Removing dried Epoxy

You know not a bad idea, masking off the areas I don't want glue. Soap and water you say? Funny, as I have tried to get it off my fingers using soap and water and it never works. I use alcohol for that or just a dry rag.

Ron, the first tip, would not be getting it on there in the first place. Easier said then done. Epoxy is easily cleaned with rubbing alcohol as long as it's not kicking off . It comes right off using alcohol and a towel or Q-tip for finer work. Now that it's dried, I know with Monokote, lacquer thinner doesn't affect the covering. I've taken a rag soaked in lacquer thinner and laid it on the affected area. I can usually get it off with a little scratching then. Don't allow the towel to come into contact with any paint. It usually comes off in it's entirety. I can't speak for the other coverings when using solvents though. I'm a Monokote user. It's amazing how clean you can do a repair once you discover how easily epoxy cleans up after using alcohol to wipe it off. This works great for new construction and repairs. I used to dismiss the idea of using epoxy because of the mess. Now I make inconspicuous repairs using the alcohol. Ken

cribbs74 wrote:You know not a bad idea, masking off the areas I don't want glue. Soap and water you say? Funny, as I have tried to get it off my fingers using soap and water and it never works. I use alcohol for that or just a dry rag.

Once it has kicked soap and water won't work. This is really only useful on long pot life formulas. It works with the Locktite 30 minute product in the large bottles, and West System.

I have used soap and water on unmixed epoxy with good results a number of times.

Phil