Medical Castor Oil and Other

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:51 am

As mentioned, the medical Castor Oil I have used has a huge viscosity and clings very well to metal.

Thus, I have been thinking of a possibility to reduce the amount of Castor Oil and increase the amount of fuel and get a better performance and, most importantly, an easier start ( although the start problems I have had have been due to a clog in the fuel intake line, I think ).

I think, 20% medical Castor Oil would be good enough, even better than 25% industrial Castor Oil. Some sources cite 12.5% Castor Oil. Medical Castor Oil may be ideal for such low amount. The drag, however, may not be reduced significantly because of the qualities of the medical Castor Oil.

I also think to put such a thin crankshaft pin on these engines is not a good idea. I would be happy to have twice as thick with a piston rod assembly twice as large in diameter. This would provide a better strength. Also, more friction which is not good. The only reason I can see as to why they have made the pin so thin is to reduce friction.

And again : these engines are screaming for real bearings at the crankshaft and crankcase near the drive plate. These would reduce friction and would also eliminate wear from the crankcase and put all the wear on the drive plate. The fuel will provide excellent oiling of the real bearings.

The airplanes do also experience inward propeller force when the airplane flies perpendicular to the ground ( like Stuka bombers ) getting the force from the gravity and the propeller spins at such RPM as to not be able to provide a higher than the gravity flying speed.

As I mentioned, I was not into flying but, in case I was, I would fly only high speed down as much as I can and using " normal " flying just not to hit the ground.

For reference : Stuka Bombers were one of the greatest invention of the WW2. The pilots would find their target and fly down driven by gravity towards the target with pin point precision. When reaching the target, they would release the bomb with an accuracy similar to the modern laser or GPS guided rockets.

On one hand, they look easy to shoot BUT the speed they fly towards the ground is so huge, shooting them may prove more difficult than shooting a high flying standard bomber.

Because there are so many airplane enthusiasts on this forum, I would strongly recommend making models of Stuka bombers. Here is so more information : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junkers_Ju_87

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:58 am

Cox International delisted the diesel propellers http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-killer-bee-diesel-crank.html pending a new order which would arrive in May.

So, I do not have a propeller and I cannot get any from Cox.

Thus, again, in case anyone has such, please, advise. I am able to pay for the propeller or to offer to purchase a brand new one for the person who sends the propeller to be received in May. Whichever option you prefer.

Old, used, second hand, everything would work before the new ones come and then I can get the new ones. A question of a month only.

Otherwise, I have to sit and wait for the new ones to arrive.

Also, I do not know for sure, but, just by knowing Cox International, I think the new ones would be much stronger and better than the old ones made of high quality metals. Thus, you can send your old one and get a new one in a month. In case you have some in stock, you may be able to trade them for brand new ones which are expected to be better and you would still have the same stock, just with better components.

**Admin** Thu Apr 30, 2015 12:20 pm

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:Cox International delisted the diesel propellers http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-killer-bee-diesel-crank.html pending a new order which would arrive in May.

Do you mean crankshaft?

If you haven't yet, give one of these a try http://www.ebay.com/itm/COX-Eng-049-Heavy-Duty-Killer-Crankshaft-for-more-power-/231154807415 These are the original Davis Diesel cranks that have been in production for close to 40 years. Don't abandon Cox International's cranks but just give one of these a try as they are different. Not sure if you noticed or someone else mentioned this yet or not but when dealing with crankcases and crankshafts, you'll want to find a good fitting shaft and case set. Some may have a loose fit, some may be a little tight. Maybe Bernie (Cox International) can fit a shaft to a case for you if you order an assembly.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 12:51 pm

Admin wrote:
StevenStanleyBayes wrote:Cox International delisted the diesel propellers http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-killer-bee-diesel-crank.html pending a new order which would arrive in May.

Do you mean crankshaft?

If you haven't yet, give one of these a try http://www.ebay.com/itm/COX-Eng-049-Heavy-Duty-Killer-Crankshaft-for-more-power-/231154807415 These are the original Davis Diesel cranks that have been in production for close to 40 years. Don't abandon Cox International's cranks but just give one of these a try as they are different. Not sure if you noticed or someone else mentioned this yet or not but when dealing with crankcases and crankshafts, you'll want to find a good fitting shaft and case set. Some may have a loose fit, some may be a little tight. Maybe Bernie (Cox International) can fit a shaft to a case for you if you order an assembly.

Yes, I meant a crankshaft, not a propeller, sorry.

Bernie said they did not have any and the new order was to arrive in Msy.

I thank you for the link. I would love to get one of these but, are you sure they would fit? One of the things I worry is whether they would fit the crankcase. Otherwise, the oiling construction of Cox is better but not a big deal.

