Cox Pee Wee .020 & throttle ring (homemade) and something else...

That works very well. I have the factory throttled Pee Wee but never took it out of the package to check its performance. One would think that a 7500rpm idle is a bit fast, but it would reduce prop thrust enormously, allowing a plane to land under control. Is that the 4 x 2.5 prop?

Bravo Mauricio, incrfedible response and high range 7000 to 20.000 rpm. I never run Pee wee´s up to 18.000 rpm

getback wrote:Very Good response  I see your just having fun with it too !!

Hi Eric !!, how are you? ... yes !!! I really enjoy a lot of walking and this little wonder works so well ...! The accelerator is great!

706jim wrote:That works very well. I have the factory throttled Pee Wee but never took it out of the package to check its performance. One would think that a 7500rpm idle is a bit fast, but it would reduce prop thrust enormously, allowing a plane to land under control. Is that the 4 x 2.5 prop?

Hi, actually the hoop works great and is very useful, the 7200/7500 rpm, allows you to land the model with the engine running. If you fly on a cement track, you can even land and take off again!
I fly on a lawn track so the model can not take off by itself, but it can land by reducing the engine speed perfectly.
I'm going to make a video with these tests so you can check it out.
Make several rings, some in aluminum tube and others in iron, until you achieve the ideal. Unfortunately I do not have lathe, so I do them with my drill, files and a lot of patience, but it succeeds !!
The tripolar propeller is: 3.125 x 2.5 (3-blade)

jmcalata wrote:Bravo Mauricio, incrfedible response and high range 7000 to 20.000 rpm. I never run Pee wee´s up to 18.000 rpm

Hi, how are you? I'm very happy with the result. I really want to enjoy this engine with the rim I made it.
I do not have a winch, so with my bench drill and hand with files and close, I get a lot of experience making the hoop, laying it next to the cylinder is the most complicated, I use polishing paste and a shaft that simulates the cylinder, friction Until a perfect twin is achieved. As you know, I do not speak English, so the internet translator does that work, for the doubts I put this message also in Castilian, since I feel more confident that I can transmit my comment exactly.
I take advantage to congratulate you for your beautiful collection of engines, I have seen the photos that you have placed, I always remain with the mouth open, (expression of surprise!).
I send you a hug!

Hola como estas?!, estoy muy feliz con el resultado, tengo muchas ganas de disfrutar este motor con el aro que le fabriqué.
No tengo torno, así que con mi taladro de banco y a mano mediante limas y cierras, consigo con mucha pasiencia fabricar el aro, acentarlo junto al cilindro es lo más complicado, utilizo pasta de pulir y un eje que simula ser el cilindro, genero fricción hasta que se logra un hermanado perfecto. Como sabes, yo no hablo ingles, así que el traductor de internet hace ese trabajo, por las dudas coloco este mensaje también en castellano, ya que me siento más seguro de poder transmitir exactamente mi comentario.
Aprovecho para felicitarte por tu hermosa colección de motores, he visto las fotos que has colocado, quedo siempre con la boca abierta, (expresión de sorpresa!).
Te mando un abrazo!

These are two Cox Pee Wee fuel tanks 0.020, making the comparison, one has the fuel air inlet (the one on the left of the photo) slightly larger than the one on the right, does anyone know why there is such a difference?

Hola Mauricio en cuanto al diámetro del agujero del venturi, esta claro que el más grande puede desarrollar más rpm, pero no todo es ir deprisa, en el Texaco se usan hélices grandes y un diámetro de venturi muy pequeño para disminuir el consumo.
En cuanto al casquillo del Pee wee puedes hacer un dibujo con las medidas por si hago algunas pruebas.
Gracias
Jose

jmcalata wrote:Hola Mauricio en cuanto al diámetro del agujero del venturi, esta claro que el más grande puede desarrollar más rpm, pero no todo es ir deprisa, en el Texaco se usan hélices grandes y un diámetro de venturi muy pequeño para disminuir el consumo.
En cuanto al casquillo del Pee wee puedes hacer un dibujo con las medidas por si hago algunas pruebas.
Gracias
Jose

Hola José, aqui te dejo un croquis del aro o casquillo, además fotos y algunos datos para tener en cuenta:
Hello Jose, here I leave a sketch of the ring or cap, also photos and some data to take into account:

Altura del aro: 7.25 mm, es importante tener en cuenta que algunos cilindros no son exactamente iguales a otros, puede variar alguna medida en décimas de milímetro.
Height of the ring: 7.25 mm, it is important to note that some cylinders are not exactly the same as others, can vary some measure in tenths of a millimeter.

