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Post  JPvelo Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:07 am

Knot on the back end, o ring secures the nipple. Entire process takes about 30 seconds.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Jan 15, 2014 2:38 am

An o-ring, excellent. I'll have to put that on my Lowes/Advance shopping list. I wonder if a silicon fuel tube donut would be tight enough. I've been using twist tie wire, but the o-ring is the simplest ever. If I ever make a revised video, I'll credit you with the idea, Jim. A 30 second job on a bad day.

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Post  PV Pilot Wed Jan 15, 2014 11:23 am

RknRusty wrote:An o-ring, excellent. I'll have to put that on my Lowes/Advance shopping list. I wonder if a silicon fuel tube donut would be tight enough. I've been using twist tie wire, but the o-ring is the simplest ever. If I ever make a revised video, I'll credit you with the idea, Jim. A 30 second job on a bad day.

Rusty

Maybe a size or two smaller tubing than you are using for the bladder and it would clamp pretty tight I would imagine. Used to use self cut tubing 0rings to secure fuel lines to fuel nipples on my 1/8 scale of road stuff,,it took a great deal of force to remove them and put them on. You don't want to lube them to slide them on,,or they will slip right off. they need to be slid over top of another dry.

a special tool made specifically for sliding o-rings/self cut rings onto fuel lines, big or small. I have seen this in action and works really easy. Doing it by hand is tricky and can be a exercise in paitence.
http://www.gmksupply.com/html/gmk0125.html

A band of supple heat shrink tubing would work,,just don't overhang onto the bladder tubing or it might rub and cut thru when shrunk with a filled bladder.
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:16 pm

I essentially use the same method. I use a piece of fuel tubing like Rusty suggested. Instead of using a fitting, I use a long 1/8" pop rivet and remove the pin. The flared side of the pop rivet goes into the bladder and it makes for a great barb. Ken
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:44 pm

All good ideas. What size O-ring Jim?
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Post  JPvelo Wed Jan 15, 2014 10:05 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:All good ideas. What size O-ring Jim?
Not sure. I went to the hardware store and picked up what looked right. The tubing is 1/8 and I have to squeeze it to get the ring on.

Jim
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Jan 15, 2014 10:31 pm

lol! 

Ok Jim.
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Post  ekitten2 Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:43 am

i would like to know what type of tubing you are using for bladders as most of the ones you use isent available here in Australia (not that ive found at least)
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:51 am

Surgical tubing is what most of us use. Should be readily available everywhere!  Very Happy 
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Post  JPvelo Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:46 am

ekitten2 wrote:i would like to know  what type of tubing you are using  for bladders    as most of the ones you use  isent  available here in Australia (not that ive found at least)
I use 1/8 inch surgical tubing purchased for $1 a foot at a fishing supply store.

Jim
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Post  RknRusty Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:35 pm

JPvelo wrote:
ekitten2 wrote:i would like to know  what type of tubing you are using  for bladders    as most of the ones you use  isent  available here in Australia (not that ive found at least)
I use 1/8 inch surgical tubing purchased for $1 a foot at a fishing supply store.

Jim
That's the stuff, it provides comparatively low pressure tor 1/2A engines. The combat guys that run bigger engines, .25s and up, use wider ID and thicker walled tubing that provides higher pressure. I don't recall the wall thickness on the 1/2A stuff I get from TexasTimers.com. Maybe 1/32 or 3/64".
Rusty

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