Very dissapointed in myself!

My #2 is burred also, so I am looking for one too.

What a guy Mark!

PM sent.

cribbs74 wrote:I take pride in the work I do to these engines and I also take my time to do things right. My beautiful little Babe Bee is now a non-runner. Not only did I thoroughly screw up the appearance of the cylinder trying to re-blue it I also managed to turn a burr into the exhaust port. I attempted to remove the burr which I have done before successfully and completely screwed it up even more to the point that my compression is a big fat zero.

So, I have two questions......

How do you guys go about removing burrs?

And lastly does anybody have a spare #2 cylinder they can part with?

I am going to bed frustrated tonight!

sorry to here about the baby bee

To remove burrs in the exhaust ports of cylinders I take a new #11 xacto and use a boom microscope at 20x. I carefully scrape the burr a little at a time. The cylinders are soft and scrape easily. Once I think I have it smoothed out I test fit the cylinder with the piston. If there is any resistance I will then look for the shiny spot on the cylinder. This is the high spot and I will scrape some more and test fit until it the fit is good.

If your wrenches are the early short slot exhaustnport versions I usually toss them aside and use the later longer slot versions. If they are streched I toss them aside also. The Estes era wrenches are 2 thin and bend easy.

Jason

I think I have a #2 for whoever needs one. I'll check.

Jason_WI wrote:To remove burrs in the exhaust ports of cylinders I take a new #11 xacto and use a boom microscope at 20x. I carefully scrape the burr a little at a time. The cylinders are soft and scrape easily. Jason

Same here, with my stereo micorscope dialed to about 30 power. If it a port burr that stands tall on the edge there, just wiggling the burr metal with the tip of the excato causes it to flake off. with just a touch of scraping to get the residual metal line off of there.

If you have wrenched HARD on those ports,,well,,you might be fighting a loosing battle. No matter how much you scrape and try to rough it down you will have a high spot that will kill the cylinder if you try to hone it down.

I have one in a thin walled cylinder. Compression is still good, if I run the engine with the bur, will it destroy it? It is not terribly hard to turn over.

I don't have any estes wrenches, most of mine are the older plated steel ones. I have never caused a burr before yesterday. Most cylinders that have had burrs came to me in that condition. I used a small fine tooth rat tail file on this one and apparently removed too much material. So I guess from now on I will use a razor knife and a magnifying glass. Funny thing is I have used a file before without issue. This burr was on the edge of the exhaust port right next to the transfer port. Maybe since the metal is so thin there I removed too much.

Thankfully Mark is going to help me out. Sorry Mitch! I usually don't ham fist these things.

Rusty, looks like Matt could use your #2

Thanks for the tips gentlemen...........

microflitedude wrote:I have one in a thin walled cylinder. Compression is still good, if I run the engine with the bur, will it destroy it? It is not terribly hard to turn over.

Well, once you scratch a deep line on the piston top to bottom,,toss both pieces. With a ball and socket wrist pin arrangement, it will put a roadmap scratch on the side of the piston. It might run good right at startup when it is somewhat tighter,then it will expand and you'll drop the compression, or try to polish it out and run heavy oil concentrations then and a rich needle.

Agreed, best thing would be to deburr it manually before running it and not use the piston to do that job. Once the cylinder is deburred it should run fine.

This type of damages are easy to avoid, as it is quite easy to just cut flats (with a dremel cutting wheel) at the top of the cylinder for the tool (like on the modern engines).

Another problem is, I can't get the cylinder off. So you can imagine how the bur got there. Even with some pretty good heat it refused to come off.

microflitedude wrote:Another problem is, I can't get the cylinder off. So you can imagine how the bur got there. Even with some pretty good heat it refused to come off.

One trick I have used Matt, is to heat the whole motor up ouchie hot, then blast the cylinder with a cold spray of fluid right around the base of the cylinder. That induced warpage will create lose spots between the threads,,quickly grab your wrench and twist. Gotta move fast and efficient,,, hesitate for a split second just to to make sure the tool is placed properly and then don't loose that tool bite placement.

Sometimes, just heating one side of the motor and cylinder will induce that needed warpage. But dont go for the full turn, just work it back and fourth to loosen.