**Admin** Thu Apr 30, 2015 12:57 pm

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:
I thank you for the link. I would love to get one of these but, are you sure they would fit? One of the things I worry is whether they would fit the crankcase. Otherwise, the oiling construction of Cox is better but not a big deal.

Yes, these Davis Diesel cranks will fit a standard Cox crankcase.

roddie Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:00 pm

Hi again Steven, Here's a link to where you can obtain a "Phenolic" thrust-washer if want to give it a try.

http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-thrust-washer-phenolic-3.html

Below are links to some discussion on their use here on the forum.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t2160-thrust-washer?highlight=thrust+washer

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7740-thrust-washer-and-reed-help-please?highlight=thrust+washer

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:05 pm

Admin wrote:
StevenStanleyBayes wrote:
I thank you for the link. I would love to get one of these but, are you sure they would fit? One of the things I worry is whether they would fit the crankcase. Otherwise, the oiling construction of Cox is better but not a big deal.

Yes, these Davis Diesel cranks will fit a standard Cox crankcase.

Thanks. I trust you and the rest in the forum. I have already ordered the recommended by you one from eBay.

Once Cox receive them, I I would order 2 or more just to stock up.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:08 pm

roddie wrote:Hi again Steven, Here's a link to where you can obtain a "Phenolic" thrust-washer if want to give it a try.

http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-thrust-washer-phenolic-3.html

Below are links to some discussion on their use here on the forum.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t2160-thrust-washer?highlight=thrust+washer

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7740-thrust-washer-and-reed-help-please?highlight=thrust+washer

Thanks a lot. I will definitely get these.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:11 pm

Thanks for your immediate support. Because of your immediate and accurate replies, I have ordered the Davis Diesel crankshaft and will order the thrust washers which I have not known of.

Please, keep up the good support.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:21 pm

I have naver fought in the forum and I will have never done so.

However, I have some very strong opinions which I have been expressing for around 25 years. One of them is the oppinion all engines, not RC only but all, must have real bearings between the piston rod assembly and the crankshaft as well as between the upper piston and the piston rod as well as between the shaft and the block. No rotation without real bearings.

I have been an advocate of this idea for more than quarter of a century.

Sorry in case this or other advocating oppinions have sounded like a fight.

I call real bearings these stand alone components which have two rings and balls, cylinders or barrels in between.

Because of the spread of the force, such are possible to be made tiny yet strong. Thus, one can replace the bial rings of a tank with real bearings and the tank would rust out before the real bearings wear off. Put some Titanium in the equation and you will never need to change the bial rings of your cars.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:44 pm

Ordered the 25W 50 Ohm Potentiometer at AliExpress.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:08 pm

Just ordered 2 sets of thrust washers, 4 right hand springs, 4 propeller screws and 3 Aluminium drive plates ( hexagonal drive nuts ) from Cox. Afraid to use Brass drive plate as Brass is hard.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:06 pm

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:
roddie wrote:Hi again Steven, Here's a link to where you can obtain a "Phenolic" thrust-washer if want to give it a try.

http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-thrust-washer-phenolic-3.html

Below are links to some discussion on their use here on the forum.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t2160-thrust-washer?highlight=thrust+washer

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7740-thrust-washer-and-reed-help-please?highlight=thrust+washer

Thanks a lot. I will definitely get these.

I ordered the thrust washers. However, Iwonder whether the thrust washers are strong enough to withstand the strong and multiple spring starts.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:09 pm

I cannot imagine how I would fit the new crankshaft on the drive plate. I hope I can insert the crankshaft into the drive plate and slightly finger squeeze to make sure teeth do not hit teeth but go in between. Then, I hope I can turn the engine so the drive plate is supported on a piece of wood and then, with a finger inside the crankcase, I press to make the crankshaft go into the drive plate. The problem is I am not sure whether I would be able to press strongly enough.

StevenStanleyBayes Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:10 pm

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:
Admin wrote:
StevenStanleyBayes wrote:
I thank you for the link. I would love to get one of these but, are you sure they would fit? One of the things I worry is whether they would fit the crankcase. Otherwise, the oiling construction of Cox is better but not a big deal.

Yes, these Davis Diesel cranks will fit a standard Cox crankcase.

Thanks. I trust you and the rest in the forum. I have already ordered the recommended by you one from eBay.

Once Cox receive them, I I would order 2 or more just to stock up.

