Here we go again... another Lawn-Boy

Wouldn't hurt to have them on standby , If there was a lot of the contact surface left then it will last awhile as long as the moisture is kept to a minimal and good seal at the cover

I just got done with the first cut of the year. I used the old 1972 model. I put some 16:1 in it, hammered the primer a number of times, and it started right up! Acted like I had only put it away last week, rather than several months ago.

It's sOoOo nice when you take the old mower out for the first use of the season.. and it starts right up! Do you use a "fogger" product? (Stabil makes one; sprays into the spark plug hole) I've never used one.. but wonder if they make that much of a difference. Maybe it's a good treatment for seasonal engines that are subject to corrosive environments.. such as the sea coast.. or very long-term storage.

I never drain the fuel tanks in my 4-stroke machines.. but I use a product by Starbrite.. called "Startron" in my fuel all the time. It's marketed as an "Ethanol treatment.. rather than a stabilizer.. although StarBrite claims that their Startron will keep fuel fresh for 2 years. They also claim that it will "rejuvenate" old fuel.. I never needed to test that statement.. but my engines always started after 4-6 months in storage.

This was (is) my standard 2.5 gallon 4-stroke fuel formula..



I no longer use the lead-substitute since retiring the 1968 Simplicity Snowbuster 724 snowthrower.

I adopted a "FREE" lawn tractor from a neighbor a few weeks ago. A Husqvarna LTH1342K... circa 2000......2..5? Has a Kohler 13HP Command engine with carburetor removed and new replacement one in a box...

I started my riding lawn mowers up mid winter to keep the gas flowing through the lines. They all started right up this Spring. Batterys are my problem. I fret about the oils I use, my son keeps telling me -Zinc, zinc, zinc. But I continue with off the shelf lubes in the 10W 40 range from Walmart. I just read a review about their house brand. Not bad.

roddie wrote:Do you use a "fogger" product? (Stabil makes one; sprays into the spark plug hole) I've never used one.. but wonder if they make that much of a difference. Maybe it's a good treatment for seasonal engines that are subject to corrosive environments.. such as the sea coast.. or very long-term storage.

I never drain the fuel tanks in my 4-stroke machines.. but I use a product by Starbrite.. called "Startron" in my fuel all the time. It's marketed as an "Ethanol treatment.. rather than a stabilizer.. although StarBrite claims that their Startron will keep fuel fresh for 2 years. They also claim that it will "rejuvenate" old fuel.. I never needed to test that statement.. but my engines always started after 4-6 months in storage.

I add several ounces of Sea Foam to my cans of gasoline. I don't bother to drain the gas tanks or drain the float bowls before putting the equipment away. I've actually had more problems with dried sediment from the residue that needed to be cleaned out of the carb when doing that. For my generators, I pull those out every other week (or at least once a month) throughout the year and run them for several minutes. That keeps fresh gas in the carbs.

They sell 93 octane ethanol free gas here at some stations, sold for small engines, motorcycles, recreational equipment, and classic cars, but I've been using regular 87 octane (10% ethanol) that I get from Sam's Club. I've been planning on switching over to the ethanol free for the small engines, especially for use in my old equipment such as the Lawn Boys and Snow Pup, but each time I need to fill my two 5 gallon cans, I end up on auto-pilot and manage to fill them up at Sam's Club with regular gas. I should probably enjoy the ethanol free gas before they ban it, as I suspect they will at some point.

Here's some info. on the Startron. It's quite the economical choice for treating fuel for small gasoline engines.
Starbrite Startron

rsv1cox wrote:I started my riding lawn mowers up mid winter to keep the gas flowing through the lines. They all started right up this Spring. Batterys are my problem. I fret about the oils I use, my son keeps telling me -Zinc, zinc, zinc. But I continue with off the shelf lubes in the 10W 40 range from Walmart. I just read a review about their house brand. Not bad.

Bob, Isn’t your mower a Cub Cadet?…. What oil did you settle on?…. Where do get filters?….Dad got a new one and I bought the old one….42”…..About 400 hrs on it, Needs a little maintenance and minor repairs but still works great…

Yes, 60" cut. Got it last year at Lowes. I doubt if I have 10 hours on it yet and haven't change the oil. Filters etc. available at Lowes.

