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Post  RknRusty Thu Apr 21, 2016 9:27 pm

Last practice before next weekend's contest. I'll be flying Profile Saturday and PAMPA Stunt Sunday morning. The wind was forecast to be light at 10:00 and gradually pickup every hour after that. Blowing through the trees, but not towards the sun. Early it was okay and for the first time since last winter I was able to fly a couple of patterns on the Cardinal without white knuckle pullouts and who knows what up top. The new clunk tank is great. plenty of fuel for the way I like the engine to run and I can measure it by eye inside the tank. The LA.46 is sweet and always cranks with two choke turns and a back flip. After the second flight, I called it ready and parked it. This time next week Me, Holley and the Cardinal will be in Huntersville. Sitting by the pool with a bunch of other pilots of various control line disciplines. That'll be after a couple of Friday flights to get the needle and fuel in sync.

After post flight inspection of the Cardinal on Sunday, I found that the glue had failed on every single hinge. Damn! The gap-sealing tape was all that was holding the flaps and elevator on. Lol. Or else someone who shall remain unnamed forgot to glue them in the first place. I drilled and pinned every one with toothpicks and CA.
It's only got half the pins in the pic but you get the idea.
Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Cardinal%20pinned%20flaps_zps9aflezfk
Yes I cut them off flush. And I think it flew better, but it's been so long since it flew in only a light breeze, I may have forgotten.

I wanted one or two flights on the Oriental, one of my favorite flyers ever. The engine is finally on song and using much less fuel, besides there were 50 or so soldiers watching, and who am I to miss the opportunity for a show, even though the afternoon wind was picking up pretty good. More of those sand devils I wrote of on Sunday.

After getting beat around by the wind, I gave myself the cut throat signal to just fly it out. A lull came along, so I got back in to it with a pretty confident V8 and HG. I pulled up into the OH8 and, as I sometimes do, turned into the first loop too soon and bled off enough power for the wind to slap it hard. I caught the lines too late and it was flying full speed straight down vertical.
Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Th_0421161317_zpsht1eljtq

It had been a good plane and won me a couple of trophies and a fair placing at last May's Joe Nall. It had been busted and fixed before but nothing like this. This was the fp.40 that I'd finally l got back running well with Bob Z's help. One of the tab's bolt holes broke off, but with a Windy bar mount, the fp can live on.

At least it simplifies things, I only have one plane to worry about next weekend. I possibly could have run harder and faster and caught it, but it all happens so fast, it's hard to know. I'm not too bummed except that I really liked flying that plane. I think I'll get a Cardinal or profile Oriental kit to pair with the upcoming Twister. I'm done with full fuse planes for the skill level I'm at right now. But despite this, I feel pretty good going into next weekend.

Rusty


Last edited by RknRusty on Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:29 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:01 pm

Totally fixable, maybe not before the contest, but you can put it on the backburner.

Good luck out there man!

Ron
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Post  Marleysky Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:13 pm

Rusty,  oh so sorry,  to see the oriental cracked open like a fortune cookie!  It was looking so dam good.  If you don't have a #2 back-up....whatcha gonna do?  Whatever is is I wish you well! RC Plane

Like Ron said: it's fixable! Maybe not like combat with epoxy and duct tape, but fixable
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Post  RknRusty Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:20 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Totally fixable, maybe not before the contest, but you can put it on the backburner.

Good luck out there man!

Ron
Lol...might serve better for lighting the back burner. It's trash, Ron. I could get a new one in the air and trimmed easier. Please trust me on this one.

I don't need to invest any more time and money into full fuse planes. Their benefit is only relevant to the Experts and upper Advanced competitors. They are too fragile and difficult to repair compared to profile. I might consider fixing the Ukey wing, but I was planning to do nothing at all pressing this coming week, so as not to be exhausted and ill next weekend. I learned that lesson the hard way.
Reckin' Rusty
lol!