I cannot imagine how I would fit the new crankshaft on the drive plate. I hope I can insert the crankshaft into the drive plate and slightly finger squeeze to make sure teeth do not hit teeth but go in between. Then, I hope I can turn the engine so the drive plate is supported on a piece of wood and then, with a finger inside the crankcase, I press to make the crankshaft go into the drive plate. The problem is I am not sure whether I would be able to press strongly enough.

dckrsn Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:54 pm

Steven, check this thread.
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t854p2-how-to-install-the-driveplate-on-049
Hope it helps.
Bob

**Cribbs74** Thu Apr 30, 2015 5:05 pm

It's pretty simple.

Just install a prop and tighten the screw. It will act as a press. Just be sure to use a washer under the screw head.

Edit: nevermind, Bob beat me to it.

Oldenginerod Fri May 01, 2015 4:24 am

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:...all engines... must have real bearings between the piston rod assembly and the crankshaft as well as between the upper piston and the piston rod as well as between the shaft and the block. No rotation without real bearings.

I call real bearings these stand alone components which have two rings and balls, cylinders or barrels in between.

Pretty much all automotive and heavy industrial engines use only bush type "slipper" bearings, meaning they have no moving parts. Wrist pins (connection between piston & rod) generally use a bronze bush and both the lower rod bearing and main crankshaft bearings are steel backed "white metal" or babbitt bearings. This has been the "norm" for more than a century.
Rollers or balls are only really used in smaller high performance engines, such as R/C engines, motorcycle or light industrial (chainsaw) engines.

Rod

StevenStanleyBayes Fri May 01, 2015 11:10 am

dckrsn wrote:Steven, check this thread.
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t854p2-how-to-install-the-driveplate-on-049
Hope it helps.
Bob

I cannot imagine how stupid I can be not to think of the possibility of using the screw to tighten and, thus, move the drive plate onto the crankshaft. Thank you for this information.

I have also ordered a crankshaft installation tool from Cox for $2.95 : http://coxengines.ca/assembly-tool-for-cox-.049-engines.html which does exactly the same : has a screw to push the crankshaft into the drive plate. $2.95 is a very good price to get this although, as you have pointed out, a simple propeller screw and a nut and or the propeller would do just as good.

To come out or go deeper into stupidity, I am interested in the tool from another point of view : I may be able to use this as a propeller screw extension depending on how big, heavy and strong the tool is. Unlikely to happen but a good thing just to see.

StevenStanleyBayes Fri May 01, 2015 11:10 am

Cribbs74 wrote:It's pretty simple.

Just install a prop and tighten the screw. It will act as a press. Just be sure to use a washer under the screw head.

Edit: nevermind, Bob beat me to it.

I cannot imagine how stupid I can be not to think of the possibility of using the screw to tighten and, thus, move the drive plate onto the crankshaft. Thank you for this information.

I have also ordered a crankshaft installation tool from Cox for $2.95 : http://coxengines.ca/assembly-tool-for-cox-.049-engines.html which does exactly the same : has a screw to push the crankshaft into the drive plate. $2.95 is a very good price to get this although, as you have pointed out, a simple propeller screw and a nut and or the propeller would do just as good.

To come out or go deeper into stupidity, I am interested in the tool from another point of view : I may be able to use this as a propeller screw extension depending on how big, heavy and strong the tool is. Unlikely to happen but a good thing just to see.

StevenStanleyBayes Fri May 01, 2015 11:19 am

Oldenginerod wrote:
StevenStanleyBayes wrote:...all engines... must have real bearings between the piston rod assembly and the crankshaft as well as between the upper piston and the piston rod as well as between the shaft and the block. No rotation without real bearings.

I call real bearings these stand alone components which have two rings and balls, cylinders or barrels in between.

Pretty much all automotive and heavy industrial engines use only bush type "slipper" bearings, meaning they have no moving parts. Wrist pins (connection between piston & rod) generally use a bronze bush and both the lower rod bearing and main crankshaft bearings are steel backed "white metal" or babbitt bearings. This has been the "norm" for more than a century.
Rollers or balls are only really used in smaller high performance engines, such as R/C engines, motorcycle or light industrial (chainsaw) engines.

Rod

Good to hear they use them in RC and light.

I think, regardless of the materials they use for the slippers, rollers can do much better. Before, they thought rollers may break. They would not have. Just they needed a bigger size. Now, they can even use a normal size. Puts a tiny weight on the engine which is negligible. The slippers would wear off sooner and damage the crankshaft more than rollers. Well, not exactly. Rollers, when they break, depending on how they break may cause a huge damage to the block, the pistons, the rods, the crankshaft : the whole engine. Very unlikely is to break this way.

Please, note, some heavy industrial machinery have had these for years working at much higher pressure and, in some cases, huge RPM and high temperature, even without oiling : just greasing once every few years.

