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Post  Admin Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:46 am

Steve Carlin wrote:
Admin wrote:I have burred two cylinders in the past, one from a Estes Black Widow and the other from an early Babe Bee. I have fixed both by taking a (trashed/worn) piston and placing it into the cylinder, screwing it onto a crankcase and then just slowly turning it over until it gets looser and looser. Once it was quite loose but you could still feel it "hanging up", I just started up an old electric motor with a rubber wheel on it and made it spin the engine over (while oiling the piston and shaft every so often). I looked at the cylinder every so often to notice the shiny dot in the corner of the port going away. After I thought it was even loose enough to start up, I hit it with some #0000 steel wool.

You don't want to use a piston to do this! Although the burr does "go away" as the piston goes past the spot, the piston is grinding on the cylinder on the opposite wall across of the burr thus wearing that spot down. This will result in case pressure loss and perhaps cylinder compression loss. There could even be more wear on the engine as the piston will no longer go up and down perfectly straight.

I would suggest sitting under a magnified lamp and using an Xacto knife to carefully remove the burr and then finishing it with Grade #0000 Super Fine Steel Wool.

Well, I have never had any problem doing this. The engines now run fine with these cylinders.

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Post  PV Pilot Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:48 am

Most likely a burr in the cylinder, then grabbing the driveplate and rotating the piston up there to feel the tight spot,,back and fourth, scratch, scratch, scratch.
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Post  microflitedude Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:54 am

PV Pilot wrote:Most likely a burr in the cylinder, then grabbing the driveplate and rotating the piston up there to feel the tight spot,,back and fourth, scratch, scratch, scratch.

Makes sense, but the scratch is horizontal to the cylinder... not vertical.
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Post  PV Pilot Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:00 pm

microflitedude wrote:
PV Pilot wrote:Most likely a burr in the cylinder, then grabbing the driveplate and rotating the piston up there to feel the tight spot,,back and fourth, scratch, scratch, scratch.

Makes sense, but the scratch is horizontal to the cylinder... not vertical.

It's like a needle on a record player (I know, old school),, the burr works it's way across by high siding the piston and causing it to rotate since it is a ball and socket wrist pin confing. If it was a actuall wrist pin setup,,where you have a pin thru a hole in the piston to keep the piston from rotating, then they would be vertical.
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Post  microflitedude Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:05 pm

Hmm, I wonder why the other piston fits smooth...

I have plant of LPs and 8-tracks. And players. Smile
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Post  PV Pilot Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:11 pm

microflitedude wrote:Hmm, I wonder why the other piston fits smooth...

I have plant of LPs and 8-tracks. And players. Smile

Not all pistons are created equal,,slight indifferences in each one. As an example,, .0005 to .0007 is a pretty big leap. Again,,as an example.


Really?? very cool on the different music player.
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Post  microflitedude Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:18 pm

PV Pilot wrote:
microflitedude wrote:Hmm, I wonder why the other piston fits smooth...

I have plant of LPs and 8-tracks. And players. Smile

Not all pistons are created equal,,slight indifferences in each one. As an example,, .0005 to .0007 is a pretty big leap. Again,,as an example.


Really?? very cool on the different music player.

Oops, I meant to say "plenty". Very Happy Yeah, My brother owns most of it, but I have a player and a few records/8traks.
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