Micro 12VDC Generator with a Cox .049 Sure Start Diesel Engine

robot797 wrote:WTF
and now you are repeating what i am saying the whole time

a soca can is springy enough brass sheet (0.15mm is spriny enough)

so my 0.1 copper is also springy enough

Again, I do not think so.

Do this : Measure the thicknesses of the counter piston and the Teflon gasket. Add them. Measure the diameter of the cylinder at the upper point of the rim. Go to the nearest garage. Give the 5 Euros and ask them to cut you and grind you a circle with the same diameter and the combined thicknes. The diameter has to be as accurate as possible, the thickness very approximate. Go home. Remove the Teflon gasket and the counter piston from your engine. Install the new circle. Assemble. Adjust the compression screw. Start your engine.

robot797 wrote:WTF
and now you are repeating what i am saying the whole time

a soca can is springy enough brass sheet (0.15mm is spriny enough)

so my 0.1 copper is also springy enough

Copper does not spring with 100% certainty. Most brasses too. Phosphor bronze may. I do not know whether Phosphor bronze does or does not. Thin steel ( most ) does. Use thin steel in case you want some spring effect.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:WTF
and now you are repeating what i am saying the whole time

a soca can is springy enough brass sheet (0.15mm is spriny enough)

so my 0.1 copper is also springy enough

Copper does not spring with 100% certainty. Most brasses too. Phosphor bronze may. I do not know whether Phosphor bronze does or does not. Thin steel ( most )  does. Use thin steel in case you want some spring effect.

Very thin stainless steel, 0.1mm,may be available in some guitar shops as guitar picks. Not very popular. May be available online.

Engine fully disassembled with ceankshaft easily removed. Gently and slouly banged out without reaching nor touching the crankcase. Fingers in the crankcase to prevent the cranksgaft from moving while banged are OK.

Crankshaft is immensly well designed with a good flywheel and a narowing on the actual axel to allow for better oiling. Cannot believe I broke this. Very unhappy Cox do not have stock yet and cannot wait for them to receive them. Very unhappy to use Davis Diesel who are a garage company in comparison and not thrustworthy. Although crankshaft is easy to make and the metals are easy to specify, I do not trust Davis Diesel even for simple things. However, their crankshaft is for temporary use only. Hope to last a month.

The crankcase is like brand new. The side near the drive plate is thick and strong and undamaged. Looks like the drive plate is made of soft Aluminium while the crankcase is made of strong and hard Aluminium alloys.

The intakes and filters have not been blocked inside. Just the connective pipe to the fuel line before.

robot797 wrote:WTF
and now you are repeating what i am saying the whole time

a soca can is springy enough brass sheet (0.15mm is spriny enough)

so my 0.1 copper is also springy enough

Read carefully. When I say I do not think so, I mean I do not think you can say anything Iam wrong or do not know with diesels but, under the freedom of speach, you can say whatever you want. So, in case ypu want to talk engines and explain them, go ahead, I do not care.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:WTF
and now you are repeating what i am saying the whole time

a soca can is springy enough brass sheet (0.15mm is spriny enough)

so my 0.1 copper is also springy enough

Read carefully. When I say I do not think so, I mean I do not think you can say anything Iam wrong or do not know with diesels but, under the freedom of speach, you can say whatever you want. So, in case ypu want to talk engines and explain them, go ahead, I do not care.

Again hole in the circle is not necessary and the compression will always go around the circle between the circle and the wall. The thinner the easier. Thick may prevent. Still no holes. As much as they leak and not more. Whoever wants to leak more must make thin. Thin require counter piston to leak more easily around the lower radius counter piston. Spread of force is not needed with strong metals. Aluminium is OK for the circle as well as all other metals. Brass does not spring. The only metal which springs is steel.

The only difference with and without a counter piston is sensitivity of compression screw control and nothing else.

Teflon cannot work without because Teflon is not strong enough. Also cannot take high temperaturevwell.

The only advantage of Teflon is the siftness : when Teflon shatters and pieces fall into the cylinder, there will not be danage.

