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Cast crankcase vs extruded one. Empty Cast crankcase vs extruded one.

Post  MeerschaumSteve Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:28 pm

Have any of you run a cast crankcase engine hard? Any problems with durability?

Would the cast crankcase provide lower temperatures in a car engine perhaps because its thinner, and has the fins on front.

Will the killer bee crank fit it properly?
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:22 pm

I think the cast crankcase would wear out pretty fast in the GTP with the side load from the pinion gear during acceleration. I have worn out the extruded ones before to the point where there is a groove cut in the crankcase from the front bearing journal. The davis deisel crankshaft does not have the bearing relief cut into the crankshaft and would probably last the longest in the crankcase.
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Post  microflitedude Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:16 pm

Yes, the KB crank will fit.
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Post  pkrankow Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:21 pm

If you have a lathe you could bore out a case and use some copper or brass tubing, shrink it in, and make a new bearing that will be 10 or 100 times the durability of the original anodized aluminum.

I won't call it "easy" but it is a straightforward process. The difficulty is the precision.

Phil
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Post  ian1954 Tue Apr 02, 2013 5:31 am

pkrankow wrote:If you have a lathe you could bore out a case and use some copper or brass tubing, shrink it in, and make a new bearing that will be 10 or 100 times the durability of the original anodized aluminum.

I won't call it "easy" but it is a straightforward process. The difficulty is the precision.

Phil

Hi Phil,

I would favour using phosphor bronze as the bearing material but it is a little expensive.

Copper or brass will work fine but copper tends not to last very long - it tends to soften "anneal" as it heats up.

Provision also needs to be made for lubrication. The standard crancases (cast and extruded) have a groove to lubricate the crankshaft. This should be reinstated in the bearing.

I tend to not use a single tube the full length of the crankshaft but use two smaller tubes. Then for the difficult bit - I drill a hole at an angle from where the base of the cylinder head fits to the gap between the two bearing tubes so that this does away with the need for a groove and lubricates the gap between the two bearing tubes.

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