A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer

looks like a fun little project and certainly different. very cool!

How's this one coming along?

Ken, I know this is out of date, but still; if doping is out of the question due to temperature & humidity, how about Minwax clear polyurethane? I've become a huge fan of it ever since I used it on the Osprey and it's bullet proof to everything a modeler can spill on it. Heavier than dope, but it doesn't take as much, just wipe it on with a T-shirt rag and pant over it if you want color. I fuelproof repairs with it instead of epoxy nowadays, and paint the insides of screw holes,all things like that.
Rusty

Doping can be done in the colder temps. In fact I prefer it actually. The humidity is a non issue. The problem is that drying is a issue. You have to regulate drying with different thinners and this can cause some excitability in the dope . What happens is that if your not careful, the solvents now get trapped in the underlying surface longer than it would on a hot day and the paint can blister the underlying coats. The end result is it blisters all the way down to bare wood lifting the silkspan attachment coat. Key is not to spray too heavy and be very careful when masking. I cut my tape and stick it on my shirt so that the tape gets lint on it prior to pressing it onto the model. Once in place, I quickly brush a coat of clear on the tape and proceed with spraying. The tape which now has it's tackiness somewhat dulled down comes off without taking the dope with it. A hair dryer over the tape prior to removal also works well. I just finished the Saucerer today as a matter of fact. It was a rainy day and I worked on several models.



I have 3 coats of nitrate clear followed with 2 coats of Nelson urethane. This is the last of my Nelson paint. The Nelson paints are very translucent and generally require 2 additional coats to what I already have on . Elevator needs to have hinges glued in and controls put on. I'm looking forward to flying it. I last saw this plane fly 40 years ago.

Nice plane. Were the plans downloaded online? Looks like a simple build similar to the Osborne Platter.

Stunning!
Bob

dckrsn wrote:
Stunning!
Bob

That is very neat looking I would like to see that fly.great job.

The plans were not downloaded, Kim scanned the magazine article and sent it to me. I did however do a search and sure enough, this came up. http://www.airplanesandrockets.com/airplanes/saucerer-jan-1970-aam.htm I did try and fly the model my father built but it had been around for so long no telling what was going on with it. The end result was a crash from over controlling. Hopefully in the next week, I can get this in the air. Ken

Cool looking saucer Ken

What did you use for the fillets in the first photos?

Very clean job there... I like the color scheme a lot also

Looks really GOOD !! I see you put your controls on the top , that's a good idea to keep them from dragging and maybe better workability too ? Would like to see the maiden if you can Ken . Eric

Fred, fillets are micro balloons and 30 min epoxy. I mix small batches at a time. The beauty of this is that you can go right back on it and it blends in nicely if you run out. If a step is created, I heat it with a heat gun until it levels. I wait a few days before painting them. I just wrap sandpaper around a 3/8" dowel and scuff them prior to painting. Water based urethane sticks to it exceptionally well. Ken

That is too funny ken

Years ago you suggested micro balloons and epoxy and caused me to buy a tub of them from Sig..(enough for a lifetime)

Because of the color (mine are more white) I though you used a new or different method

In fact it was your suggestion to use a broken prop cut to scallop profile for shaping the fillets and I have several with different radii I use

Fred, this last batch of epoxy I bought yellowed as it aged. I go through epoxy quite fast and I didn't have it long, but the air space in the bottle made the hardener yellow. I too use the Sig micro balloons which is what is on that plane. I got pretty handy with the micro balloons and I can keep the radius pretty consistent aside from the spill over which easily wipes off with a paper towel. You would be surprised as to how much weight using it can generate. Ken

Epoxy yellowing....ah ha!

yep once you said mico balloons and epoxy I fully got it about the color diff

They are so well done in the first photos I thought you might have actually used leather or a caulk gun/two part mixing tube product

in fact they look (at first glance) as raised (convex) fillets instead of coves (concave)

I look at fillets as structural in some areas (stab/rudder) and just cosmetic in others (engine nacelles and wing root)