Engine choice

I have a extended tank for pee wee,if it will run properly.mabye tee dee .020 spinner and no tail wheel

049kid wrote:I have a extended tank for pee wee,if it will run properly.l

Do you know if that was a "Kavan" (aftermarket) part? I've only seen Kavan kits for the Cox .049 Babe Bee and Black Widow engines.. (IE: 5cc and 8cc integral tanks.. including Golden Bee and Super Bee)

I don't know if Kavan made a tank extension for the Pee Wee, but it would be a worthy upgrade as the run time is rather short on a stock Pee Wee.

Some time back I drilled a hole in a Pee Wee tank so I extended a fuel line from venturi nipple inside the tank to an external larger capacity Perfect tank. This was on my Ace R/C Littlest Stick. However, then one basically "ruins" the stock tank for restoration back to original form.

For someone who has a printing machine, could template and make such parts.

Going back to the Swordsman 18, nice thing about the ply firewall is someone could drill 8 holes, 4 to fit the Pee Wee, 4 to fit the Babe Bee. Then, one could choose one or the other.

About only drawback to Pee Wee power is being slightly reduced over the Babe Bee, one would resort to slightly shorter C/L line lengths, so to have adequate line tension in a light breeze. Otherwise IMO, one would need to fly in only calm weather.

The historic way to extending a PeeWee run was to drill a hole in the side of the tank bell and plumb in an external tank. Joe Klause when he had Kustom Kraftsmanship used to sell PeeWee tanks ready drilled for the purpose. Apparently this worked better than blocking off one of the existing backplate vents and attaching the external tank's fuel line to the other vent.... in any case this approach only worked if you had TWO vent spigots on your backplate.....the later versions of the PeeWee only had one-plus a drilled hole.....though I suppose it would not have taken a lot of work to have drilled and tapped this hole to take a miniature pressure nipple to serve as a fuel inlet....

Someone in the past has apparently done this (drilled holes in the tank bell) to my recently acquired RR-1....so at some stage I will have to rectify this and plug the holes-probably with a custom alloy rivet....a little bit of care with a lathe external threading tool on the outer tank surface followed by a re-anodise, and the repair will be reasonably unobstrusive....though not invisible

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

Well don't make the same mistake I did over 60 years ago. I built the Swordsman and powered it with the Pee Wee but did NOT add the recommended solder ballast wrapped around the crankcase nose as recommended by Carl Goldberg. End result: Tail heavy airplane and an instant loop and crash.

BTW, the cylinder on my Pee Wee got bent when it hit the only bit of pavement in the schoolyard where I was attempting to fly my new plane.

My father brought the cylinder into his workplace and somebody there was able to straighten it at least to the point of the engine would run on its prime. (I figure the needle valve may have been broken off in its seat thereby strangling the engine for fuel.)

And some 60 years later, I was able to straighten a bent Pee Wee cylinder just like some unknown machinist did for me back in 1960!

Jim, Scientific had a spacer block for the Pee Wee, which extended it out another 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch forward, so it could match up with the propeller line of the cowling. It would also move the weight of the engine forward. If I were scratch building a Swordsman for a Pee Wee, I'd probably lengthen the nose of it so the engine could bring it into balance, also select lighter wood for the tail surfaces and thin out the fuselage a touch toward the tail, which would make the tail lighter for balancing. (One could also cut the fuselage wing slot so the wing was moved backward a little to make balance.)

But as kids, we weren't quite as privvy on this. But, I even later on made the mistake of not ensuring my Q-Tee was better balanced with a lighter Norvel .061 Big Mig, had an awefully squirrely flight. It is always better to have a plane nose heavy than tail heavy, because it is still controllable.

On my Minnie Mambo, because the Ace R/C single channel pulse battery pack was half the weight of a standard digital servo battery pack, I added a Harry Higley Heavy Hub as the prop nut on my .049 R/C Bee, to balance the plane out. That extra half ounce of weight did the trick.

706jim wrote:And some 60 years later, I was able to straighten a bent Pee Wee cylinder just like some unknown machinist did for me back in 1960!

Still running strong a couple of years later …. Runs out its full tank just fine

I'm so pleased to hear that. Your Stuntman kit is still waiting to be built but hopefully will be completed this winter.

Engine choice .I might extend fire wall if needed.extented tank pee wee needs further investigation.

Engine choice, sorry guys, trying to figure out how to send pic of engine

Good photo, glad to see that someone (Kavan?) made a custom tank extension. The small tank only ever gave me about 1.5 minutes on a Cox 4x2 prop, about a minute more on a Top Flite white nylon 5.25x3 prop. Getting 4 or more minutes would be the cat's meow.

Would be interesting if someone could "print" a tank extension matched with the right length and type ANSI 2-56 tank screws and printed venturi extension. It wouldn't be a high volume item as demand is not there, but might be a few here who would opt for it.

Also a good start on the Swordsman kit, I enjoyed making one for my son. From 5 years ago:

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12473-testors-8000#159939

I have an old Swordsman 18 profile plane that I m in process of restoring/repair and attaching .049 Baby Bee to.

Does anybody have any data on where the CG is supposed to be so I can get my optimal thrust angle?

With a .049 Bay Bee what would be a good line length for a 5-6 second rotation?

5-6 seconds laps are gonna be tuff...

I'd start with 30' (8-10# Spyder) and pretty good engine offset, at least a couple washers, if tension is good maybe 32-33' lines.

CG as long as its not tail heavy is not critical, 20-25% back of leading edge.

Thanks Mark.

I have it set up with two washers deep top and bottom side thrust outward and my CG is just about where you said it should be.

Probably will go with the Spyder wire fishing line or old school high visible Dacron 10 lb test.

With a Thimble Drome 6D 3P prop it should work.

Hey guys,don't think my message got sent.on my original plans it shows cg 1 1/8" back from firewall.pee wee 25' lines,babe bee 35' lines

Great info.

I was able to see a YouTube showing a Swordsman 18 with a .020 PeeWee on what looked like about 28 foot lines and it was about a 5.5 rotation. I think I am in the zone on this.