Diámetro interior del aro: 10.5 mm, rectificado y pulido; es importante tener en cuenta que algunos cilindros no son exactamente iguales a otros, puede variar alguna medida en décimas de milímetro.
Inside ring diameter: 10.5 mm, grinding and polishing; It is important to note that some cylinders are not exactly the same as others, can vary some measure in tenths of a millimeter.

Ranura 1 para alojamiento de aro seeger: esta a 1 mm desde el borde superior del aro.
Slot 1 for rim housing seeger: this is 1 mm from the top edge of the rim.

Ranura 2 para alojamiento de aro seeger: esta a 6 mm desde el borde superior del aro.
Slot 2 for ring housing seeger: this is 6 mm from the top edge of the ring.

Ejemplo de posición 2 de aro seeger, esto es para dar otro posicionamiento del mando del acelerador, dependiendo de la instalación del motor en algun modelo determinado.
Example of position 2 of rim seeger, this is to give another positioning of the throttle control, depending on the installation of the engine in any given model.

Apertura de escape del aro, cada salida esta exactamente a 180 grados una de otra, y es de 1mm de alto por 6 mm de ancho. (cuidado en no pasarse porque sino es imposible que el motor baje tantas rpm, el máximo son 6 mm!!!!
Hole exhaust opening, each outlet is exactly 180 degrees from each other, and is 1mm high by 6mm wide. (Be careful not to go because otherwise it is impossible for the engine to go down so many rpm, the maximum is 6 mm !!!!

En esta foto, indico que la apertura o ranura de escape del aro, esta a 2 mm desde el borde superior del aro, es importante tener en cuenta que algunos cilindros no son exactamente iguales a otros, puede variar alguna medida en décimas de milímetro.
In this photo, I indicate that the opening or exhaust groove of the ring is 2 mm from the top edge of the ring, it is important to note that some cylinders are not exactly the same as others, can vary some measure in tenths of a millimeter.

Aunque la foto esta borrosa, trato de mostrar la conicidad del aro en la parte inferior, esto es importante, ya que si no se hace esa conicidad, el aro interfiere con el tanque de combustible!!!.
Although the photo is blurred, I try to show the conicity of the hoop in the bottom, this is important, since if that taper is not made, the hoop interferes with the fuel tank !!!.

Diámetro exterior final del aro, 12.5 mm.
Final outer diameter of the ring, 12.5 mm.


Espero que sea útil la info, y cualquier duda de algo que no puedas interpretar, solo házmelo saber, que gustosamente te respondo, saludos!.
I hope that the info is useful, and any doubt of something that you can not interpret, just let me know, that I gladly respond, greetings !.

Fantástica explicación Mauricio, no creo que se pueda hacer mejor, dan ganas de ponerse a ello ahora mismo.
¿Has partido de un tubo de aluminio o de una barra maciza? ¿El aro seeger que número es?

Woow Mauricio, You are a fantastic teacher and you explain that a open book

Thank you very much friend
Jose

jmcalata wrote:Fantástica explicación Mauricio, no creo que se pueda hacer mejor, dan ganas de ponerse a ello ahora mismo.
¿Has partido de un tubo de aluminio o de una barra maciza? ¿El aro seeger que número es?

Woow Mauricio, You are a fantastic teacher and you explain that a open book

Thank you very much friend
Jose

Hola José, respondiendo tu pregunta te comento lo siguiente; Si no tienes un torno (como me pasa a mí), tienes que partir de un tubo o tuerca, que posea el orificio, de esta manera vas a poder trabajar centrado. Yo trabajo con un taladro de banco,de esa manera podrás hacer algo con resultados aceptables, de lo contrario, te va a ser imposible conseguir que quede centrada la pieza y por lo tanto el trabajo se arruinará. Recuerda que son paredes extremadamente delgadas y no permiten margen de error, por lo tanto, como dije antes, si no tienes torno, tienes que trabajar a mano, limas cierras y taladro y mucha paciencia.... cuéntame como te fue!?

Hello José, answering your question I comment the following; If you do not have a lathe (as it happens to me), you have to start from a tube or nut, which has the hole, in this way you will be able to work centered. I work with a bench drill, that way you can do something with acceptable results, otherwise, it will be impossible to get the part centered and therefore the work will be ruined. Remember that they are extremely thin walls and do not allow margin of error, therefore, as I said before, if you do not have lathe, you have to work by hand, files close and drill and a lot of patience .... tell me how it was !?

Mauricio My friend you have a lot of patience ... to do this with only a drill and file tools is a true talent that i am sure you enjoy . Thanks for the teaching lesson

jmcalata wrote: ¿El aro seeger que número es?
Jose

José, olvide dejarte la medida del aro seeger, es de 10.5 mm diámetro interior.

