Cox Sopwith Camel almost ready

JPvelo wrote:Ditch the swivel part of the snap swivel, I've had them come apart on me.

Fishing swivels were all anyone used when I was young, but now most clubs won't allow their use.   Interesting that "Perfect" sold exactly the same product packaged as line connectors.

Oldenginerod wrote:

JPvelo wrote:Ditch the swivel part of the snap swivel, I've had them come apart on me.

Fishing swivels were all anyone used when I was young, but now most clubs won't allow their use.   Interesting that "Perfect" sold exactly the same product packaged as line connectors.

Those are the ones I've had break at the swivel. Discard the swivel and use the clip by itself.

Jim

JPvelo wrote:

Oldenginerod wrote:

JPvelo wrote:Ditch the swivel part of the snap swivel, I've had them come apart on me.

Fishing swivels were all anyone used when I was young, but now most clubs won't allow their use.   Interesting that "Perfect" sold exactly the same product packaged as line connectors.

Those are the ones I've had break at the swivel. Discard the swivel and use the clip by itself.

Jim

I was warned early-on to NOT USE any type of swivel for flying-lines.. but I've never tried using just the clip-part. Your "best-choice" is to source these-types of connectors.. if you can find them. The ones on the right (above the penny) are the safest.

Okay now, I got the lines made and lead outs run. I am using braided line. I am also using ss snap swivels. I flew for years using brass & steel ones with nary a failure. SS ones have never failed in salt water or fresh water and on really big fish (48" and 60#). I am placing an order for several props since mine snapped just as the little jewel was drawing fuel beyond a bit of prime. My thumb is okay. My boys thought that was hysterical. 57 can outrun and catch 8 & 9 especially when they're trying to breath, laugh and run. Will report on next effort when new props arrive.

My thumb is okay. My boys thought that was hysterical. 57 can outrun and catch 8 & 9 especially when they're trying to breath, laugh and run. Will report on next effort when new props arrive. wrote:

That's OK you know i know when that baby fires they will scatter then..

I ordered two props and some extras from Exmodels. Don't tell my wife. Will report when next attempt is made.

agbiv wrote:I ordered two props and some extras from Exmodels. Don't tell my wife. Will report when next attempt is made.

It will be good to have those extra props! Have you looked into a "stooge" for launching the model? It's an easy thing to make; having a spring-pin to engage a loop of string on the model's tail.. with a "separate-string" leading out to your handle to pull the pin and release the model. Browse the threads here for some simple-design ideas. Flying over grass is a lot safer.. and some large sheets of cardboard laid-out ahead of the airplane can serve as a runway for it's little wheels to roll for launching. Tape the seams together so it can fold-up for easy transport. These little details can make for much more successful flying-experiences"flight after flight". You'll soon find yourself re-fueling after a flight.. and getting in the air again, in no-time flat!

9 year old is first copilot. He helped make lines and lead outs. His 8 year old brother wandered off to be an unauthorized screen zombie and is now the designated "stooge". 2nd flight they swap. I'll definitely make a stooge for when I fly alone. Never have flown on pavement. The cardboard runway is a great idea.

Got two props in and will test run Thursday on day off.

So the little beast would run a bit on a prime but no sustained run! AAAAAAAAAA!!! So I took it apart and wadda ya know--a kinked fuel line. Snip snip, re-tuck and screw it back up. One prime, two flips and YEAH!!! My grin lasted till the tank ran dry. Filled it and ran through again. She's now ready to fly! Hopefully tomorrow. Will report back with update.

Good luck! Have fun with it.

Glad that you found and fixed the problem quickly! Not sure if this was discussed previously.. but the fuel-line's "pick-up" should be oriented in the "9 o'clock" position looking at the backplate. (I think that was mentioned.. but just to be sure..) If it's oriented at the "bottom" you'll run-short of fuel-feed due to the centrifugal-forces of flight which places fuel against the "outer-facing" side of the tank.

This photo (courtesy of Paul Gibeault) shows the correct fuel-line orientation for control-line flight.



His backplates are custom "racing" adaptations.. but the fuel-line orientation is the same on all three.

So the little beast was giving trouble tuning out. Then I underestimated length of runway needed. Then my pit crew has real need of additional training. They hung in there though and we had a short one lap flight--engine died. Sigh. Will tweek motor and wait for a good day without much wind. Words from Master Cox-chin while visiting the "cave of knowledge": "Always blame it on the wind!"

agbiv wrote: So the little beast was giving trouble tuning out. Then I underestimated length of runway needed. Then my pit crew has real need of additional training. They hung in there though and we had a short one lap flight--engine died. Sigh. Will tweek motor and wait for a good day without much wind. Words from Master Cox-chin while visiting the "cave of knowledge": "Always blame it on the wind!"

Shoot..... sorry to hear that you couldn't fly-out a full tank of fuel. Less wind is preferable for sure. Try to choose a relatively calm day for the next flight.. and adjust the needle a bit more "rich" (more fuel than air) to see if the engine continues to run for a few more laps around. If your mixture is "screaming-lean" when you launch.. the engine's "load" will decrease once in the air.. which can cause it to "sag" (overheat) and shut-down. This doesn't hurt it.. you just need to find the "sweet-spot" mixture for flying.. vs. tuning in the pit. As small as the Cox Sopwith Camel model is.. it's a heavy little airplane.. and will need some "dialing-in". One quarter-turn or even less on the needle can make the difference between a great-flight.. or a lack-luster one. You'll get the feel for it through a few flights of experimentation. You might need a little more smooth-runway "distance" to launch the model with the engine running "rich".. but once it's airborne.. the engine should speed-up/lean-out into it's "power-curve".. and pull the airplane through the air with more authority.. but stay "running".. until the fuel is exhausted. That's when you'll know you're in the ball-park for consecutive successful flights.. and your boys will be cheering for more!

Thanks for the insight. I was absolutely running it lean in the pit. And yes she got hot , so.. a little richness will be tried next time. I have a Cox P-40 Warhawk on the way too! Once we get the hang of it we'll go to a balsa kit--thinking of one of the Sterling or Top Flite Junior Warbirds. Then I'll get an engine. Probably a Black Widow or Golden Bee. I'll compensate for the weight forward and get the CG just aft of the leading edge.

agbiv wrote:Thanks for the insight. I was absolutely running it lean in the pit. And yes she got hot , so.. a little richness will be tried next time. I have a Cox P-40 Warhawk on the way too! Once we get the hang of it we'll go to a balsa kit--thinking of one of the Sterling or Top Flite Junior Warbirds. Then I'll get an engine. Probably a Black Widow or Golden Bee. I'll compensate for the weight forward and get the CG just aft of the leading edge.

Sounds like a GOOD plan! Although there's no denying that the Cox models have an authentic scale appearance; the balsa models fly soOoOo much better.. the difference is amazing. Repairing them after a crash is a LOT easier too. Getting the kids involved with building a flying model is a good thing. It teaches them a lot about building in general.. but also teaches some simple lessons in physics.

Please let us know how the next flights work out!