help with deep cleaning of model engine

http://www.bj-model-engines.com/Demon-Clean_email_response_11-11-05.html


http://www.evapo-rust.com/

If it's one of the original 'Made in Italy' one's Mitch, treasure it cos they are cracking engines.
If it looks like rust it'll be just that, where it's been run then left with all the nasties
sucking water from the atmosphere and fuel into engine.
Before resurecting my OS55AX and putting it in our club trainer I left mine sitting around
in our office kitchenette (nice moist atmosphere with Kettle permanently on) for over 2 years,
when I re employed (without a strip DOH) it it needed a rebuild fairly quickly.
Whilst stripping it to replace the wrecked bits I was amazed to see rust on all the non contact surfaces.
Don't laugh I made an 'ultra sonic' (ha) jewellery type cleaner out of an aerosol tin cap, some
washing powder liquid (Aeriel I think) and my missus's vibro exercise plate machine.
Put the bits in a cap or tupperware tub or whatever turn vibro dodah on full speed and hold it
against plate for five mins.
Important don't place plastic or painted bits in, cos they won't be remain painted for long.
Then clean off and get your car paint colour restoring compound, soft cloth and elbow grease working
it'll come up like new.
Probably


Below are some b4 and afta shots of the last one done as above

Both good suggestions Mitch. The Evapo rust product is pricey but, works wonders in my experience. It lasts a while and is reuseable. You can find it locally in an auto parts store. I get mine at Auto Zone.

Most surface rust will just come off with some soaking and light scrubbing. If it's deeper get the Evapo Rust and do what John Boy said. Or just soak if you don't have a vibrating thingy.

thanks guys for the suggestions, how do i get the prop drive plate off of the drive shaft that way i can get the shaft out and clean it

On occasion I use some stuff called Rust Bomb, made by Conklin. They guys in the chassis shop at work turned me onto the stuff. Good for soaking and a bit more powerful than PB Blaster,,,very thin solvent that creeps and wicks in very quickly.

That drive plate is probably really locked on there Mitch,,find yourself a exploded view of that motor, to see what you have to deal with.

1000 grit sandpaper and a bit of after run oil on the paper to clean up your crank, once it is out.

PV Pilot wrote:On occasion I use some stuff called Rust Bomb, made by Conklin. They guys in the chassis shop at work turned me onto the stuff. Good for soaking and a bit more powerful than PB Blaster,,,very thin solvent that creeps and wicks in very quickly.

That drive plate is probably really locked on there Mitch,,find yourself a exploded view of that motor, to see what you have to deal with.

1000 grit sandpaper and a bit of after run oil on the paper to clean up your crank, once it is out.

thanks, in my luck the motor came with a spare back plate, top of the origonal box that it came in and the instructions with a exploded view of the motor... now just to find the blasted instructions

Check out this link.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/tech-tips/55/

thanks for that link, do you guys think the old anti-freeze in a crockpot trick will work?
also i cant find the instruction manual for this engine, does anyone have a exploded view of this engine they can post in this topic?

never mind, i found a exploded view drawing of the engine on super tigre's website, here it is
http://www.supertigre.com/parts/parts.pdf

It's supost to. I use Demon clean on anything not painted and it works great. Evap O Rust for rust.

jsesere wrote:It's supost to. I use Demon clean on anything not painted and it works great. Evap O Rust for rust.

cool, but how might i get the prop drive plate off of the drive shaft? is there a special tool that i need?

From your diagram Mitch, it looks like you have a tapered drive plate collet.

In order outside to inside, I see a prop drive nut, outer plate, inner plate and that tapered collet. If there is a overlapping stacking of the washers and spacers behind that, it impossible to tell from here or diagram.

The best, proper way to remove the drive plate off of that collet is with a mini 3 or 4 jaw gear puller. I would imagine you dont have one of those or have easy access to one, so you can carefully take two screwdrivers wrapped in some sort of protection, stick them between the plate and case and twist evenly, try not to bear down on the front bearing inner race(next to crankshaft), or that small spacer that the diagram shown. Throw a bit of heat on that drive plate and then get your screwdrivers in there and twist carefully and evenly using good jodgement. You might get somewhat lucky and it will pop right off as soon as you apply pressure,,,and then,, you might have to be a bit more patient with it. Heat, then pressure,, a bit more heat,,more pressure,,working it off the collet.