Jose, forget to let you measure the rim seeger, it is 10.5 mm inside diameter

Gracias y el material acero o aluminio?

getback wrote:Mauricio My friend you have a lot of patience ... to do this with only a drill and file tools is a true talent that i am sure you enjoy . Thanks for the teaching lesson  

Eric !, thanks for your message, it's a pleasure for me, to accept some challenges with tools from home, if I achieve the goal, then I feel happy, if I do not, I usually rescue what I learned and with time, I start again!

Hello Jose, Eric and whoever you are interested .... here I am represented in photos the step by step of the manufacture of the accelerator ring for the Cox .020

Hola José, Eric y a quien le interese....aquí les dejo representado en fotos el paso a paso de la fabricación del aro de acelerador para el Cox .020

Herramientas de mano, ademas el taladro de banco que se observa en las fotos.
Hand tools, besides the bench drill that is observed in the photos.

Si partimos de una tuerca de hierro, hay que colocar un tornillo roscado y apretado, para poder tomar desde el tornillo con el taladro de banco.
If we start with an iron nut, we must install a screw threaded and tight, to be able to take from the screw with the bench drill.

Tornillo apretado en taladro de banco.
Screw tight in bench drill.

Clocar una prensa, la misma es para punto de apoyo de la lima.
Placing a press, it is for the point of support of the file.

Lima de desvastar, para formar la parte exterior redonda, apoyada en la prensa y manejando a mano la misma.
Thinning file, to form the round outer part, supported in the press and handling by hand.

Así se ve una vez limada la tuerca.
This is seen once the nut is filed.

Así se ve una vez limada la tuerca.
This is seen once the nut is filed.

Con la prensa y una sierra apoyando en la misma, se practican las ranuras para el aro seeger.
With the press and a saw leaning on it, grooves are practiced for the seeger hoop.

Quitar el conjunto del taladro de banco y desenroscar el tornillo, perforar con mecha la tuerca, a 10.5 mm, (tomar la precaución de medir el cilindro de su propio motor, ya que pueden existir diferencias en décimas de milímetro). El agujero no debe ser pasante, debe dejar unos 5 mm de rosca finales para poder volver a roscar el tornillo!!
Remove the seat drill assembly and unscrew the screw, wrench the nut, 10.5 mm (take care to measure the cylinder of your own engine, as there may be differences in tenths of a millimeter). The hole must not be through, must leave about 5 mm of final thread to be able to re-screw the screw !!

Colocar nuevamente el tornillo y apretar junto a la tuerca, practicar por medio de un disco de corte pequeño, las ranuras a 180 grados, y no más de 6 milímetros, recomiendo hacerlo en varias etapas para no pasarse de largo!
Replace the screw and tighten it next to the nut, practice using a small cutting disc, the grooves at 180 degrees, and no more than 6 millimeters, I recommend doing it in several stages so as not to go too far!

Volver a colocar el conjunto en el taladro de banco y con una lima pequeña practicar la conicidad de la base (esta permite que el tanque no roce el aro). Luego mediante una sierra hacer el corte definitivo y obtenemos el aro.
Replace the assembly in the bench drill and with a small file practice the conicity of the base (this allows the tank not to rub the hoop). Then using a saw make the final cut and get the hoop.

Aquí vemos las piezas separadas luego del corte con sierra, el tornillo, lo que quedo de la tuerca y el aro.
Here we see the pieces separated after the cut with saw, the screw, what remained of the nut and the ring.

Con la parte de atrás de la mecha y pasta de pulir válvulas, hacemos el asentamiento final, lavar el aro con gasolina aceitar y provar en el cilindro, repetir esta operación, hasta que el aro entre perfectamente y gire en el cilindro de nuestro Cox 0.020.
With the back of the wick and pulp polishing valves, we make the final settlement, wash the ring with gasoline accept and taste in the cylinder, repeat this operation, until the ring between perfectly and turn in the cylinder of our Cox 0.020 .

Con la parte de atrás de la mecha y pasta de pulir válvulas, hacemos el asentamiento final, lavar el aro con gasolina aceitar y provar en el cilindro, repetir esta operación, hasta que el aro entre perfectamente y gire en el cilindro de nuestro Cox 0.020.
With the back of the wick and pulp polishing valves, we make the final settlement, wash the ring with gasoline accept and taste in the cylinder, repeat this operation, until the ring between perfectly and turn in the cylinder of our Cox 0.020 .


