$50 box of engines arrived

Going to have to fire up the crock pot with the antifreeze in it. I may even change it out as it looks like tar but still works.

It will keep me busy for a while getting them cleaned up. May not fix them all as some are basically parts engines.

What a good purchase you have made ....
Tell me you have a picture of the Cox Pee Wee .020 r / c ?, I like that engine .... I'll appreciate if you share a friend photo!

Nice haul indeed

I would have jumped on it for the Cox stuff alone. McCoys, WenMacs and others are a very nice bonus.

That'll keep you busy for a few hours

Indeed some treasures in that lot. Once cleaned up and you're looking to decide what to fire up, I'd suggest you give the .28 Sportster a run if you're not familiar with them. If it's anything like mine it will satisfy with a very nice, smooooth & quiet run, especially if you have the original muffler. I'm not sure about longevity but they sure do run nice, & easy to tune. Use a bigger prop than you'd normally use on a .28. They say treat them like a four stroke regarding prop, rpm and power output.

I'm curious about the Pee Wee "Product engine".

Rod.

That's a great deal! Congratulations Jason!

Jason_WI wrote:Going to have to fire up the crock pot with the antifreeze in it. I may even change it out as it looks like tar but still works.

It will keep me busy for a while getting them cleaned up. May not fix them all as some are basically parts engines.

I boiled a bunch yesterday Jason, engines that my son found for me at some antique store. Occasionally I will strain the A/F through a cloth for reuse. Doesn't seem to affect it's cleaning abilities.

It was about 22 degrees in the garage when I did it. I boiled them for about 6 hours and the A/F did not come to a rolling boil as usual. Still seemed to do a good job.

I heat Simple green in a small container in the microwave then dunk the engines/parts coming from the pot into it, (sizzle/sizzle) brush and then into another pot of hot clean water, dry, and blow out with compressed air then spray with Remoil until I can reassemble them. Not so funny, the clean water dropped onto the workbench quickly froze as did my fingers. This just gets the first layer off, detailing to follow.



Not the quantity or quality of your stash. I used to enjoy getting a lot of engines like that. Used to... Now it's just work. I defer to your greater collecting and enthusiast skills.

Bob

A couple of questions for you Bob, if I may.

Your picture shows a red Enya head- do you clean these anodized parts in anti freeze as well? I've always be scared to try it.

I see a K&B (Aurora) Tornado .049, but I only see the tank back, not the main body. Do you have the reed valve assembly? If so, can you get some close shots of it and offer me a complete description please?

Rod.

Oldenginerod wrote:A couple of questions for you Bob, if I may.

Your picture shows a red Enya head- do you clean these anodized parts in anti freeze as well?  I've always be scared to try it.

I see a K&B (Aurora) Tornado .049, but I only see the tank back, not the main body.  Do you have the reed valve assembly?  If so, can you get some close shots of it and offer me a complete description please?

Rod.

I did remove the head on the Enya before boiling Rod because in the past I found that an A/F boil will lighten the anodizing considerably. Got it cleaned up good enough to run, still need a needle but I think I have a spare.

I'm missing the tank and the RVA on the Aurora. Checking my parts to see if I have a replacement but I don't think so.

With a little finagling a babe bee tank will fit on the Aurora. I’ve done it.

Here is a close up of the Cox engines in the lot. The Pee Wee with the silver tank is a special tank type. The Cox Engine handbook states it never went into production but it possible some escaped from the factory. The other Pee Wee is a GTO Camero engine from the .020 car as it has the heavy crank.

Cool Deal!! ,, if ya don't know that boil will remove the red from them RED heads

Yep paint and antifreeze don’t play nice together. The Torpedo Green head would also be suspect but its so caked with hard castor the only way to remove it is with a soak in antifreeze. I always used low on my crock pot. Never boiled.

The McCoys may get sold before a soak. Not sure there is much value in them other than the prop driver and NVA. Seems like the McCoys are always missing the prop drivers. The Testors are always missing the needles.

That Sportsman would make a good candidate for a travelling engine.

Come to think of it, it’s as easy to use as a Medallion. Perhaps a little trickier to mount.

I would make a good engine. The engine has some tooling marks but nothing that would hinder performance. The glow head is buggered up a bit.

I have a lot of experience with the K&B Sporster .28. I was playing with this engine early on prior to it's new life offered by Mecoa. I was strictly using this engine for control line use. I discovered early on that a Fox .19 or .25 BB venturi was a direct swap into this engine. I discovered this engine when my son was graduating to the larger stuff. We first had a OS.30 MAX-S which after close to 420 flights we essentially wore it out. This engine lived a hard life due to many crashes so it was no surprise to me after it gave up it's life. You can only slam a engine into the ground so many times. Prior to moving up to the .40 size planes, I was looking for a replacement engine. The .28 fit the bill and as Rod mentions, it's not a screamer but rather a torque engine. I have found this engine to perform wonderfully with large props like 11"-4 pitch props. I had 2 very good runners which I passed onto a fellow CEF member who has found them to work out quite nicely for the same purpose as I had. I kept one which is on a kit built Primary Force. The K&B Sporster series was way ahead of it's time using a high grade of silicon aluminum for the case, the piston has no sleeve but runs in the case. They like castor oil but I have successfully used 50/50 blends of castor synthetic in the engine. You don't want to run these at high rpm's as they don't tend to take a good setting nor do they prefer to do it. They're very smooth as mentioned and quite reliable, a bit heavier than engines of this size but the power they offer quickly makes up for that. Certainly a engine that deserves a lot of credit but never achieved it. Ken

The sportsman .15 cleaned up pretty good. Same glow head just straightened out the fins a bit. Reset the piston and should be good to go.

Jason_WI wrote:The sportsman .15 cleaned up pretty good. Same glow head just straightened out the fins a bit. Reset the piston and should be good to go.

Beautiful cleaning job Jason! I like how is that engine!

The pee wee cleaned up nice. New crank and drive plate. New gaskets and pickup tube.

Jason_WI wrote:

The pee wee cleaned up nice. New crank and drive plate. New gaskets and pickup tube.

another jewel to enjoy friend!

Jason_WI wrote:
The McCoys may get sold before a soak. Not sure there is much value in them other than the prop driver and NVA. Seems like the McCoys are always missing the prop drivers. The Testors are always missing the needles.

Yes, I have noticed that too, I don't know what people are doing to the needles...

They are fairly easy to make in a lathe though, as they use a regular 1-72 thread. An adjustable die would have been good have though, as I would have liked to have a little more snug fit in threads, but it works fine;

Jason_WI wrote:
The pee wee cleaned up nice. New crank and drive plate. New gaskets and pickup tube.

Is that an amalgam of the two Pee Wees in a previous shot?  Your crankcase is different.

I have to put the car engine pee wee together yet. The tank and cylinder were swapped on the engines when I received them in. Only thing new is a crankshaft and drive hub in the cleaned up R/C pee wee.

Enjoying your thread Jason. Deal of the century!!!!

How are you cleaning the Cox engines?  I have a .020 and a .010 part of the collection that my son bought for me.  They are in similar condition and I don't want to boil them in A/F.  Any hints?



Bob