Micro 12VDC Generator with a Cox .049 Sure Start Diesel Engine

it should have come with the engine

all mine do have it

http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-glow-head-gasket-3.html

robot797 wrote:it should have come with the engine

all mine do have it

http://coxengines.ca/cox-.04t9-glow-head-gasket-3.html

Diesels do not come with this gasket but looks OK. I hope I dont forget to get some with the new cranks.

mmmmm weird

becaus if you look at the diesel head guids
it clearly stated that one does need it (becaus they dont come shipped with it)
that is if i understand it correctly
http://coxengines.ca/diesel-head-conversion-for-cox-049.html

isnt it just stuck to the top of your cylinder

normaly it should look black
if yours looks copper then you have found yours

robot797 wrote:mmmmm weird

becaus if you look at the diesel head guids
it clearly stated that one does need it (becaus they dont come shipped with it)
that is if i understand it correctly
http://coxengines.ca/diesel-head-conversion-for-cox-049.html

isnt it just stuck to the top of your cylinder

normaly it should look black
if yours looks copper then you have found yours

Yes the diesel conversion kit says head gasket is not included.

The cylinder has a delimiting ring which does not allow the piston to go higher nor the Teflon gasket to go lower.

The piston best be reset so the piston does not bang in this ring which may create vibrations and repercussions to the crank pin although without a force.

I think the piston I have is OK still factory preset or looking like.

The thread is the only thing which prevents compression from leaking. Because the thread is very fine and there is a lot of thread, compression is not supposed to leak.

I think, however, because the delimiting ring is not very tall, posible is for the piston to either touch the Teflon gasket or go very near. No one else thinks so, though.

Also, the counter ring, as well as the piston seem to have a microscopic notch in the middle. Thus, the counterpiston must be positioned with the side without a noth towards the Teflon gasket.

I am not sure how Dupont made the Teflon gasket but, looks like, the Teflon is not very heat resistant. Thus, I think, even normal temperatures of the piston and the counterpiston may deform the Teflon gasket.

No one on the forum seems to want to discuss this and I do not know why.

One think for sure : don't even think of going high compression. The compression screw must always be able to move freely either way. Run the engine on low compression only and start at low compression.

For electric start, make sure the compression screw is one quarter unscrewed.

The cylinder has a delimiting

i never heard of this ring
and i have never seen one


and for the heat of teflon
teflon can handle verry high heat
that is why we use it in pans as a anti stick agent

but under constand pressure and suction it will tear

i wonder why there is no shop that sells metal disks

and for the counterpiston having a dimple
mine does not have one it is totaly flat

but mine is one of the firsth diesel bombers

robot797 wrote:The cylinder has a delimiting

i never heard of this ring
and i have never seen one


and for the heat of teflon
teflon can handle verry high heat
that is why we use it in pans as a anti stick agent

but under constand pressure and suction it will tear

i wonder why there is no shop that sells metal disks

and for the counterpiston having a dimple
mine does not have one it is totaly flat

but mine is one of the firsth diesel bombers

The notches are microscopic and can bearly be seen. Unlikely to do anything. However, Teflon is a nasty matetial. I have never seen a pot or pan where the Teflon would not wear after a few cookings. Scratches easily.

Metal gaskets instead of Teflon will preclude the protection of shattering.

The Teflon gaskets sits on the delimiting ring of the cylinder and does not fall into. Copper gasket, wider than the delimiter may help. Also any Copper gasket would lift the Teflon gasket. I am afraid a narrow Copper gasket may break and or fall into the cylinder.

In case your engine does not have any delimiter on what do you seat the Teflon and the Copper gaskets?

i have never heard or seen that ring on a cox engine

mine just sits on the head gasket

and that has the same internal size as the cylinder

Most people I have seen shut the engines by closing the Air Valve ( Throttle ) thus stopping the air. I have also been doing so.

However, in case a restart is to be done, the best way is to open the compression screw until the engine shuts down. Thus, there would be fuel in the crankcase for the next restart.

Beware not to flood the engine, though. Rotate gently and slowly in the direction of rotation at extremely low compression to check for flooding.

