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Cox Engine of The Month
BOT's Power Pod
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BOT's Power Pod
Here's the Power Pod Design from Sig that I use on both my 2 and 3 meter B.O.T.'s. As is, it's designed for 1/2A.
For my Medallion .15, I enlarged it enough to give good prop clearance, doubled the balsa core thickness, and notched the core as needed to receive two hardwood engine bearers. (Cabinet Shops usually have a bunch of free scraps that are perfect for the bearers)
I also used two pieces of ply for the base, so that it could match the wing-root's dihedral break at the center. Before adding the pylon and using 30 minute epoxy, I covered the center section with wax paper, butted the two halves together and with epoxy on their edges, and let the epoxy cure.
Once it was solid, I smoothed any bumps at the seam, troweled on a thin layer of epoxy, followed by a strip of fiberglass cloth (leave enough at to loop around the bottom later), and added the pylon with it's triangle stock. Once this cured up, I removed the mount from the wing, troweled on some more epoxy on the seam's underside, wrapped the fiberglass tape under it, then replaced it on the wing's wax paper to let it cure again.
I finished the pod with a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy, troweled on with a piece of balsa sheet. 1/16th works well, and you can cut it with scissors to give a straight edge.
For my Medallion .15, I enlarged it enough to give good prop clearance, doubled the balsa core thickness, and notched the core as needed to receive two hardwood engine bearers. (Cabinet Shops usually have a bunch of free scraps that are perfect for the bearers)
I also used two pieces of ply for the base, so that it could match the wing-root's dihedral break at the center. Before adding the pylon and using 30 minute epoxy, I covered the center section with wax paper, butted the two halves together and with epoxy on their edges, and let the epoxy cure.
Once it was solid, I smoothed any bumps at the seam, troweled on a thin layer of epoxy, followed by a strip of fiberglass cloth (leave enough at to loop around the bottom later), and added the pylon with it's triangle stock. Once this cured up, I removed the mount from the wing, troweled on some more epoxy on the seam's underside, wrapped the fiberglass tape under it, then replaced it on the wing's wax paper to let it cure again.
I finished the pod with a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy, troweled on with a piece of balsa sheet. 1/16th works well, and you can cut it with scissors to give a straight edge.
Kim- Top Poster
-
Posts : 8625
Join date : 2011-09-06
Location : South East Missouri
BOT'S Power Pod
Loved the little construction thread. Wish we had more of them.
I think I would have some kind of register on the wing to stop the
pod moving in fore and aft direction, thus altering thrust angle.
What is a B.O.T anyway, some kind of powered glider I assume?
John
Silly me Bird Of Time of course
I think I would have some kind of register on the wing to stop the
pod moving in fore and aft direction, thus altering thrust angle.
What is a B.O.T anyway, some kind of powered glider I assume?
John
Silly me Bird Of Time of course
proctor- Gold Member
- Posts : 199
Join date : 2012-01-31
Location : Scottish Highlands
Re: BOT's Power Pod
Yeah John,
Sorry, I've had the thing since 1999, and it's acronym has become it's name.
I made several mistakes (and omissions), which I will correct later today. The pod can be stabilized front-to-back by looping a rubber band around it from each direction. This will keep it from sliding forward.
I also forgot to mention that a couple of mine (I've made several) have the pylon mounted further back on the base to allow some elbow room (and C.G. control) for the inevitable cameras I tend to put on these planes.
I'll correct this later,,,woke up REALLY early and tried to write...never a good idea! Finally got the photos loaded later in the morning.
Later! Sleepy Kim
Sorry, I've had the thing since 1999, and it's acronym has become it's name.
I made several mistakes (and omissions), which I will correct later today. The pod can be stabilized front-to-back by looping a rubber band around it from each direction. This will keep it from sliding forward.
I also forgot to mention that a couple of mine (I've made several) have the pylon mounted further back on the base to allow some elbow room (and C.G. control) for the inevitable cameras I tend to put on these planes.
I'll correct this later,,,woke up REALLY early and tried to write...never a good idea! Finally got the photos loaded later in the morning.
Later! Sleepy Kim
Kim- Top Poster
-
Posts : 8625
Join date : 2011-09-06
Location : South East Missouri
Re: BOT's Power Pod
I got one sealed in box! The box is really small and now I finally understand how Sig managed to squize in a entire pod!
pod
I made one of these and nice unit. Dan
dankar04- Platinum Member
- Posts : 716
Join date : 2011-08-13
Age : 78
Location : Tucson,Az.
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