5-40 1 inch torx allen head phillips

andrew wrote:I use McMaster-Carr for lots of different things, screws, taps, dies, bits. You name it and they usually have it. Good pricing and reasonable shipping.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=glf426

That's a good link thanks. Anybody know what's the longest that will fit through the spinner and prop without bottoming out in the crank?

RknRusty wrote:
Anybody know what's the longest that will fit through the spinner and prop without bottoming out in the crank?

Rusty --

I've got a metal backplate BW with OEM red spinner --- the prop screw is 1". With a prop in place, it will tighten down w/o bottoming out, but does screw almost all the way in.

For several years, I've been replacing the OEM prop screws on both my COX and NORVEL engines with socket head bolts and I cut them to length so that they nearly bottom out when the prop is tight. I bulk buy one longer length and resize as needed. My reasoning was that it reduced the tension stress on the end of the crank and also helped fill the void from the screw hole in the crank. After reading that Paul G. used a stud that bottomed out, I felt vindicated from being a little weird about it.

I also like partially threaded bolts (where the shank near the head is not threaded) because the spinner (COX and NORVEL) fits a little more tightly and the prop is also snug.

andrew wrote:

RknRusty wrote:
Anybody know what's the longest that will fit through the spinner and prop without bottoming out in the crank?

Rusty --

I've got a metal backplate BW with OEM red spinner --- the prop screw is 1". With a prop in place, it will tighten down w/o bottoming out, but does screw almost all the way in.

For several years, I've been replacing the OEM prop screws on both my COX and NORVEL engines with socket head bolts and I cut them to length so that they nearly bottom out when the prop is tight. I bulk buy one longer length and resize as needed. My reasoning was that it reduced the tension stress on the end of the crank and also helped fill the void from the screw hole in the crank. After reading that Paul G. used a stud that bottomed out, I felt vindicated from being a little weird about it.

I also like partially threaded bolts (where the shank near the head is not threaded) because the spinner (COX and NORVEL) fits a little more tightly and the prop is also snug.

I agree, that's why I asked about it. I think I'll get some 1.25" hex bolts. I would rather have hex button heads, but the heads would be too wide, and I don't want to mess with prop screw heads on my clumsy bench grinder.

Tonys screws buys in bulk from Mcmaster-carr. He can get the shouldered screws as well.

Fwiw