how to make gaskets

I have made gaskets for larger engines using paper from a brown paper bag. I have used handmade gaskets out of paper from a paper bag on a chainsaw and a weed eater as well as on my cousin's lawnmower engine. I have no idea if my cousin ever had any issues caused by the gasket after I have done it but the chainsaw and the weed eater are still fine. I formed the gaskets by holding the cut piece of paper over the case and then punched the holes for the screws. I then inserted the screws so the piece of paper wouldn't move on me. I took a small hard rubber hammer and taped around the outside and inside edges of the case. Just by tapping, the paper cut or was weakened so it could be torn around the edges. You may not want to do too hard of tapping on your small engine although I don't recall seeing any rounded edges or dings on the other engines I have done it to.

If you don't want to tap on your engine at all, you can take an ink stamp pad and stamp the end of the case in the ink and then onto the brown paper. Then take an xacto knife and cut the gasket out.

Great ideas, Jacob.

Permatex makes this product and I highly suggest it for all who needs a replacement gasket such as a backplate. This is not a replacement for head gaskets. http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm This is an excellent product for this kind of application. It's formulated for alcohol submersion, it doesn't give off acetic acid like some silicone products do and it only dries in a closed environment. Any of the product that oozes out is just wiped off as it will never harden. A little goes a long way so only the smallest tube is required. I keep it in my pit box for emergency use and it has a long shelf life.

That looks like something I need in the arsenal. I've always used the regular black RTV, but never have seen the small tubes of anaerobic goo before.

Too expand on Jacob's idea a bit.

Circular gaskets may be made by holding the gasket material over the hole and then tapping a small ball peen hammer to cut out the holes.

For a little bit thicker material you can use manila folders or playing cards.

George

Made a case gasket(front) for a McCoy .36 today.
This engine has a removable nose assembly as opposed
to a backplate.
Hated every minute of it, but got it done.
I use a drafting compass fitted with a skinny Exacto knife to
cut the inside circle and outside arcs between the screw lugs.
Worked pretty well. I used a sharpened piece of 1/16 copper
tubing to cut the screw holes.
Bob

dckrsn wrote:Made a case gasket(front) for a McCoy .36 today.
This engine has a removable nose assembly as opposed
to a backplate.
Hated every minute of it, but got it done.
I use a drafting compass fitted with a skinny Exacto knife to
cut the inside circle and outside arcs between the screw lugs.
Worked pretty well. I used a sharpened piece of 1/16 copper
tubing to cut the screw holes.
Bob

thanks for the suggestion, what can i make one from?

I used plain 1/64" gasket paper though
there are several options.
Bob

Paper, paper bag, cereal boxes, playing cards, shim stock, leather (not on models though). Many suitable material choices for gasket making.

Easy is if you can press the flat of the part into the material with a soft backing under the material, and an "ink" on the material. Dark colored grease is a good ink, sometimes sold as "axle" grease. You probably have some in the garage. Sharpie pen can work for small parts too, draw it on heavy and quickly press into the material. Ink pads for rubber stamps are awesome, but clean-up can be a pain.

Now the fun part, cutting the gasket out. Rarely you can use the mating part to shear the gasket. On models this usually results in a broken part, but it sometimes works on full-size applications with heavy steel parts. Your best bets are razor or x-acto knives on self-healing mats, or fine tip scissors. You can use drill bits to clean screw holes before or during test fits (don't mar threads!), or even cut away screw holes and forget about them in some cases! (bad idea with "delicate" parts) Best thing is the outer edge can be left ragged frequently, clean up after assembly.

For cutting perfect holes using a hole cutter is great. Frequently you can use a socket wrench and a hammer to pinch a hole against a heavy steel plate. (For a gasket or two you won't damage the socket, but the risk of damage increases quickly) If the inside surface needs a tight fit this can be trimmed out with scissors, or pressed over the part and trimmed out with a razor blade in place. You can also fit the screws in place then trim to the inside of the hole with an x-acto knife.

Yes, I have made a few gaskets before, some for model airplane engines, most for antique outboard engines.

Phil

pkrankow wrote:Paper, paper bag, cereal boxes, playing cards, shim stock, leather (not on models though). Many suitable material choices for gasket making.

Easy is if you can press the flat of the part into the material with a soft backing under the material, and an "ink" on the material. Dark colored grease is a good ink, sometimes sold as "axle" grease. You probably have some in the garage. Sharpie pen can work for small parts too, draw it on heavy and quickly press into the material. Ink pads for rubber stamps are awesome, but clean-up can be a pain.

Now the fun part, cutting the gasket out. Rarely you can use the mating part to shear the gasket. On models this usually results in a broken part, but it sometimes works on full-size applications with heavy steel parts. Your best bets are razor or x-acto knives on self-healing mats, or fine tip scissors. You can use drill bits to clean screw holes before or during test fits (don't mar threads!), or even cut away screw holes and forget about them in some cases! (bad idea with "delicate" parts) Best thing is the outer edge can be left ragged frequently, clean up after assembly.

For cutting perfect holes using a hole cutter is great. Frequently you can use a socket wrench and a hammer to pinch a hole against a heavy steel plate. (For a gasket or two you won't damage the socket, but the risk of damage increases quickly) If the inside surface needs a tight fit this can be trimmed out with scissors, or pressed over the part and trimmed out with a razor blade in place. You can also fit the screws in place then trim to the inside of the hole with an x-acto knife.

Yes, I have made a few gaskets before, some for model airplane engines, most for antique outboard engines.

Phil

thanks for the wealth of information guys ill be sure to make the gaskets exactly as you described Phil

How did it go?
Phil