Building a control handle

On the cable: Stop at a bike shop and see if the mechanic has any end drops from brake cable replacements. The cables come a foot or so longer than needed for a rear brake, and several feet longer than needed for a front. They have a road type end on one end, and a MTB end on the other. The first thing the mechanic will do is cut off the wrong end so it can be threaded through adjusters and stops, so they always have to use a whole new cable for every front cable replaced. They throw out lots of nice new cable.

Used cables are good also. The wear all happens at the lever and at the brake calipers, so the middle is almost always in fine shape.

Any handle that Sullivan sold or still sells is really not a good choice for control line as I've witnessed the cable slide. The handles that Brodak sells like the Reyco is an exact copy of the Ez-just Hot Rock. This handle is terrific for the sport flyer it good overhang over your hands for proper use and the line spacing is under 4". If your flying both .15-.40, you should probably have two different handles. The .15 size ships are flighty and the wider line to line spacing of a .40 size handle can overcontrol a plane. I'm not suggesting it can't be done, just that having two handles one with a narrower line spacing makes flying much easier. A major factor in proper feel of the plane is the cable in the handle itself. A .40 size handle is going to have a cable of .030" or even greater while a .15 size plane only needs a cable of about .021".

Marcus Rodgers makes these handles which work quite well and they won't break the budget. I use them for combat, I love them for .15 size planes and combat. I use them also for racing. My club members use them for stunt. He will make any handle spacing you desire. Here is a Ebay link he offers a few different spacings. I use the 2.5" handle for 1/2A combat and I've run new cable and necked my line spacing down to 1 7/8". Tell him I sent you. Ken Cook

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Control-Line-Handle-Adjustable-Throw-C-L-Combat-3-5-/150823257178?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item231dc4445a

What a perfect time for this thread to appear. I also use a Sullivan Insta-Just for my .35 sized plane, and I was working on it earlier today trying to use zip ties to retain the cable's shape. They get bent after you re-adjust it , especially if it's been in the same position for a long time. I re-adjusted it when I changed lines before the last time I flew, and the old bends wanted to spring back into their original shape. Any time my lines were not very tight, I could feel them flipping around and my loops were more jerky than usual. For trying to learn precision stunt, this is one imprecise problem I don't need. Thanks for the links.

The Mis-Handled Rusty

Shawn, that E-Flite looks more like a 1/2A size from the clips on the end.  Smaller than I was looking for.

Ken,  I saw those Rogers' handles from an earlier post you made, I think.  They just seem a little flimsy to me.  I'm not going to be using just one handle for the .15-.40 range.  I just need a design that'll work across that range.  I'll make multiple handles, as I don't see myself with more than three or four large planes, and each will get its own handle.  Easier that way for me.  I don't want to have to mess with setting the neutral each time I go to the field.  And, since I'm doing multiple handles, it wouldn't be cost effective to buy the Brodak handles when I could make up my own.  Also, you say .030" and .021" cables for the lines.  Do you know of a chart anywhere that lists recommended cable diameter for differing plane sizes?

Kevbo, I'll check out the local bike shops this weekend and see what they've got.  Thanks for the tip.

Rusty, I thought the tab was a little loose in the slot and the cable a little loose, so I used some yellow electical tape wrapped around the handle to hold it in place.  But, now that I think about it, I might also grab a piece of hemp twine and put that over the cable before re-wrapping it to hold the cable hard against the handle channel, if you understand what I'm thinking. And, thinking more, maybe yellow tennis racquet tape instead of electrical tape? Nah, now I'm just wasting money.

Thanks for the replies, Guys

The Maker Mark

The Sullivan fits my hand very well, and a lot of them don't, because I hold it backwards from the traditional method. I was thinking of finding some limper cables and shortening them. There's no need for 5 or 6 inches of heavy springy cable flopping around.  And some pegs to go in the exit holes to help steady the cables too.  The control inputs on my plane are extremely free moving, and I think the stiff bendy cables are causing me some problems with uniform shapes when they need just a light touch.

I'm looking at pictures on Google right now. I think I can make some based on my hand and find a solution. Actually a plain old Hot Rock might be okay, but not ideal.

If you're looking for a slightly thinner cable, use the derailleur cable instead of brake cable. It's more flexible and less bulky. If your bike shop (or if there isn't one in your location) doesn't have extra, try Wally World --- some will carry replacement cables in the bike section.