Edit: you insert the screwdrivers in behind the plate so they are opposing each other, and then twist with each hand applying opposing force,,you follow?? You will have to secure the engine case somehow, so it doesent move when you twist. work the screwdrivers around the plate using that method and it should pop free.

PV Pilot wrote:From your diagram Mitch, it looks like you have a tapered drive plate collet.

In order outside to inside, I see a prop drive nut, outer plate, inner plate and that tapered collet. If there is a overlapping stacking of the washers and spacers behind that, it impossible to tell from here or diagram.

The best, proper way to remove the drive plate off of that collet is with a mini 3 or 4 jaw gear puller. I would imagine you dont have one of those or have easy access to one, so you can carefully take two screwdrivers wrapped in some sort of protection, stick them between the plate and case and twist evenly, try not to bear down on the front bearing inner race(next to crankshaft), or that small spacer that the diagram shown. Throw a bit of heat on that drive plate and then get your screwdrivers in there and twist carefully and evenly using good jodgement. You might get somewhat lucky and it will pop right off as soon as you apply pressure,,,and then,, you might have to be a bit more patient with it. Heat, then pressure,, a bit more heat,,more pressure,,working it off the collet.

thanks for the input, i do want to try the crock pot trick. Will it still do its job if i dont take the crank shaft out of the crankcase

As far as cleaning up, I have never used the crock pot trick Mitch. I can get them clean enough without that whole setup.

I edited my above post on removing the drive plate.

PV Pilot wrote:As far as cleaning up, I have never used the crock pot trick Mitch. I can get them clean enough without that whole setup.

I edited my above post on removing the drive plate.

ok i re-read that edit in your first post. I might try the screw driver trick later today, thanks for the input

I have rebuilt many ST engines and some you need to heat engine in oven and carefully tap crank out. I doublr nut end of shaft and with wood block tap end of crank. It should start to move. I use soft block of wood at backplate as not to hurt case. Sounds like you could have bad bearings quite common with RC engines. Many RC use RC fuel all non castor and bearings rust very easy. Engine folks use very cheap low grade bearings. If china made worse yet.

dankar04 wrote:I have rebuilt many ST engines and some you need to heat engine in oven and carefully tap crank out. I doublr nut end of shaft and with wood block tap end of crank. It should start to move. I use soft block of wood at backplate as not to hurt case. Sounds like you could have bad bearings quite common with RC engines. Many RC use RC fuel all non castor and bearings rust very easy. Engine folks use very cheap low grade bearings. If china made worse yet.

i hope the bearings are still good, the motor turns over without any roughness

Bearing are cheap and easy to replace if needed. If they have orange haze on them..guess what? they are rusted. If no orange then good to go. Rust never sleeps !!

dankar04 wrote:Bearing are cheap and easy to replace if needed. If they have orange haze on them..guess what? they are rusted. If no orange then good to go. Rust never sleeps !!

i hope theres no orange haze, i just dont want to take it apart all the way bearings can be very frustrating to replace.

http://coxengineforum.forumakers.com/t1797-inspecting-crankcases-what-are-the-thresholds

It goes into great Detail of best cleaning methods.

The good stuff "Ideally you want an ultrasonic parts bath with TC (thermal control) Don't even thing about using a crock pot that's only for yummy production!
P.S spend more than $50 on a ultrasonic bath BTW the others you will buy are not real ultrasonic baths they are BS and they will break and are just an electro motor with a vibrator Not real ultrasonic THIS one really is real. P.SS I have real experience with buying some BS http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html is exactly what I have its AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!

you might be tempted to buy something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultrasonic-Ultravibra-Wave-EyeGlasses-Jewelry-Coins-Watch-Washing-Cleaner-Washer-/160760423948?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256e11660c DONT DO IT ITS JUNK