Please tell me the Fox .35 needle looks like this

Thank you for that info I appreciate it.  Let me see if I got this correct the engines from the 40th year and up will have all straight needle values ? And the engine I posted was made before the 40th but someone got a replacement needle value and stuck it in   ?
What do you mean that it will barely be seated when in proper position?


Sorry one more thing I read to put on a piece of fuel line tubing on threads. Where and why?

The needle valve you have is the newer replacement, it has a slight taper. The older needle valves had one side ground flat. The 40th anniversary engines were the last engines in the Fox .35 series to have the flats ground onto the needle. It is imperative to cut a piece of tubing to the proper length and install it on a Fox needle valve.

What is the tubing for ? Where do you put it exactly is it there so the needle valve stays put?
Which needle values and spray bars are the better the 1 hole spray bar or the 2 hole spray bar and what needle value goes with each the one that’s ground flat or the round tapered one ?

As you can see, the needle has two knurled knobs. One is for the ratchet clip and the other so that you can turn it. You need to get the engine running in it's approximate happy spot and measure the distance between the spraybar and the first knob. Cut the tubing and slide it onto the needle valve and screw it in to seal against air leaks. Fox needle valves are real crap. They break just looking at them. I cut the knob off that you adjust with and bend the remainder into a L. In the event you come in inverted it usually breaks the needle. This can even happen if the model flips over. The needle snaps off inside the spraybar requiring a little surgery to remove it.

Which style needle value is your personal favorite or the one that’s the best in your opinion?
And what do you think of these replacements I will attempt to send pictures lol. And do you recommend the tubing for bot needle values This is confusing sorry. Thanks for your help.

The needle valve you show first is a Supertiger clone. I'm not a huge fan of Tiger needles because the collet always comes loose, when you tighten it down, the needle is too hard to turn. If you slip trying to turn it, fingers are going into the back of the prop.
I also don't like that the assembly is .156" in diameter which is about .020" larger than the Fox which will rob power due to choking down the venturi.

The Enya needle valve is superior to most manufacturers. I myself have a personal favorite no longer available which is the Randy Smith PA needle valve assemblies. The PA needle assemblies are the best of the best. My second choice would be the Enya you show from Shtterman.


Also not available is the Brodak .40 needle which I turned down to the same diameter as the Fox. If you turn down a Supertiger assembly, it makes it too thin and it breaks when you tighten into the engine.

Ok thank you for the info. So I guess the one hole spray bar is the way to go. Do I have to put the tubing on any of the ones above?

One hole or two hole, it makes no difference with a Fox. Anytime you can place tubing on the assembly your better off. The Enya needle valve, OS needle valves are female assemblies which you can't easily place tubing on it like the Fox. It can be done, but it's a bit difficult. So, don't run your needle valves in and out, this can wear them out. Needle valves vibrate and can wear out rather quickly just from vibrations. I've had this happen with newer OS assemblies, they're crap, the threads are crude, the plating is poor and combined with vibrations, they wear out. No worries because they're discontinued nowadays like everything else we need. My advice would be to purchase the Enya needle valve and as many needles as you can afford. These are not going to be around for long and they're certainly not going to get cheaper.