Newbie/getting back into the 1/2a cl fun, quick questions/confirmations

Agree with all of the above. For sport fun flying with Coxes, 25% nitromethane will make your engines last longer than 35%. I don't see enough difference between the two to need more than 25%. Like Ron said, always have at least 20% oil and at LEAST half of that oil should be castor. Plain castor is fine too. I've heard of Coolpower ruining small 1/2A engines.

My favorite paint is Rustoleum spray enamel and Rustoleum light gray automotive primer with filler. The metallic colors are not resistant to fuel, but the rest is good. The nose and engine/tank area will benefit from a coat of thinned epoxy brushed on. Thin with acetone and it's 100% fuel proof.

10# Spiderwire is fine. I usually go a bit thicker to help avoid kinks. It's all much lighter and lower drag than dacron. And it's Teflon coated so no matter how many loops you wind it up with, it still won't bind. It's also AMA approved for sport flying.

ritchs brew at www.ritchsbrew. com has a 20/17 castor syn blend and a 25/20 blend and a lot of other mixes give there website a check. I get my fuel from them and their prices are pretty good and fuel fresh as they blend it themselves.
on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glowplugboy-1-2A-Cox-049-R-C-Model-Airplane-Glow-Fuel-/290310955396?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item4397e1a184
on the net http://www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap2900.html

Welcome to CEF

1. Batteries for glow head: The ones we had as kids were 1.5v and about the size of a 16oz beer can. Would two D cells in parallel work?

Yes, this works fine. You can order a new one from Coxengines.ca or exmodelengines.com or whip one up from parts at radio shack. I made a parallel 3 D-cell which is nice for winter use.

2. Fuel: the guy at the LHS who was old enough to have flown these as a kid said the best choice of fuel he had in stock was Cool Power 15% Omega 4-Stroke Fuel (17% lube of which 30% is castor, 70% synthetic). Is that okay or should I add more castor?

I am running Omega 15% (pink) from Morgan Fuel. I add 8 oz castor to the gallon, there is just enough head space in the full gallon. This drops the nitro % to about 14%, and increases the total oil to about 22%, half castor, half synthetic. (I wrote a simple spreadsheet to do the math) 15% runs fine in these engines, although the higher nitro makes them run better and adjust easier.

3. Lines: dacron, .008 braided steal, or spider wire? If spider wire, which variety and lbs? (I'm starting with 30 ft. dacron for simplicity)

I use 10# Power Pro tied with doubled 5 turn uni-knots. I use fishing snaps with the swivels cut off.

4. Paint: Dope is stupid expensive at the LHS. I've seen old threads that suggest using Duplicolor acrylic enamel (regular colors). Opinions?

Rustoleum "stop rust" and "professional" in solid colors (not metallic) are "fuel proof" after a 2-week cure off time. I am sure other products are too, but these I have used.

Welcome aboard!

Phil

Thanks for the replies! Now I just need to wait (impatiently) for the engines to arrive.

John

flyjsh wrote:Thanks for the replies! Now I just need to wait (impatiently) for the engines to arrive.

John

If you bought them from Cox International, they always say two weeks shipping to locations in the US. But Every time I order, they make it here in 4-5 days. So you may have them sooner than you think.

RknRusty wrote:

flyjsh wrote:Thanks for the replies! Now I just need to wait (impatiently) for the engines to arrive.

John

If you bought them from Cox International, they always say two weeks shipping to locations in the US. But Every time I order, they make it here in 4-5 days. So you may have them sooner than you think.

Except when they take longer.

I usually can expect Bernie's packages in 3-5 days, but sometimes it takes longer. They are always posted the same or next business day, so it is mail that takes the time.

Phil