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COX Tee Dee 010 backplate gasket - DIY, if needed Cox_ba12




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Post  balogh Mon Aug 19, 2024 4:34 am

Not a big invention, but may help you debug this tiny engine...

COX Tee Dee010 engines genuinely did not use a gasket between the red delrin backplate and the crankcase, thanks to the good quality of backpate mould and the flat crankcase face or flange.

I noted on at least 2 of my old-stock 010-s (black anodized carburetor, gold anodized crankcase, red delrin backplate or tank and carb body, tapered cylinder bore)  however, that no matter how much I tighten the 4 backplate screws, the backplate will leak - typically on the right side of the cranckase- indicated by small air bubbles appearing in the area between the 2 right side backplate mount bolts, when the shaft is slowly hand-cranked Counter Clockwise (like in normal operating conditions) from TDC i.e. creating compression in the crankcase with the piston moving down. I noted that this side of the crankcase face is not flat, the crankcase mounting bolt area is slightly bulged - maybe a certain material extrusion during thread tapping? -, and the backplate will not contact the crankcase face in the full circumference, resulting in leakage.

This sealing problem will  not only impair the fuel suction capability of the tiny engine, but reduce the amount of fresh air-fuel mixture inhaled into the crankcase then shot up into the cylinder, so, it may cost you starting problems on the one hand, and thousands of rpm in engine performance in an unhealthy lean run, on the other.

Not wanting to sand the crankcase face flat, nor having any stock gasket around (never manufactured by COX anytime, anyway), I wound some plumbers' white thin PTFE seal band around the central plug element of the backplate before mounting it back on the engine, then shoved it down to the sealing area to create an artificial PTFE O-ring to sit on the crankcase face, and - low and behold  Smile -  the sealing problem disappeared.

Now, with the glow head removed and the piston hand-cranked CCW from the TDC down, it will slightly spring back when the shaft is released -  release the shaft before the piston crown clears the transfer ports - in an indication of a healthy compression created in the crankcase by the sinking piston.

Those CEF friends running 010-s may check their own backplates for proper sealing, it is worth it.
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Post  rdw777 Mon Aug 19, 2024 5:43 am

That’s a great tip Andras, Especially for preserving anodized finish even on the rear of the crankcase…..The crankcase compression test is good and maybe often overlooked….. One thing I’ve learned from CEF is good sealing is paramount to good running, consistent Cox engines…..  When I got my first .010 I did not know there was not a factory gasket intended for the rear of the crankcase, I just thought it was missing…..So I made a hole punch from sharpened brass tubing for the screws then a paper gasket….Soaked it in WD-40 (I think that may have been a tip from you as well  Thumbs Up)….. Also leveled the back of the crankcase but mine is natural aluminum so not really that noticeable….. Regardless, .010’s can produce amazing power for their size when tuned up well….. Love to hear them run with their crazy high rpm…..
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Post  balogh Mon Aug 19, 2024 5:53 am

Thank you, Robert, some engine testers often called COX engines finicky to start and set their sweet NV spots, but the small jewels they are, the more attention to their seamless assembling is required to achieve the incredible performance they can put out..
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Post  getback Mon Aug 19, 2024 5:58 am

Thanks for the tip easy and works Great ! Very Happy This Site Rocks!
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Post  rdw777 Mon Aug 19, 2024 6:12 am

True Andras, They are reliable performers when all the little mechanical details are observed ….I think even more important for the smaller displacements as the “tuning window” has less room for error….
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Post  roddie Mon Aug 19, 2024 9:48 am

Good stuff Andras. Thumbs Up These sort of tips are things that we should remember when reassembling any model engine.. or if one just doesn't seem to behave as it should.
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Post  balogh Mon Aug 19, 2024 10:16 am

Thanks Eric, Robert and Roddie..
Honestly I am a bit disillusioned to have experienced that imperfection on my favorit toy that was supposed to carry no faults, having been borne in the heydays..
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Post  rdw777 Mon Aug 19, 2024 10:50 am

I get it Andras, But I wouldn’t be too disillusioned on the backplate fit…. Is it possible the fifty year old plastic has changed shape slightly?….. The plastics industry was still relatively young when these engines were born…… I’m amazed it’s held up as well as it has on the engines I have with plastic parts…..Fortunately even if the plastic has changed or not, You’ve come up with an effective repair to close that little gap putting it back to design spec…..
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Post  balogh Mon Aug 19, 2024 11:08 am

Thanks, Robert, no, it is not the plastic but the face of crankcase which is not flat. I laid the edge of a knife over the face and could see light between the 2 mounting bolt positions between the edge and the face.....even though only a fraction of a millimeter in width, enough to allow leakage..but could be doctored with the plumbers PTFE ribbon..
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