CEF speed contest Design Discussions (2014)

Looking good JPVelo! The Corsair has been one of my favourite planes ever since I watched that TV-series about Pappy Boyington and the Black Sheep many moons ago.

Just a thought about the bellcrank location... You could keep the lead-out guide above the wing tip, then run the lead-outs through the downward-pointing part of the wing and mount your bellcrank under the belly. You may even be able to modify your cowling so that the bellcrank would be away from the airflow, sort of "streamlined". The rules state that the bellcrank should be visible, otherwise it might even be able to hide it inside the cowl.

Again, just an idea from a novice

KariFS wrote:Looking good JPVelo! The Corsair has been one of my favourite planes ever since I watched that TV-series about Pappy Boyington and the Black Sheep many moons ago.

Just a thought about the bellcrank location... You could keep the lead-out guide above the wing tip, then run the lead-outs through the downward-pointing part of the wing and mount your bellcrank under the belly. You may even be able to modify your cowling so that the bellcrank would be away from the airflow, sort of "streamlined". The rules state that the bellcrank should be visible, otherwise it might even be able to hide it inside the cowl.

Again, just an idea from a novice

Thanks Kari!
I actually thought about doing just that but decided to tuck it behind the nacelle.

Jim

Here's a link to the "Tourqette" article and plan. This is a 1/2a proto speed plane designed by Dale Kirn. I'm posting it to show the front leadout located slightly forward of the cg.

http://www.kotrc.org/events/torquette.pdf

JPvelo wrote:Here's a link to the "Tourqette" article and plan. This is a 1/2a proto speed plane designed by Dale Kirn. I'm posting it to show the front leadout located slightly forward of the cg.

http://www.kotrc.org/events/torquette.pdf

Oh Man! What a sweet little design that is!!!!!

That is SWEET !!! and if 10 yr. old Jimmy can fly it maybe I could is that a legal plane for building (the race)??

Looks like a Baby Clown Bi-plane!

Cool.

JPvelo wrote:Here's a link to the "Tourqette" article and plan. This is a 1/2a proto speed plane designed by Dale Kirn. I'm posting it to show the front leadout located slightly forward of the cg.

http://www.kotrc.org/events/torquette.pdf

That is pretty cool. The aluminum plate should not scare anybody away from it as it should be an easy cut (not fast, just easy) using a coping saw and a bench pin (a bench pin is a 1x4 clamped to the bench hanging off a bit with a fork cut in the end of it.)

Phil

I personally see no need for the plate. Dale Kirn's Torquey which is essentially the single wing version same construction didn't use it. Truth be told, the problem with small 1/2A's is keeping heat within them and not trying to dissipate it. The only time the plate would be effective is when the engine isn't running and the upper cylinder heat would quickly heat soak through the case and onto the plate. This in turn in my opinion could assist restarts. Aside from that I see no reason to use it.

getback wrote:That is SWEET !!! and if 10 yr. old Jimmy can fly it maybe I could  is that a legal plane for building (the race)??

Eric,
Unfortunately not legal for the race, just some good speed plane info.

If I were to build a biplane for the Tee Dee class it would be this:

http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww2/f/22/83/0

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avia_B-534

The dimensions are near perfect.

Jim

roddie wrote:

JPvelo wrote:Here's a link to the "Tourqette" article and plan. This is a 1/2a proto speed plane designed by Dale Kirn. I'm posting it to show the front leadout located slightly forward of the cg.

http://www.kotrc.org/events/torquette.pdf

Oh Man! What a sweet little design that is!!!!!

There may be a 150% version in store for the sportsman .15 I just picked up on eBay.

Ken Cook wrote:I personally see no need for the plate. Dale Kirn's Torquey which is essentially the single wing version same construction didn't use it. Truth be told, the problem with small 1/2A's is keeping heat within them and not trying to dissipate it. The only time the plate would be effective is when the engine isn't running and the upper cylinder heat would quickly heat soak through the case and onto the plate. This in turn in my opinion could assist restarts. Aside from that I see no reason to use it.

I wonder if the plate.. along with the 3/8" sq. hardwood beams would help to dampen the tank from vibration/fuel-bubbles?  It certainly makes for a sturdy nose and mid-fuse, as well as providing for a nice strong fuse-mounted bell-crank too.

It appeals to me because the design incorporates some thinking outside the box which isn't always a good idea.. either because it's more work than necessary.. than a simple design that accomplishes the same thing.. or it adds weight, when compared to a more conventional design. I like seeing how different modelers design strength into their Speed-ships.

I'd like to see one of your Norvel engines on a Torquette!

OK, does a "tandem" wing aircraft fall under biplane rules? The span of the forward and aft wings are nearly the same.

Phil

pkrankow wrote:OK, does a "tandem" wing aircraft fall under biplane rules?  The span of the forward and aft wings are nearly the same.  

Phil

Go for it!!

Sounds like fun!

JPvelo wrote:

pkrankow wrote:OK, does a "tandem" wing aircraft fall under biplane rules?  The span of the forward and aft wings are nearly the same.  

Phil

Go for it!!

Sounds like fun!

Alright. I might have to. 12.5 inch wingspan sounds pretty nice!

Problem is the example I am looking at has fixed LG AND wing struts... just added drag. I could omit the struts I suppose.

Phil

JPvelo wrote:Mike,
I plan on using an external bladder secured through the spring end of a safety pin.

Greetings JPvelo!  I really like your model .... it's sooooo kool!  I would like to know where you got your wheels from or if you made them, just how did you do it because I'l like to acquire 3 or 4 sets for my "little birds".

Jim Carter

modelbuilder49 wrote:
Greetings JPvelo!  I really like your model .... it's sooooo kool!  I would like to know where you got your wheels from or if you made them, just how did you do it because I'l like to acquire 3 or 4 sets for my "little birds".

Jim Carter

Jim,
Thank you. I believe they are Glenn Lee racing wheels. I put the word out on Stunthanger that I was looking for them and someone came through. It's been long enough ago that I don't remember who it was.

Jim

Jim,
Thank you. I believe they are Glenn Lee racing wheels. I put the word out on Stunthanger that I was looking for them and someone came through. It's been long enough ago that I don't remember who it was.

Jim[/quote]Okee dokee!

Jim

Google ed it http://www.planethobby.com/collections/vendors?q=glenn+lee There are other sites that have them too , mite get me some Thanks

getback wrote:Google ed it   http://www.planethobby.com/collections/vendors?q=glenn+lee  There are other sites that have them too , mite get me some Thanks  

"sold out"

every return I found was also sold out.

I think adapting a hole saw to use a wire drill, or no center drill (drill press) might allow making something similar out of available plastic sheets.

Been working on this for a few days. Just as my Rare Bear; I'm scaling directly from a screen-shot on my laptop.. and  eyeballing to a large degree. The nice thing.. is the fuse's profile image I'm working from, is the size of the model.



Laid-up my laminated fuse.. 3mil luan-ply sides with 1/16" balsa sheet in-between.

Before I get too far.. I have a wing-area question. Span is at the 15" mono-plane minimum. The root-chord is 4" and the tip-chord is 2" (symmetrical; root to tip). When I do the math.. this works out to the minimum 45 squares.. right?

Not quite

(15 x 4) - ((7.5 x 1/2) x 4)

less the kerf produced by cutting

assuming 20 thou

(sqrt(7.5 x 7.5) + (2 x 2)) x 4 x .020


44.379033012149599050845501529

Make some very small wing tips

If you are making profile tip tanks that might add the span you need.


Jim