Cars-Stars 2019 "Rodd-E-Liminator"

roddie wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:Tether positioning is important roddie as I found out with my Roy Cox creation.  It has to be right to maintain a proper circle, to little toe in and it's coming toward the pivot, to much and you scuff tires.  Although much depends upon how you release it.

Probably all tied up in higher math, but I found mine through trial and error. I would try a 15' line and work outwards.

I'm keeping an eye-out for a barbell-weight (20#??) to serve as an anchor for a tether. A wooden-dowel/post would then be screwed to a plywood plate.. and the barbell-weight placed "over" the post. From there, I'll work-out a simple "arm" to fit around the post.. for the tether-line to connect to.

Thank you for believing in my imaginative creations..!

Roddie, keep an eyeout for that barbell weight, but also keep a watchful eye out for discarded floor lamps. They usually have a heavy weight in the base, and the upright pole just threads off, and they have a electric insulated tube for the lamp wire which can be made to hold the thether string or wire on a washer and nut.

Marleysky wrote:

Roddie, keep an eyeout for that barbell weight, but also keep a watchful eye out for discarded floor lamps. They usually have a heavy weight in the base, and the upright pole just threads off, and they have a electric insulated tube for the lamp wire which can be made to hold the thether string or wire on a washer and nut.

Mark Diedrichs wrote:Mr. Roddie, I think you are very innovative. Just putting this out here...This stuff called Walthers Goo, Might help. Once it sticks it sticks. Works great for me! All the best, Mark

roddie wrote:I'd been thinking about how-to build a tether-post for this model. The model weighs 5.6oz. I decided on a 5gal. pail weighted with dirt/gravel. A snap-on pail-lid is center-drilled for a 1" dia. wooden dowel-post. The post has provisions for both; anchoring it in the pail.. and also to contain the tether from slipping-off the top.

Here's a preliminary-photo..



The pail is out in the driveway.. (one that had a tomato-plant in it last Summer..) My plan is to use some old .018" stranded SS control-line for the tether.

Oldenginerod wrote:

For what it's worth Roddie,    I'd suggest something different from what you're proposing. The tether connection is way too high and as centrifugal force increases it will cause the car to lift, making it lose drive.  The closer to the ground the tether is the better.  Because your car is so light it won't take much to break traction.  The best scenario would be to have the pivot point lower than your bridle, causing downforce to increase as centrifugal force increases, although in your configuration that's not possible.  You may need to add ballast to your car.

Cribbs74 wrote:It started out well. Always keep kit boxes away from the circle!

Looking forward to a video.

getback wrote:Shoot man i was just Happy to see you out there having FUN !! Looked like it was going to haul some butt and take NO passengers Bee watching for the next run !!

aspeed wrote:Is the bridle supposed to be at or slightly behind the C of G like a plane, or does that not matter?  I am wondering for mine too... some day.  I tried getting it to run last week but ... lots of luck, all of it bad.