Automotive is the only stubborn industry which still, in the Titanium age, does not want to use them.

Titanium alloys are expensive but they need a tiny amount of Titanium only. Another $100 on the top of the car price. Titanium is light but the rollers may put another few grams of weight.

Anyway, in case anyone can think of any reason why they do not use them, please inform.

StevenStanleyBayes Fri May 01, 2015 11:28 am

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:
Oldenginerod wrote:
StevenStanleyBayes wrote:...all engines... must have real bearings between the piston rod assembly and the crankshaft as well as between the upper piston and the piston rod as well as between the shaft and the block. No rotation without real bearings.

I call real bearings these stand alone components which have two rings and balls, cylinders or barrels in between.

Pretty much all automotive and heavy industrial engines use only bush type "slipper" bearings, meaning they have no moving parts. Wrist pins (connection between piston & rod) generally use a bronze bush and both the lower rod bearing and main crankshaft bearings are steel backed "white metal" or babbitt bearings. This has been the "norm" for more than a century.
Rollers or balls are only really used in smaller high performance engines, such as R/C engines, motorcycle or light industrial (chainsaw) engines.

Rod

Good to hear they use them in RC and light.

I think, regardless of the materials they use for the slippers, rollers can do much better. Before, they thought rollers may break. They would not have. Just they needed a bigger size. Now, they can even use a normal size. Puts a tiny weight on the engine which is negligible. The slippers would wear off sooner and damage the crankshaft more than rollers. Well, not exactly. Rollers, when they break, depending on how they break may cause a huge damage to the block, the pistons, the rods, the crankshaft : the whole engine. Very unlikely is to break this way.

Please, note, some heavy industrial machinery have had these for years working at much higher pressure and, in some cases, huge RPM and high temperature, even without oiling : just greasing once every few years.

Automotive is the only stubborn industry which still, in the Titanium age, does not want to use them.

Titanium alloys are expensive but they need a tiny amount of Titanium only. Another $100 on the top of the car price. Titanium is light but the rollers may put another few grams of weight.

Anyway, in case anyone can think of any reason why they do not use them, please inform.

I do not want to look up more but I have had a quick look to find they use them in conveyers, excavation, bulldozers, etcetera : a multi ton applications.

StevenStanleyBayes Fri May 01, 2015 1:25 pm

In case any of you has had this problem, please comment. Otherwise, please, comment too.

I have had two gaskets which have the same symptom : the gaskets seem to work but, after a while, they either get partially punched or they get a weak point in the middle. Looks like either the piston touches the gasket or the counter piston gets hot and thins or punches the gasket or the two thereof.

Because the thin or punched point is in the middle, this does not seem to affect the compression to a great deal although I am not sure to what extend the compression is decreased or becomes more difficult to control ( the screw has to move just less than a millimetre to change the compression at higher settings, I. e. becomes very sensitive ), I am not even sure whether this thin point or punched point even affects the compression.

I have been trying not to tighten the compression screw too much.

Regardless, I have two simple questions :

1. The Teflon gasket has a dome on one side and is flat on the other unless I am mistaken or have not seen well. Which is the correct way to install the gasket? DOME UP OR DOME DOWN?

2. Is this thin spot in the gasket normal? Has this happened to anyone else? This has happened twice in two consecutive disassemblies of the head.

Here are the answers from Cox :

1. No difference but to push them in with the dome facing down, i.e. with the “grain” instead of against is easier.
2. Seal failure is the result of one or more of these : Overrevving, Overcompressing, Wrong fuel mixture

I have installed one of the gaskets dome up and I do not remember how I have installed the other. I have been using correct fuel with the second one though I have been doing experiments. I have not been over compressing, although, on occasion, I may have tightened the screw slightly more to initiate a start.

robot797 Fri May 01, 2015 2:50 pm

i also had little bits of damage in the teflon disk
and also tearout on the edges from tightning

were did you put you head gasget? (the little copper ring)

StevenStanleyBayes Fri May 01, 2015 3:13 pm

robot797 wrote:i also had little bits of damage in the teflon disk
and also tearout on the edges from tightning

were did you put you head gasget? (the little copper ring)

I do not have ahead gasket nor a cylinder to crankcase gasket. The head is directly screwed onto the cylinder and the cylinder is directly screwed into the crankcase.

This is why tightening of these is very important although the thread is fine. When I was disassembling the engine I noticed these are well screwed but not very tight. They loosen up from the vibrations. This is why checking them before each start is so important and I keep forgetting this.

I do not want to use the tightening liquids although some of them can take a lot of heat. I must also be able yo dissassemble the engine.

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