Brittle metals shatter and do not bend. When shattered may damage the cylinder. Thus, Teflon is the only [bleep]. Metal is better but will damage.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:WTF
and now you are repeating what i am saying the whole time

a soca can is springy enough brass sheet (0.15mm is spriny enough)

so my 0.1 copper is also springy enough

Read carefully. When I say I do not think so, I mean I do not think you can say anything Iam wrong or do not know with diesels but, under the freedom of speach, you can say whatever you want. So, in case ypu want to talk engines and explain them, go ahead, I do not care.

Again hole in the circle is not necessary and the compression will always go around the circle between the circle and the wall. The thinner the easier. Thick may prevent. Still no holes. As much as they leak and not more. Whoever wants to leak more must make thin. Thin require counter piston to leak more easily around the lower radius counter piston. Spread of force is not needed with strong metals. Aluminium is OK for the circle as well as all other metals. Brass does not spring. The only metal which springs is steel.

The only difference with and without a counter piston is sensitivity of compression screw control and nothing else.

Teflon cannot work without because Teflon is not strong enough. Also cannot take high temperaturevwell.

The only advantage of Teflon is the siftness : when Teflon shatters and pieces fall into the cylinder, there will not be danage.

Brittle metals shatter and do not bend. When shattered may damage the cylinder. Thus, Teflon is the only [bleep]. Metal is better but will damage.

Again, I can make the circles to whoever wants from the metals I have. Neither of these can spring.

I hope I clarified all issues because I think I was nit understood. When I say something, I say what I say and not what other than Ithink I say. The problem with these forums is people think what others want to say and not what they actually say. In case you do not know what I want to say, JUST ASK LIKE NORMAL PEOPLE DO.

This is getting way out of hand. To save continual misunderstandings, can I suggest that you all proof-read your posts before publishing. I'm not only referring to those for which English is not their first language. Much of what has been said is gibberish, said in the heat of the moment and impossible for many of us to understand.
Clearly there are some who don't understand the principal of how a model compression ignition (diesel) engine works. If you want to use a diesel engine, can I suggest that you source one that was originally designed and built as a diesel. Otherwise, you should stick with using the conversion head in the manner which the designer intended. I have no undestanding of how the teflon disc works in a Davis (Cox) diesel conversion head, but being the owner of a dozen "normal" diesel engines, it's not rocket science. There are enormous pressures created inside the combustion chamber when running. In my opinion, shim metal or teflon sheeting is never going to be a reliable option. I have never seen a "real" diesel that doesn't use a contra piston, only after-market conversions. The RJL uses a contra-piston inside the head sealed with an o-ring. OK Cub also used an o-ring from the factory, but the piston, I believe, was housed in the top of a taller cylinder . Most all others use a very tightly fitted contra-piston housed in the longer cylinder. A Cox engine's cylinder terminates at the top of the piston stroke. Any diesel head is always going to be a compromise.

Cool heads everyone.

i have explained and maybe i am not realy helpfull

but i do know exactly how these cox diesels work

you talk about a hole in the middle

i am talking about a disk
disks do not have holes
they "seal" one part from another


but hey

you wont lissen so i will make a simple explaination soon

Steven hasn't yet understood how the diesel head works. This is also evident in the very loooong description he wrote for the engine/generator. I have pointed that out a long time ago but he doesn't seem interested in reading up on basic engineering stuff.

thank you kris
i was slowly thinking i was wrong

i have tried making my own diesel head for a kyosh engine a few years ago
it did not work
then i got my cox diesel and it hit me like a train
i did not have a compresion disk
only a sealing ring

robot797 wrote:i have explained and maybe i am not realy helpfull

but i do know exactly how these cox diesels work

you talk about a hole in the middle

i am talking about a disk
disks do not have holes
they "seal" one part from another


but hey

you wont lissen so i will make a simple explaination soon

Not to have holes is what I have said.

Surfer_kris wrote:Steven hasn't yet understood how the diesel head works. This is also evident in the very loooong description he wrote for the engine/generator. I have pointed that out a long time ago but he doesn't seem interested in reading up on basic engineering stuff.

There is NOTHING to understand on the diesel head as this is elementary.