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Post  RknRusty Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:25 pm

Marleysky wrote:Rusty,  oh so sorry,  to see the oriental cracked open like a fortune cookie!  It was looking so dam good.  If you don't have a #2 back-up....whatcha gonna do?  Whatever is is I wish you well! RC Plane

Like Ron said: it's fixable!  Maybe not like combat with epoxy and duct tape, but fixable
Thanks Marley. but this one has been beaten up three too many times. I'll probably go without a backup. A repair may turn it into a good sport plane, but not a PA ship. Anybody want it? I'd have to recover some hardware, but I'll give it to anyone who wants it. The fighter jet pilot is still in the cockpit and the canopy isn't hurt. He didn't have time to punch out.
Rusty

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Post  Ken Cook Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:13 am

I would highly suggest not to fix that plane. It's not worth the time and effort. A new one could be built or purchased. It served it's purpose. I would also lose the feeling that your flying skills are not up to full fuse planes. They fly better, run better . The ARF's don't lend themselves to be repaired easily. All the wood is metric and it's damn near impossible to match wing sheeting, etc. With that much damage, even more damage is hidden in the structure. This generally leads to a catastrophic failure or horrific engine runs which were worse than before. I think your flying is terrific and your will to strive is even better. As far as a profile is concerned, I feel one of the best profiles to fly is the P-40 ARF. I'm not a fan of the fuse sitting so high up on the wing, but it can really fly like a full bodied plane. Your Twister profile is a terrific plane equally,the Umland Twister profile is certainly not your average profile. One hurdle to overcome is the attachment to the plane one receives from building it. Very difficult to do and much easier to type than to experience. A stock Twister can be highly competitive. Brodak does offer the wing for the Oriental , unfortunately it damn near costs as much as the entire plane. Set that one on the shelf and give it back to the god  of flight. If you choose to build a Oriental, the Brodak kit is a very simple and pleasurable model to assemble. I'm a big fan of hollowing and shaping fuse blocks.
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Post  Kim Fri Apr 22, 2016 5:13 am

Fantastic! Good Luck and GO Get'm Rusty !
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Post  pkrankow Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:41 am

Fix the wing and build a new fuselage. It looks like most of the wing is in great shape.

Yea, a spare is a good idea. Doesn't need to be pretty, just fly well.

Phil
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Post  fit90 Fri Apr 22, 2016 8:22 am

Ouch! Man, I am sorry to see that. That is the hard side of the hobby and probably a big part of what makes us appreciate it so much when things go well. I agree with Ken regarding rebuilding, there is probably way more damage hiding in spots you won't see unless you take it apart further. Good luck next weekend. Have safe travels and lots of fun. From your videos it looks like you have become a serious competitor. Please post videos of your trip if you can.
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Post  RknRusty Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:47 am

Thanks. To all of you. Makes me feel like y'all have got my back.
I am serious when I compete, but not so much in practice, more like having fun. But I manage to make small gains every time, so I guess that's good. I'm stoked, ready to be there.
Hope to come back with good reports.
Rusty

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Post  londke3 Fri Apr 22, 2016 1:31 pm

Just don't wreck the Cardinal on Saturday. I want to beat you fair and square on Sunday. lol! lol!
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Post  RknRusty Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:35 pm

londke3 wrote:Just don't wreck the Cardinal on Saturday. I want to beat you fair and square on Sunday. lol! lol!
Don't you worry your li'l self about that, I've got my demolition quota out of the way for this year Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Pistols


I went back and thumb-nailed the pictures I posted. In my post flight haze last night I blasted it out twice on SH without realizing it, and then here too.

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Post  dckrsn Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:14 pm

Hey, break a leg there Rusty.
I'm know there's a bunch of us pulling for you.
Karma power!
Bob
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Post  RknRusty Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:18 pm

dckrsn wrote:Hey, break a leg there Rusty.
I'm know there's a bunch of us pulling for you.
Karma power!
Bob
Yep, much appreciated, pull for Mike too, he's one of ours. I hope we all do good... and that I do just a smidgen better Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Cool.
Rusty


Last edited by RknRusty on Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:57 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  dckrsn Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:45 pm

RknRusty wrote:
dckrsn wrote:Hey, break a leg there Rusty.
I'm know there's a bunch of us pulling for you.
Karma power!
Bob
Yep, much appreciated, pull for Mike too, he's one of ours. I hope we all do good... and that I do just a smidgen better Lol.
Rusty
But of course, hope you and Mike storm the field. Thumbs Up
Bob
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Post  RknRusty Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:59 pm

Last May Wayne and I brought 1st and 2nd back to Columbia. So this May, Me and Mike'll do the same for CEF.

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Post  Kim Fri Apr 22, 2016 8:27 pm

Good Mojo to you, Sir Rusty.