Mark
I have the same problem with small handles. Here' s the problem with going with a larger handle, line spacing. We are going to build hard point handles now. We should start them this week or next. Most guys I know build a new handle for every plane, unless the plane is gone. Then they repaint it to match the next plane.

http://stunthanger.com/hobby/product_info.php?cPath=24_45&products_id=83



The idea I to adjust the line spacing pretty close to the spacing of the bellcrank. It makes your stunting smother for lack of a better word. Then you adjust the line length if needed with line clips, a bigger clip on up and a smaller on down or vise versa ( not more than one clip per end). I have plans for one without finger grips, looks very easy to build. If you want I can look for it and scan it to an email (8.5 x 11).

Here is an example of my .15 size handle I made for combat. I made 4 of these with my last being non adjustable. Ken

I really like the "Hot Rock" it works fine for me at this stage of the game.

Ron

Here's one of them we made when we first started. Flexible wire from Tacoma Screw or Acme Tool (which they have in Portland) and the small brass thread adapter.







And just for kicks, a three line handle a friend gave me. Made me Happy, Happy Happy!

After reading pages of ridiculous confusing arguments on various sites about biased vs. un-biased handles, I think I'll drill some holes in my Sullivan at a 3" spacing, same as my bellcrank, put fresh shorter limber cables on it, adjust so neutral is in the natural at-rest position of my wrist and go fly. That position means I exert the same force into wrist deflection for up and down. Meanwhile I'll shop around for, or make, a nice hardpoint handle. I like this one that Duke posted.


The Sullivan is a fine concept too, just needs refining for my personal tastes.

Lots of good ideas, Fellers. I can trace out what I want and make a test handle to see what shape/geometry I like, then do final handles to suit.

Duke, there was a Cox throttle handle like that on eBay a couple of days ago that I meant to bid on. I remembered it about three minutes after it ended and missed out. It went for somewhere around $20-$25. Ah, well.

The Snoozing Mark

re: control line handles

I've flown using red plastic "E-Z Just" handles for maybe fifty years. I have them in two sizes and they well suit my flying. Problem is they are no longer manufactured but they do turn up on "flea bay" from time to time.

Don't care for the Walker "U-Reely" because it's too "clunky" and jambs easily.

SD

SuperDave wrote:re: control line handles

I've flown using red plastic "E-Z Just" handles for maybe fifty years.  I have them in two sizes and they well suit my flying.  Problem is they are no longer manufactured but they do turn up on "flea bay" from time to time.

Don't care for the Walker "U-Reely" because it's too "clunky" and jambs easily.

SD

I to like the ez-just handles. They are easy to find and fairly cheap. The small is to small for me and the larger has the line spacing to wide. Which didn't bother me until I started flying my nobler. Then I went with a smaller line spacing and that fix everything.

Duke:

The CL line spacing on the handle, bellcrank length and the placement of the control rod rods in the bellcrank and control horns all figure into the manner in which the plane responds in flight.

Set up "right" the plane is a pleasure to manuver and performs at it's best.  Kitted planes have these factors illustrated and generally it's good idea to stay within these parameters.  (I know of very few exceptions)

SD

I agree, I just think it matters more on some planes or types of planes than others. Seems to matter most to me so far on flapped planes. Seems the more control surfaces the more it matters.

[quote="duke.johnson"]I agree, I just think it matters more on some planes or types of planes than others.  Seems to matter most to me so far on flapped planes.  Seems the more control surfaces the more it matters.[/quote

It is no less true that too much wing flap defection acts like air brakes especially in consecutive manuvers like loops.   

SD

That's not what I was talking about, I guess more controlable surfaces (not Sq. in.)

Sometimes I get the names mixed up between EZ and Insta Just. I have an older Insta Just, with only two (maybe three ) spacing choices.  I just came from WalMart and looked at the cables on bicycles. The brake cables are too heavy, but the derailer cables are just right. They didn't have spare parts, but I did get a black Koozie for $1.69 to cut my fuel tank pad out of.  At first I looked at mouse pads, but they're all thin now, and 5 bucks... Patooey! The Koozie is perfect. I can taper it into a wedge too.
I'll stop by the bike shop Thursday. We have them all over this greenass town.

batjac wrote:Shawn, that E-Flite looks more like a 1/2A size from the clips on the end.  Smaller than I was looking for.

The Maker Mark

It's actually not a bad handle. One of my c/l flying buddy's got one in a combo with his old Hangar 9 .36 size PT-19 and it worked great.

Shawn