I think you do not understand what I say or write. I have noticed this with you on other topics.

This is why I will give you only examples of experiments with conclusions :

1. I have run the engine on pure Ether and Castor Oil with the compression screw fully unscrewed and taken out along with the spring. Therefore, compression goes around the Teflon gasket and the counter piston and escapes through the hole of the screw. When the screw is inserted, compression goes out through the threads of the hole and the screw.

2. I have run the engine with dome up Teflon gasket. This means the gasket is fully flat from underneath. The compression screw is untightened and almost does not touch the counter piston. Therefore there is no springing and no chamber reduction. The engine works perfectly with the compression going around the Teflon gasket, around the lower diameter counter piston and through the threads of the compression screw and hole.

I do listen to what you and others say but I do not take what is wrong and a lot of thinks are wrong. This is because you do not want to think. There is nothing but simple thinking in this case.

Also you tend to repeat what others say and, usually, most say wrong things for the same reasons. This is again to show: experience is not important. Thinking is.

Think more.

Everything I have said on the diesel head is true regardles of who said what. This is proven. Whatever robot797 says is wrong and misleading although, because of poor expression, to understand what robot797 wants to say is a bigger task than the discussed.

Again : there is no spring effect in the principle. There only may be because of poor materials. There is no chamber variations in the principle. Such may be for the same reason. There is no need to drill a hole in the replacement circle and cover by the counter piston : compression leaks between the circle and the walls. The thickr the circle the lower the leakage at the same compression screw settings.

There is no diesel head in this topic. Just elementary objects which are GENERAL PURPOSE and can be seen everywhere.

i am out

for question about my genertor and engine go to my topic

i will help here with other question but not engine related

Surfer_kris wrote:Steven hasn't yet understood how the diesel head works. This is also evident in the very loooong description he wrote for the engine/generator. I have pointed that out a long time ago but he doesn't seem interested in reading up on basic engineering stuff.

BTW, ALL TOPICS, AS FAR AS I REMEMBER : YOU HAVE BEEN WRONG ON EVERY SINGLE TOPIC DISCUSSED EXCEPT PROVIDING INFORMATION WHERE TO PURCHASE WHAT OR VERY GENERAL THINGS AS : THIS IS AN ENGINE WHICH IS OBVIOUS.

However, information where to get what is very important and, as posted, I have been very greatful to all.

Again : go get a thick circle from a garage, as explained, start your engine than talk.

robot797 wrote:i am out

for question about my genertor and engine go to my topic

i will help here with other question but not engine related

This is the best because of poor communication or lack of understanding,I have spent hours on obvious things which everyone can think over.

Besides, the most important information is wherevto get what because of a lack of basic things around. Thank God there is AliExpress. The only useful part of eBay is the one used by AliExpress sellers as well. However, AliExpress has more stuff and better as well as more choice.

The problem is with specific components, mainly with what Cox International does not have.
.
Thus, in case you want to help, as well as all others, note :

1. I need a pull starter for Cox.
2. I need very long 5 40 screws. 2 inches and more.
3. I need a manual, non centrifugal, clutch. I do not think anyone makes these but is worth asking.
4. I need changing gears, manually. Again, no one would probably make even bicycle style ones.

CAN YOU ALL PROVIDE INFORMATION WITH THESE.

i already promeced you a care package for the firsth 2

and for the 3th i would also like manual cox clutches

immagen the cool mini rc cars i could make

Okay, I think we need to all take a break here.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

Surfer_kris wrote:Steven hasn't yet understood how the diesel head works. This is also evident in the very loooong description he wrote for the engine/generator. I have pointed that out a long time ago but he doesn't seem interested in reading up on basic engineering stuff.

BTW, ALL TOPICS, AS FAR AS I REMEMBER : YOU HAVE BEEN WRONG ON EVERY SINGLE TOPIC DISCUSSED EXCEPT PROVIDING INFORMATION WHERE TO PURCHASE WHAT OR VERY GENERAL THINGS AS : THIS IS AN ENGINE WHICH IS OBVIOUS.

We're not going to tolerate rudeness!