Go Forth, and Pattern !!!!!!!!!
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Post  Ken Cook Sat Apr 23, 2016 6:25 am

Rusty, post a picture of your engine case if you don't mind. Provide me a exhaust side and opposing side. Dennis Morritz has a lot of FP engines on hand. He might have a spare case. The Windy Bar is ok, I just don't trust that setup. I don't like the fact that the bars can bend around the lug allowing the engine to come loose. Eventually it will if not tightened every single outing and the lug will start to cut into the bar leaving a mess of black oil and gook. I haven't been out of the loop for nearly 3 months now but I could e-mail him. I wish I could attend Huntersville. I skipped out on stunt the past few years but I certainly would like to give it a go once again. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Sat Apr 23, 2016 11:30 am

Here you go, Ken.
Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Th_0423161159_zps3ex43ulp

Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Th_0423161158b_zpsqdhimtm6

Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Th_0423161158a_zpsxmbrsfbu


Didn't even break the prop, Didn't even get dirty. That's how vertical it hit. The ground was pretty hard.
Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup Th_0423161150_zps8uxrdq4p

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Post  Ken Cook Sat Apr 23, 2016 1:01 pm

Rusty, I did the same to mine, straight in. Mine suffered a leadout problem. I was coming out of the reverse wingover and WHAM!!! Even on the dirt, the aluminum spinner was totally waffled. My engine though snapped the screws off which has happened to me more than once. Actually good though as they were sacrificial. That's one suggestion I would make for those that fly over asphalt which is to use soft steel machine screws vs allen socket heads as they will fail saving an engine. I've broken more than one backplate though due to hitting straight in. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Sat Apr 23, 2016 4:43 pm

Ken, I remember that advice from you on sacrificial screws, and in fact that's what saved the other three holes. Just bad luck on that one corner though. They were sheet metal screws that bite incredibly firmly into that type of engine mount. The old FP was really doing its thing, breaking 2 and 4 pretty as can be. I just have to shake my head when I think maybe I could have tried harder and maybe caught it. But I have everything I need to build a brand new ARF Nobler. Some time ago, Will gave me a fuse, wing, flaps and Rudder still in the wrap. I'll just miss a good backup plane that I already fly well.

The LA.46 on the Cardinal has a bar mount, and I checked the bolts when you mentioned in your other post that they loosen, but they're all tight. It's a fat .218"(7/32") bar and no sign of bowing...
Whoops, spoke too soon, I ran out to measure and take a pic, and there's a slight bow there, but it hasn't loosened since I checked it a good while back. Not sacrificial though.
Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup 04231610


Say Goodluck, Cardy!...
Today's last chance to tune up and confirm#1 and its #2 backup 04231611

See all my toothpick hinge pins in the flaps and elevator.

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Post  pkrankow Sat Apr 23, 2016 9:35 pm

Ken, Now that you mention it I had a couple planes that were the first that I built after returning to flying. 1/2a and besides a plethora of problems related to weight, I kept having control loss. Turned out that the controls had a portion of the LO that would hang up on the rib near the bell crank. One of the planes was totally destroyed, and the other I put Power Pro lead outs into the wing. (1/2A plane)

I have found that it takes surprisingly little shoulder to cause the termination loop to catch on the rib. If both catch together then there is no way to shake it loose! This is what was happening to me! Making the termination as small as practical and enlarging the holes affected by the termination is all I can seem to do to reduce the effect of this problem. Making sure BOTH cannot possibly catch together is also pretty important. Long heat shrink so the heat shrink rides on the rib instead of wire is what I have also tried.

I haven't had an actual problem since discovering what happened on those two models, however the situation naggs because I have not found a means to be absolutely positive it cannot happen. I am beginning to believe this is a source of forked and double layer bell cranks as a concept.

Phil
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Apr 24, 2016 2:39 am

Ribs holes can be opened way up in and around the crank. This is your first defense against having that happen. In addition, shimming your bellcrank so that it's completely centered up and down is another good idea, unfortunately easier said then done at times. How you do your terminations is equally important. For years, I did the in and out which left a portion hanging out the exit. This is the piece that will get snagged, the end result is the cable susceptible to fraying and unwinding which will wreck your model. It will get caught resulting in loss of control and it will not become undone. It generally gets worse. The solution to this is to terminate with the cable returning back into the crimp tube if you use them. If your wrapping leadouts, fold it back onto itself and terminate using soft copper wire over it. Providing shrink tube over this termination is the solution but you have to make certain that the shrink tube runs back through the prior rib far enough that in either direction it ends in the middle of a rib bay. Otherwise, the shrink tubing can catch on a rib with the same contributing problem.
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