What is the most oil and nitro resistant covering?

I'm a dyed in the wool dope modeler. I have somewhat switched up my methods over the years. I have mentioned this on more than one occasion in dope discussions that Sig Lite Coat is by far the most resistant to fuel. Sig Lite Coat is not the same as Supercoat. Lite Coat is as thick as honey when you get it. There's enough dope in the bottle to make more than double the amount. It's also the CLEAREST of clears. It won't properly shrink your covering if used therefore Supercoat needs to be applied first. Over the past few years, I have switched my methods to water based crosslinked polyurethane from Nelson Hobby. Jerry Nelson sold the company a few years ago and the new owner hasn't been to receptive to my requests. I purchase the product directly from Systems 3. Systems 3 https://systemthree.com/collections/paint-varnish/products/water-reducible-linear-polyurethane-topcoat now offers small amounts with the crosslinker. I use nitrate dope for a base. This won't work butyrate dope as it will shed off. It takes a lot of practice to master this stuff as it's the most different paint I have ever used. It's thin as water and will run all over if not properly applied. I have found this product to be very fuel proof up to 45% nitro. The more humid the weather, the better this stuff works, it shines better and has a bit more open time. It can be recoated in 15 minutes. I have noticed that over the past 7 years of using it, it has stood up far superior to any dope jobs I have witnessed. A little goes forever. It thins with water preferably distilled water and a sponge brush.

This paint takes a lot of practice but in the end, I have never had anything hold up to the rigors of this hobby as this stuff. You will dispose of more paint than what you actually use until you understand how far a little goes. It mixes and blends with other colors unlike any paint I have ever used. Unfortunately, it will run like crazy until one understands it's properties. It has to go on with water color like consistency building the paint in layers vs coating the model. You put it on and brush from one end to the other. You don't go back into the work. This paint requires multiple coats 5-6 but they need to be done in succession.

I have witnessed over the years in the hobby and on the forums those that try all kinds of experimentation. I know what works for me and I also know what does work and what works the best. I have seen no mention of this type of paint. I have had at least 50 models done in this fashion and it works well. Out of the bottle, 10% fuel generally fairs well, add the crosslinker and the coats are impervious to high nitro such as what is generally used in 1/2A. I coat with nitrate dope first and go to a white base followed by colors and then clear. Don't use butyrate dope of lacquer based primers with this product. it won't work.

Thanks for the link, Ken, I'd never heard of that stuff before, but seems like some really good stuff, water based too, which is particularly interesting, reasonably priced too considering. Does the clear go over well with water slide decals, the ones that come in old kits requiring fuel proofer no longer available?

I have used it successfully over the old type water slide decals. No prepping, just placed directly over the top. I used a sponge brush and would give them multiple swipes. Jim Damerell from Garden State Circle Burners uses Auto Air colors for his beautifully finished stunters. Jim has been using these paints for quite some time. Here's a pic of one of Jim's latest.    Jim's is the orange and blue model https://www.facebook.com/PhillyFliersCL/photos/a.605410626195742.1073741847.513140418756097/1122510254485774/?type=3&theater

               I have never used Auto Air colors. He always tells me to use it as they have a lot more color choices. Ken

The waterslide decals I use are for inkjet printers and I guess that ink is water based. So maybe that makes it pretty inert for solvent contact. I don't know if I'd brush one though, it might smear the ink. Try it on a test decal first.