//////////****////////////****With aluminum alloy tube-Con tubo de aleación de aluminio//////////*****////////////*******
Si desean hacerlo partiendo de un tubo de aluminio, directamente tomar el tubo del taladro y realizan todas las operaciones tomando directamente el tubo de la parte exterior, es recomendable colocar un macizo dentro del tubo a la altura del mandril del taladro, para que este gire centrado y no se deforme.
If you wish to do this starting from an aluminum tube, directly take the drill tube and perform all the operations by directly taking the tube from the outside, it is advisable to place a mass inside the tube at the height of the drill chuck, so that it turns Centered and not deformed.


Respecto al material a utilizar hierro o aleación de aluminio, pueden optar por uno u otro, dependiendo con cual se sientan a gusto trabajar y que es lo que consiguen en una tienda o ferretería de barrio. Espero que la información les sea de utilidad, saludos!!

Regarding the material to use iron or aluminum alloy, they can choose one or the other, depending on which they feel comfortable to work and that is what they get in a neighborhood store or hardware store. I hope the information is useful, greetings !!

Ahora si que está todo claro y afortunadamente tengo torno en el trabajo, taladraré a 10,5 con broca en el contrapunto y luego terminar el exterior, hacer las ranuras con una pequeña sierra o lima y los escapes con la dremell y tronzar al largo.

jmcalata wrote:Ahora si que está todo claro y afortunadamente tengo torno en el trabajo, taladraré a 10,5 con broca en el contrapunto y luego terminar el exterior, hacer las ranuras con una pequeña sierra o lima y los escapes con la dremell y tronzar al largo.

José, con el torno el trabajo será mucho más simple, debido a que justamente, esa herramienta es la ideal para estas pequeñas piezas, de todos modos, si lo logré con las herramientas que tengo, estoy seguro que vos allí obtendrás también muy buenos resultados, espero ver algun video!
Es importante decirte, que asentar el diámetro interior del anillo, es fundamental y el mejor material para lograrlo, es pasta de pulir, en este caso utilice la que se usa para válvulas de automotores.
Saludos!

José, with the lathe the work will be much simpler, because, precisely, that tool is the ideal for these small pieces, anyway, if I did it with the tools I have, I'm sure you'll get very good results there too I hope to see some video!
It is important to tell you that to settle the inner diameter of the ring is fundamental and the best material to achieve it is polishing paste, in this case use the one used for automotive valves.
Regards!

706jim wrote:That works very well. I have the factory throttled Pee Wee but never took it out of the package to check its performance. One would think that a 7500rpm idle is a bit fast, but it would reduce prop thrust enormously, allowing a plane to land under control. Is that the 4 x 2.5 prop?

Hi, how are you? Here I prepared a little video for you to see the behavior of the accelerator ring. In this case the hoop is commercial, that is to say, this is exactly the same as the one you have and therefore you can check that with it You can reduce the speed of the engine until landing and then speed up again and put it back in flight to the plane.
You can also "play" with the accelerator and fly the model at different engine speeds depending on the day and weather conditions, especially if there is a lot of wind. I hope this video is useful. Regards!

You are to be commended for making a precise part with hand tools. It is a skill lacking from many these days.

I only wish I lived closer to you as I own a lovely engine lathe that sits in my garage just waiting for projects such as you are doing.

BTW, a bit of trivia: "Engine lathes" were not named for manufacturing engine parts but rather because they were powered by an external engine. Originally, a steam engine or large electric motor drove a line shaft that ran through a machine shop. Lathes and other machine tools were driven by flat belts that were driven by the lone shaft.

706jim wrote:You are to be commended for making a precise part with hand tools. It is a skill lacking from many these days.

I only wish I lived closer to you as I own a lovely engine lathe that sits in my garage just waiting for projects such as you are doing.

BTW, a bit of trivia: "Engine lathes" were not named for manufacturing engine parts but rather because they were powered by an external engine. Originally, a steam engine or large electric motor drove a line shaft that ran through a machine shop. Lathes and other machine tools were driven by flat belts that were driven by the lone shaft.

Hello! Thank you very much for your words, I am excited about your message. Pretend that I already lent that tool !, Thank you indeed!
I hope that you too can enjoy as it happens to me the possibility of controlling the engine and so the flight becomes more exciting.
Landing on the grass with this little model without the same cloak (turn around) , is a cute challenge!
Here I found an old photograph with the installation that you explain to me.
A big hug!

You make it look simple enough , thats for the intro(showing) of how to !

getback wrote:You make it look simple enough , thats for the intro(showing) of how to !

Hi Eric, with my manual tools it takes me 4 hours to make a hoop, the longest time to work is to hoop the hoop with the polishing paste! That does tire a little, but then the result is extremely rewarding !