.09 Piston and Cylinder Wear

for used engine wit no comprestion to run fine like qeen bee no new part try nikel coin in plain vinegar wit litle salt cars batry acid 12v charger now place 1coin to positive and 1coin neg side in electrolisis solution let sit power on charger 6amp max for 20 min change coin to neg to pos now moove coin watch for coper if coin is not plain nikel y use magnetik nikel coin and copronikel but coin wil work if color turn blu too mutch coper try not disolve too mutch of plated coin use only coper plated coin try with magnet to test coin wen color is green yelow is redy for plating cleen part rince wit distiled water fix to aligator clip crome plated to neg side now old coin discard use silver coin now or wat ever made silver fit in de pot fix wit clip don toutch solution with positive clip in solution just silver part move part dont stop for 5 min stop now part has just a film nikel under black residu use fine steelwool wit blue soop dont friction mutch genle go by 5 minut a time cylinder wil change color piston top wil get plated now crome top piston wil look litle black 2 3 first shot try fit piston in cylinder evry 5 minut tret no nead first tyme 4 to 5 bath wil bring piston like new now reset piston con rod after wel polish watch you tube wil explain bether it worked for my jerobee engines sufer from sand ingestion in cylinder wil get pic nex tyme it hapen

Could you supply a link to that Youtube video? I'm fascinated and have several Arden .099s that might benefit from such a process.

davidll1984 wrote:for used engine wit no comprestion to run fine like qeen bee no new part try nikel coin in plain vinegar wit litle salt cars batry acid 12v charger now place 1coin to positive and 1coin neg side in electrolisis solution let sit power on charger 6amp max for 20 min change coin to neg to pos now moove coin watch for coper if coin is not plain nikel y use magnetik nikel coin and copronikel but coin wil work if color turn blu too mutch coper try not disolve too mutch of plated coin use only coper plated coin try with magnet to test coin  wen color is green yelow is redy for plating cleen part rince wit distiled water fix to aligator clip crome plated to neg side now old coin discard use silver coin now or wat ever made silver fit in de pot fix wit clip don toutch solution with positive clip in solution just silver part move part dont stop for 5 min stop now part has just a film nikel under black residu use fine steelwool wit blue soop dont friction mutch genle go by 5 minut a time cylinder wil change color piston top wil get plated now crome top piston wil look litle black 2 3 first shot try fit piston in cylinder evry 5 minut tret no nead first tyme 4 to 5 bath wil bring piston like new now reset piston con rod after wel polish watch you tube wil explain bether it worked for my jerobee engines sufer from sand ingestion in cylinder wil get pic nex tyme it hapen

A little hard to follow, but good idea to plate the cylinder. I have been considering a couple OS LA cylinders that have peeled. Some videos that I watched used solder inside the bore so it was centred. A bit over my pay scale. I am sure it is fairly simple to do with good clean parts. An old flying buddy used a car battery for power. I did not know about using a coin for the electrode.

This sounds similar to repairing a Mccoy .35 piston using a hammer. While it might work, it's going to be short lived. I know someone that does cylinder chroming and the short brief tutorial above is crude at best. I suppose if your a caveman it works because even they can do it or so they say. The process needs to be done correctly in order to not peel and have the cylinder round. The honing equipment required is extremely expensive and not something a modeler would own.

Maybe the hammer to a McCoy is a good thing? Here is a tutorial that seems good to me. https://www.nclra.org/TechTopics/WayneTrivin/Chroming.html A bit involved. Then there are the car guys with the "pinch". That would not work on the TD with the fins. The neighbor that did the chroming with the 12V battery had good results. Did lots of old Supertiger G .15s for Goodyear racing. He made laps for each size bore. Not really hones.

yes aspeed right no nead to hones cylinder piston cylinder wil need micro polishing wit such as mother pure polish no ken cook aloy not wat y talk no McCOY PISTON JUST COX OR ENY CROME METAL ONE now yes hav explained fast simple but wen u get a chance searche for info befor seying it peal of use crome is asardous wy not use just nikel metal and my method is for hoo had mecanique skils bieng french is hard to explain just get look aspeed tech topic is closse to my method cylinder in previous elecrolisis solution is made y suggest coin for evry one can try at home wen plating cylinder stainles steel rod is used on plus side for piston neg side never place a part on plus u can use coin during it just keap solution saturation nikel electrolise is good for ever multiple tyme wit same stuf it worked for me used a ferous nikel from 20 euro worth like 1 us

no hamer need just 5 minute a tyme dont try to build up mutch materiel just fil up crack scar ling in piston and cylinder if u aving piston spare use it for polishing in cylinder jut lock with reset tool and patiance never go piston head in first. upside down in cylinder go slow just wit hand after look fine try real piston in pusch him down in place if it bind uf keap polishing piston it self just nead fine steel wool and litle hand polish

David I think I understand what you are trying to say. I'm retired from the mining industry. We used electrolyte plating all the time in processing of precious metals. but with your language I'm still having a little bit of a hard time understanding what your trying to say. We always nickel plated over steel or Iron before we gold plated. We used to say the plating is only as good as what's under it. same way with chrome. let me put it this way if it doesn't have a good nickel plate under it, it won't last long the chrome will peel up/off..
Basswood

He's describing this process. https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Quality-and-safe-Nickel-Plating/

Looking into it, it will work and give a layer of nickel that's a bit harder than the base steel. Proper technical nickel plating is at least twice as hard. Would be fun to try as there are no nasty chemicals. I'm certain that cleanliness of the part will determine the outcome, and if the bore has scratches it would need refinishing prior.

I bought a few MK1 Rossi .15s that were modified a fair bit. A couple had some dimples inside to hold the oil, I presume. They were not ABC yet at that time. It looked like they were put in by the monokote dimpler tool, although it would never fit inside. Some guys would plate the piston instead of the liner. I don't know anyone personally that did this but supped it could work for a while on a cast piston. I think the liner would be best, especially on the TD which has a soft liner and hard piston already. David, have you tried Google Translate? I have read a few languages that translate fairly well. Russian does not work well, but German and French are OK.

using a xbox is imposible to get google translate wit my girl friend y pad y can just dont no how to use corect way and dont have mutch time for post just use my litle word like kids lol it is simple worked fo me enyting good take its time do same lernig method for nikel plate as lerning new stuf u dont fly first time so take time beleve me is worth if som 1 try just post result here wil take pic of piston and cylinder wen get a chance to me use english is hard belive me. like to schare wit al of you cox is part of my life wil bee for ever

y wil doo a plating job on qeen bee and tee dee .049 part below pic befor after tee dee is al redy plated wil just do it 1 , 5minute on that one se holow mark from previous reset after plating it as run last sumer couple time over heat

Looks OK. Did you plate both, piston and cylinder? Or just the cylinder.

yes both wil also plate crank chaft coper first and nikel very thin layer to help les friction and wear wil plate piston second time and cylinder wit coper on out side for gold look it can start wit starter but run weak wil try build more comprestion see if it can be bether

I don't think both the piston and cylinder should be plated. If surfaces are the same material/hardness, they will exchange with friction. Maybe just the inside of the cylinder is best because it is softest.

aspeed is right y see line on piston cose by materiel exchange after run just 2 time not mutch comprestion recovery is sur bether not yet finish wil atempt new materiel same way wil try heat electrolise to bether chemical bond. back wit result soon