Thanks Bob, We have a Lowes next town over, Will check next time I go

rsv1cox wrote:Yes, 60" cut.  Got it last year at Lowes.  I doubt if I have 10 hours on it yet and haven't change the oil.  Filters etc. available at Lowes.

Our control line club bought a Cub Cadet zero turn last month. It takes a grand total of six minutes to cut a circle. With three grass circles, it's a breeze to cut the grass versus when using a lawn tractor. But, the Lowe's around here don't carry Cub Cadet. Atwood's does, though they don't do a 10% military discount like Lowe's.

I actually spent about 45m minutes sitting in the different zero turn mowers out in front of the local Lowe's this afternoon. I really want one after using the club's Cub Cadet, but have a hard time justifying the price. I really want a welded deck rather than a stamped deck. I have a 1/2 acre lot to mow right now, but after I finish building my hangar there will only be 1/5 of an acre to mow. Hard to justify a $3,750 mower for such a small area. But they are so much more comfortable, maneuverable, and just plain fun compared to a garden tractor.

The Hero Mark

Admin wrote:

I just got done with the first cut of the year. I used the old 1972 model. I put some 16:1 in it, hammered the primer a number of times, and it started right up! Acted like I had only put it away last week, rather than several months ago.

That’s typical for a lawn boy. Mine was exactly the same.

batjac wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:Yes, 60" cut.  Got it last year at Lowes.  I doubt if I have 10 hours on it yet and haven't change the oil.  Filters etc. available at Lowes.

Our control line club bought a Cub Cadet zero turn last month.  It takes a grand total of six minutes to cut a circle.  With three grass circles, it's a breeze to cut the grass versus when using a lawn tractor.  But, the Lowe's around here don't carry Cub Cadet.  Atwood's does, though they don't do a 10% military discount like Lowe's.  

I actually spent about 45m minutes sitting in the different zero turn mowers out in front of the local Lowe's this afternoon.  I really want one after using the club's Cub Cadet, but have a hard time justifying the price.  I really want a welded deck rather than a stamped deck.  I have a 1/2 acre lot to mow right now, but after I finish building my hangar there will only be 1/5 of an acre to mow.  Hard to justify a $3,750 mower for such a small area.  But they are so much more comfortable, maneuverable, and just plain fun compared to a garden tractor.

The Hero Mark

I didn't get the military discount, they said that it did not apply to mowers and all terrain vehicles. But yes, with 5 + acres to mow, three blades, and 60" cut it is a breeze. It also cuts much more evenly than my John Deere 54" zero turn. Misjudged my time on the hour meter. It had 13 hours instead of the 10 I estimated yesterday. Got 15+ on it now.

I was using the 1978-79 model 7025 the other day to pick up leaves when it suddenly went wide open. Uh oh, I've been there before. It didn't react to the speed lever being moved (which changes the governor spring tension). I shut it off before it threw it's rod and wheeled it back to the patio. I pulled the air filter cover and filter, blew the vaporized fuel cloud out of the intake and sure enough, the throttle plate was gone. Fortunately not actually gone, just laying up against the reed. The plastic air vane broke in the same way a little over 10 years ago.


Ignore all the dirt.








Unfortunately, this carb is very close to being condemned. In addition to hairline cracks all over it, the air vane governor holes are ovaled out.





So...spend $13 for a new air vane, expecting it'll probably eat that one too in several years? Or mothball it and keep a watch for a replacement carb?

If I was a machinist, I could make a sleeve bearing and a cup for the air vane stem...but I'm not. Not sure if any fuel resistant epoxies will adhere to this plastic either.

This mower has A LOT of hours on it, every time I need to throw more money at it, I stop and think about it for awhile.

Fortunately not actually gone, just laying up against the reed.

Is this like a Cox Beryllium Copper reed Jacob?

Yes, leaf season. I mulch mine up too then let nature take it's course. They are gone by Spring. I had a bagger on my John Deere. Too much trouble so I never use it.

The reeds are a type of steel. The throttle plate is brass.


I also need to replace the exhaust gasket on this mower. The "nuclear" wheels need to be drilled and have bushings installed in them too, getting a bit wobbly.

Very high hour machine.

You have a part number for the air vane - might have one.

The air vane is part #609630.