Building an Ohlsson & Rice test mount

Seeing that makes one wonder. If it does not fit a commercial test mount, how does one mount it to a plane????

I have two test stands, one being a Tatone and the other a EZ-Just. The O&R's fit both. Neither of these stands were offered until 20 years later. The O&R protrudes a fair amount from the bottom of it's lugs. K&B essentially did the same with their early Torpedo's. In 1948 Duke Fox offered the sand cast Fox .35. The same year the glow plug was offered. He made the lug spacing, length and width the same as the O&R. He did this for a specific reason and it pretty much worked. You now have a engine with twice the power, no batteries, coils, condenser to haul around. This was reason enough not to buy the O&R engines and directly swap his units into.

Most planes that utilized O&R's used full bodies to facilitate the electronics and battery case. The front was generally wide allowing the case to hang down unseen with the cylinder sticking up. These are well before my time but they don't offer much power. Whenever I've seen them in use, it's always been a timid flyer such as a freeflight. model.

Use the hottest plug you have. These engines need lots of oil, oil = HOT. If you have a 6 pitch prop similar to what you have it will keep a better load on the engine. These don't generally like high rpm's.

The Arden plug you show in the pic ( Big ball top) is the period correct plug and is a good choice if it lights.

Running a O&R on 5-10% nitro is highly recommended. I don't putz with FAI  no nitro fuel, my engines have too low of compression to make that fuel work. Unless your Traxxas fuel has oil added to it, I wouldn't recommend running the O&R on it. The O&R needs 25-29% all castor fuel. The O&R has a needle bearing thrust washer in  it's bottom end that will probably not tolerate low oil content fuels.

           The only O&R's that I've ever witnessed blow their tops was the .60. The cylinders are spot welded on and when they let go, the just blows off of the top.

If you back flip the prop, you absolutely can't get hit in the finger. Most engines start easier this way and it's the only way to start a flooded engine.

Hello Bob , see your having some O&R Fun , after all the trouble to get it turning over and the cleaning involved I can't believe you didn't do this >> (In defense of it, I haven't even removed the needle to wipe it off or clean the spray bar. Guess I will do that,)) I think it will run after a good cleaning of the holes ... Good luck and bee careful with that noise maker