Surfer_kris is very knowledgeable in these diesel engines, I wouldn't doubt any info he posts.

As for why most other forum members aren't joining in on this diesel .049 generator thread, most of our members have interests focused in model aircraft and glow engines. An .049 powered generator is viewed as a fun "toy" or "novelty", not something that is expected to actually be put into use. I believe most members are reading your build log but because of the amount of information you post each day, they find it confusing and choose not to jump in. If we slow it down a little, sum up your posts, maybe you'll get some more input. We have many diesel guys on here that would probably be more than happy to help out.

If you have questions about a particular part of the engine (such as the lip in the cylinder question), you should post them in a new thread if you want more answers.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

Surfer_kris wrote:Steven hasn't yet understood how the diesel head works. This is also evident in the very loooong description he wrote for the engine/generator. I have pointed that out a long time ago but he doesn't seem interested in reading up on basic engineering stuff.

BTW, ALL TOPICS, AS FAR AS I REMEMBER : YOU HAVE BEEN WRONG ON EVERY SINGLE TOPIC DISCUSSED EXCEPT PROVIDING INFORMATION WHERE TO PURCHASE WHAT OR VERY GENERAL THINGS AS : THIS IS AN ENGINE WHICH IS OBVIOUS.

However, information where to get what is very important and, as posted, I have been very greatful to all.

Again : go get a thick circle from a garage, as explained, start your engine than talk.

Holy Cow!

After a statement like that one above, Kris and everyone else is certainly going to bend over backwards to help you with all your needs. Or mebbe not.

I went nuts. Sorry. Too many problems.

Chris said how to insert the crankshaft. I forgot. Thanks. I have also said I have been stupid not to think this over.

I also realised what probably robot797 wanted to say.

Probably, robot797 wanted to suggest an idea for an improved compression control by a hole in the gasket covered by the counter piston. This is a good idea.

I also forgot to mention the counter puston moves from left to roght and cannot fully ensure a central press. The movement is not big but still, there is. Thus a dome up gasket cannot ensure a central press nor can a metal one. This is also why Cox install them dome down.

Also, the reduced chamber may help start the engine more easily although I have started the engine with a dome up gasket easily too.

However, I consider I have made a mistake installing the gasket dome up to be protected from the piston and I will not do this anymore.

i have never talked about a hole being posetive
dont turn my words the wrong way

i may be dutch but the things i say do make sense

KariFS wrote:

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

Surfer_kris wrote:Steven hasn't yet understood how the diesel head works. This is also evident in the very loooong description he wrote for the engine/generator. I have pointed that out a long time ago but he doesn't seem interested in reading up on basic engineering stuff.

BTW, ALL TOPICS, AS FAR AS I REMEMBER : YOU HAVE BEEN WRONG ON EVERY SINGLE TOPIC DISCUSSED EXCEPT PROVIDING INFORMATION WHERE TO PURCHASE WHAT OR VERY GENERAL THINGS AS : THIS IS AN ENGINE WHICH IS OBVIOUS.

However, information where to get what is very important and, as posted, I have been very greatful to all.

Again : go get a thick circle from a garage, as explained, start your engine than talk.

Holy sh1t.

After a statement like that one above, Kris and everyone else is certainly going to bend over backwards to help you with all your needs. Or mebbe not.

I have already appologised and I appologise again. Please note I have spent 7 hours typing on a cellvphone yesterday and now and another 5 hours on Friday.

I am sorry. I am going crazy.

From now on, I will mainly use a PC for not more than 30 minutes in the evening, usually 15.

Sorry. I am out untill any of the coming evenings.

This is not an excuse but, please, try to understand what typing on a cell phone for 12 hours out of 60 is. 20% on a cell phone on the forum.

robot797 wrote:i have never talked about a hole being posetive
dont turn my words the wrong way

i may be dutch but the things i say do make sense

Then I do not know where this hole in the gasket in the middle cane from. Maybe I have misunderstood something.

Regardless who said what, I think the hole idea is excellent. Do not take this wrong. I did not invent this. I rwad or misread something, so I do not still the idea, I did not come up with this idea but I like the idea a lot.