With fuel in the crankcase, the engine can be restarted either at one or two compression through spring starts or full spring starts.

robot797 wrote:i have never heard or seen that ring on a cox engine

mine just sits on the head gasket

and that has the same internal size as the cylinder

And what does the head gasket sit on?

the cylinder
the same way as in all cox engines
exept the ones that have been run on heet mixed with castor

robot797 wrote:the cylinder
the same way as in all cox engines
exept the ones that have been run on heet mixed with castor

Where on the cylinder. The cylinder is cylindric. Anything would fall through. There must be something inside to hold the Copper gasket.

as you can see from this picture


there is a rim under the treads of the glow/diesel head

there is the head gasket
not ontop of the piston or floating

So far, I have been doing something wrong. I have been decreasing all fuel components by 1 to 2 percent to add Cetane Booster. Next, I would decrease the amount of Kerosene and put Cetane Booster instead of Kerosene.

Thus, the standard fuel would be : 40% Ether, 30% Kerosene, 25% Castor Oil, 5% Cetane Booster.

Because I use medical Castor Oil, I may even decrease the amount of Castor Oil to 20% and increase the amount of Ether to 45%.

i still dont use cetane boosters

not even for my russian mk17

robot797 wrote:as you can see from this picture


there is a rim under the treads of the glow/diesel head

there is the head gasket
not ontop of the piston or floating

Exactly. I call this rim a delimiter or delimiting ring.

This is where I put the Teflon gasket. And, thanks to your help, I will probably put one or a few Copper gaskets there and, on top of them, I would put the Teflon gasket. I hope this would not only strenghten the Teflon gasket but lift up too not to touch the piston.

We have been talking the same things with different names. The rim stops the gaskets from falling and, I think, the piston grom going up.

When the compression screw is tightened, the lower than the rim diameter counterpiston pushes the Teflon gasket down which may bend and touch the piston. Hence the melting, thinning and punching.

lol

that is kind of anoying

but the puruse of the head gasket is not to stop the piston from touching things

it sets the combustion chamber and the ignition timing

the piston stops on the edge of the cylinder by itself
and if you turn the compression all the way up the gasget hits the piston

robot797 wrote:lol

that is kind of anoying

but the puruse of the head gasket is not to stop the piston from touching things

it sets the combustion chamber and the ignition timing

the piston stops on the edge of the cylinder by itself
and if you turn the compression all the way up the gasget hits the piston

I will check the piston and the cylinder disassembled when I go home.

I now think when I try to push the piston into the cylinder by finger, the piston will be stoppod by the rim.

Cetane Booster is sold in every automotive shop in Holand and will make your engine sustain work better and give you more power.

In the UK, thet sel amil nitrate which is supposed to be better.

i dont think you got that right

more kerozene is more power

more ether is easyer starting

2% cetanebooster is for a stable run

i dont think the booster gives more power

robot797 wrote:i dont think you got that right

more kerozene is more power

more ether is easyer starting

2% cetanebooster is for a stable run

i dont think the booster gives more power

I think the booster chemically reacts with the Kerosene to provide more power per compression. Just like putting a new, different fuel instead of Kerosene. I do not know whether the booster slows and evens the burning throughout the working cycle or, the opposite, makes the fuel more explosive. I know the booster makes Kerosene ignite faster and easier.

As far as Ether is concerned, true, Ether is for ignition and true, Ether makes the start easier. However, more Ether does also ensure a fuller Kerosene burning which means power.

Thus, I think the more the Ether the more the power UP TO A GIVEN POINT. The same as the bigger the spark the more the power up to a point with a standard gadoline engine.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:lol

that is kind of anoying

but the puruse of the head gasket is not to stop the piston from touching things

it sets the combustion chamber and the ignition timing

the piston stops on the edge of the cylinder by itself
and if you turn the compression all the way up the gasget hits the piston

I will check the piston and the cylinder disassembled when I go home.

I now think when I try to push the piston into the cylinder by finger, the piston will be stoppod by the rim.

Cetane Booster is sold in every automotive shop in Holand and will make your engine sustain work better and give you more power.

In the UK,  thet sel amil nitrate which is supposed to be better.

Checked the piston and the rim. Inserted the piston into the cylinder. Pushed the piston with a finger. The piston goes nice and easy up. Stops at the rim. Pushed more. Does not go through the rim.

then the cylinder it tapered

robot797 wrote:then the cylinder it tapered

Again : the piston is stopped by the rim and touches the rim. Moved easily before. Stopped fully when touched.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:

robot797 wrote:then the cylinder it tapered

Again : the piston is stopped by the rim and touches the rim. Moved easily before. Stopped fully when touched.

The same was the case when brand new.