As suggested so many times before it may require soaking in solvent in addition to mild heat to remomve a stuck cylinder and, if not once, several repeated cycles of the above.

Castor oil residue is most often the culprit and until it loosens it's grip the impatient will damage cylinders if not more. Personally I've never found a cylinder yet that didn't yield to my patient persistence and verbal threats.

its fine Ron don't worry about it.
Someone here will be able to help you with the repair

I have burred two cylinders in the past, one from a Estes Black Widow and the other from an early Babe Bee. I have fixed both by taking a (trashed/worn) piston and placing it into the cylinder, screwing it onto a crankcase and then just slowly turning it over until it gets looser and looser. Once it was quite loose but you could still feel it "hanging up", I just started up an old electric motor with a rubber wheel on it and made it spin the engine over (while oiling the piston and shaft every so often). I looked at the cylinder every so often to notice the shiny dot in the corner of the port going away. After I thought it was even loose enough to start up, I hit it with some #0000 steel wool.

RknRusty wrote:I think I have a #2 for whoever needs one. I'll check.

Is it thin-walled?

The plot thickens!

I heated the cylinder/case, and tried a rubber strap wrench. No luck, so I used a few pieces of rubber around the cylinder, and took it off with channel locks. Put teeth marks on the cylinder anyway. I took it inside, and did not see any burs. I put in a new piston and it was smooth! I examined the old piston under a microscope, and found a deep scratch on the wall. Not sure if it is big enough to cause problems or what?

You in too bigga rush, young man.

Follow SD's suggestions and you could have prevented the damage.

Oh, well..............................................

I guess it depends on where it is on the skirt. If between the crown and the exhaust port then it will make more of a difference then if it was near the bottom.

Admin wrote:I have burred two cylinders in the past, one from a Estes Black Widow and the other from an early Babe Bee. I have fixed both by taking a (trashed/worn) piston and placing it into the cylinder, screwing it onto a crankcase and then just slowly turning it over until it gets looser and looser. Once it was quite loose but you could still feel it "hanging up", I just started up an old electric motor with a rubber wheel on it and made it spin the engine over (while oiling the piston and shaft every so often). I looked at the cylinder every so often to notice the shiny dot in the corner of the port going away. After I thought it was even loose enough to start up, I hit it with some #0000 steel wool.

You don't want to use a piston to do this! Although the burr does "go away" as the piston goes past the spot, the piston is grinding on the cylinder on the opposite wall across of the burr thus wearing that spot down. This will result in case pressure loss and perhaps cylinder compression loss. There could even be more wear on the engine as the piston will no longer go up and down perfectly straight.

I would suggest sitting under a magnified lamp and using an Xacto knife to carefully remove the burr and then finishing it with Grade #0000 Super Fine Steel Wool.

SuperDave wrote:You in too bigga rush, young man.

Follow SD's suggestions and you could have prevented the damage.

Oh, well..............................................

Maybe, the only thing I did not do was work back and forth with the pliers. I guess I did not want them to slip and make it worse.

microflitedude wrote:The plot thickens!

I heated the cylinder/case, and tried a rubber strap wrench. No luck, so I used a few pieces of rubber around the cylinder, and took it off with channel locks. Put teeth marks on the cylinder anyway. I took it inside, and did not see any burs. I put in a new piston and it was smooth! I examined the old piston under a microscope, and found a deep scratch on the wall. Not sure if it is big enough to cause problems or what?

There is your roadmap scratch I posted about.

And working it back and fourth might have been better. it allows those crustys that are jamming it up to powder and fall out or make room for the threads.

PV Pilot wrote:

microflitedude wrote:The plot thickens!

I heated the cylinder/case, and tried a rubber strap wrench. No luck, so I used a few pieces of rubber around the cylinder, and took it off with channel locks. Put teeth marks on the cylinder anyway. I took it inside, and did not see any burs. I put in a new piston and it was smooth! I examined the old piston under a microscope, and found a deep scratch on the wall. Not sure if it is big enough to cause problems or what?

There is your roadmap scratch I posted about.

How did it get there?