shop light-std. fl. 40W

roddie Mon Oct 09, 2017 2:26 pm

The fluorescent fixture over my workbench is your run of the mill twin-tube 4-foot job. Only one tube lights.. The other tube will light if I rotate it "just right"... Rolling Eyes

... but it never stays lit. I've had it for years.. and it's never worked right. It was a "cheapie"...... Laughing

but I figured that shouldn't matter. Apparently it does..

I believe that the problem lies in the socket-contacts. Is there a way to "tweak" them for improved continuity?

To quote Col. Frank Slade.. "I'm in the dark here..."

crankbndr Mon Oct 09, 2017 3:46 pm

Follow these instructions to the letter!!
1 pour a cup of water on the floor
2 take of shoes and socks
3 turn on light
4 take a screwdriver and carefully probe the terminals
5 when your done shaking go get a new shop light

fredvon4 Mon Oct 09, 2017 3:55 pm

Crank bender I am still giggling!

Roddie

Save the few bucks needed...wally world NEW LED 4' shop lites are cheaper and cheaper by the week

Highly recommended to move to LED!

My problem is shop(S) all have many long 2 tube 8' fixtures... each LED replacement tube is currently $59....down from $89 but still a big wad of cash for my 16 total tubes

dckrsn Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:28 pm

Roddie, just for the hell of it, check the ground(sounds familiar?).
For some reason, the old t-12 bulb fixtures act a little funny without it.
Usually the ballast grounds itself to the pan, and the cord, bx, or whatever
you use for power, grounds the pan. Maybe it shields the ballast. Had the
same problem with an 8' t-12 high output pan, and grounding took care of it.
As far as I know, the new t-8 hi efficiency pans don't rely on the ground.
Good luck.
Bob
You kill me, Crank!

roddie Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:32 pm

fredvon4 wrote:Roddie

Save the few bucks needed...wally world NEW LED 4' shop lites are cheaper and cheaper by the week

Highly recommended to move to LED!

Yes.. those are really nice.. My previous employer bought a few to mount under the shelves over our benches.. Then they decided to reduce clutter.. and removed the shelves and lamps.. Rolling Eyes

A fellow employee asked what they were going to do with them.. and they said; "If you want them just take them.." So.. he got them. Mad

roddie Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:49 pm

crankbndr wrote:Follow these instructions to the letter!!
1 pour a cup of water on the floor
2 take of shoes and socks
3 turn on light
4 take a screwdriver and carefully probe the terminals
5 when your done shaking go get a new shop light

The way things are going lately Doug.. that might be a good idea. Laughing

Step #4 should be performed with a more "conductive" tool though. Something like a "pick" that you use to dig walnuts out of their shell. Actually... I have plenty of piano-wire scraps handy!

crankbndr Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:51 pm

fredvon4 wrote:Crank bender I am still giggling!

Roddie

Save the few bucks needed...wally world NEW LED 4' shop lites are cheaper and cheaper by the week

Highly recommended to move to LED!

My problem is shop(S) all have many long 2 tube 8' fixtures... each LED replacement tube is currently $59....down from $89 but still a big wad of cash for my 16 total tubes

Interesting, I didn't know you could get LED tubes, they need no ballast also. Do they last long time like other LEDs. I replaced all my outdoor flood lighting with LED (10 bulbs) and they do the job, harsh bright light and claim 20 year life, we will see. They are plastic and don't think plastic will last that long.

crankbndr Mon Oct 09, 2017 5:07 pm

roddie wrote:
crankbndr wrote:Follow these instructions to the letter!!
1 pour a cup of water on the floor
2 take of shoes and socks
3 turn on light
4 take a screwdriver and carefully probe the terminals
5 when your done shaking go get a new shop light

The way things are going lately Doug.. that might be a good idea. Step #4 should be performed with a more "conductive" tool though. Something like a "pick" that you use to dig walnuts out of their shell. Actually... I have plenty of piano-wire scraps handy!

I was just funnin with ya, I’ve had one too pain pills today.

roddie Mon Oct 09, 2017 5:24 pm

dckrsn wrote:Roddie, just for the hell of it, check the ground(sounds familiar?).
For some reason, the old t-12 bulb fixtures act a little funny without it.
Usually the ballast grounds itself to the pan, and the cord, bx, or whatever
you use for power, grounds the pan. Maybe it shields the ballast. Had the
same problem with an 8' t-12 high output pan, and grounding took care of it.
As far as I know, the new t-8 hi efficiency pans don't rely on the ground.
Good luck.
Bob
You kill me, Crank!

Ground.... Huh...

you mean like coffee-grounds? Laughing

Truth be known; I don't like messing with things that I can't see.. which can kill me.. Laughing

Actually; I've re-wired table-lamps.. and replaced switches in ceiling-fans.. but that's about as brave as I get.

The fixture has a 3-wire cord.. and is plugged into a grounded receptacle. Outside of that; I wouldn't know what to look for. I do have some CRC-brand dielectric grease that I thought might help, if applied to the lamps' pins..

dckrsn Mon Oct 09, 2017 5:39 pm

roddie wrote:
The fixture has a 3-wire cord.. and is plugged into a grounded receptacle. Outside of that; I wouldn't know what to look for. I do have some CRC-brand dielectric grease that I thought might help, if applied to the lamps' pins..

Sounds like the ground is good. "Never mind"
Bob

**Cribbs74** Mon Oct 09, 2017 7:03 pm

Clean the copper contacts with some 1000 grit. Bulb pins also. If the ballast was made in China, go get a new fixture.

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shop light-std. fl. 40W

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