My Tee Dee 051 Carb Body (red) Is Cracked!!

I've been running this one for several years with no problems.  Got the engine a long time ago, and it had NOT had a good life, but still ran good.  While on my 2M B.O.T. with it's original plastic body, it started acting up, going lean, then back, to sometimes croaking in flight, and I'm a little embarrassed now that it took me so long to notice the crack that had opened toward the cylinder.

Can't remember who I got it from, but installed it, and have been burning nitro ever since.

I'd highly recommend it, and as Ron said, replacing it is no problem.

Good Luck !!!

Ditto that, me too. I've used both. My aluminum one came with a Teflon ring seal for the rear end which I don't even recall if I needed. The plastic one is shaped so that it's keyed in place and cannot rotate off the center of the port. My metal one is not, but that isn't a problem, as it's never slipped and moved.
Rusty

Cribbs74 wrote:Jim,

It’s not hard at all, most of us have done it and can step you through it pretty easily. As with all things there is more than one way to skin a cat.

You can order plastic or aluminum through exmodelengines.com or Cox International.

Either style will work, the aluminum will last indefinitely. Go ahead and place the order, when it arrives let us know and we can get started.

Ron

Okayyyyyyyy!! I placed the order and I'm placing my hope and trust in you in that you will share your knowledge on how to guide me through the replacement/repair of my parts Thanks in advance!!

Jim

modelbuilder49 wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:Jim,

It’s not hard at all, most of us have done it and can step you through it pretty easily. As with all things there is more than one way to skin a cat.

You can order plastic or aluminum through exmodelengines.com or Cox International.

Either style will work, the aluminum will last indefinitely. Go ahead and place the order, when it arrives let us know and we can get started.

Ron

Okayyyyyyyy!!  I placed the order and I'm placing my hope and trust in you in that you will share your knowledge on how to guide me through the replacement/repair of my parts   Thanks in advance!!

Jim

Jim, I guarantee we can get you through this. Have you removed the cylinder and piston assembly before? Trying to get an idea of how much help you need. We could probably break the engine down while you wait for the new part. After that it’s just a matter of putting it back together in reverse order.

Ron

I know y'all hate this... But I just remove the prop and use the Tee Dee wrench to unscrew the locking collet and it presses the drive plate off. Then the carb body is free and might even fall off. Then I put the new carb body on, screw the locking collet back on and use a screw and washers or something to press the drive plate back on. Cox actually endorsed this method back in the day   ... I think. I have never hurt, nor seen how it can hurt anything.
Brute Force Rusty

pot stirrer.

Yes, I am not fond of that method, it does work I suppose. If the stock Cox wrench had a better cutout that actually fit properly I would be more eager to adopt that method.

I have used the method Rusty described on several engines. Only once was I not careful enough and let the wrench slip It caused slight cosmetic damage to the collet. But it was sort of beat-up already anyway. I am not blaming the wrench, it was my own fault. And it did buff out

Another way would be to remove the cylinder, backplate and piston, then screw in an old prop screw and tap it with a hammer to get the crankshaft loose, like you would do with reedies.

Both methods have their benefits. The first method is good if you don't plan to take the engine completely apart but are just replacing the carb body. Using the other you reduce the risk of damaging the collet and threads.

For replacing the drive plate I use a prop screw, a washer or two and an old propeller (missing a blade but one blade is enough for this purpose ). The propeller is a good "handle" since usually your hands are a bit oily at this point and also you need a way to keep the crankshaft from rotating as you tighten the screw.

I only just recently purchased the "proper" tools from Cox Int for this, have yet to test them.

If the engine is otherwise OK, I'd use Rusty's method and leave the cylinder/piston/backplate alone. As always, a little heat applied to the area is a helper in getting things to cooperate.

If it ran good before as Jim said i would just replace the Body at this point , But with it off you can look and see if you have old castor build up on some of the crank.. Ron is running this round up so i will set back and watch ..

Jim, I guarantee we can get you through this. Have you removed the cylinder and piston assembly before? Trying to get an idea of how much help you need. We could probably break the engine down while you wait for the new part. After that it’s just a matter of putting it back together in reverse order.

Ron

Hey y'all, Lord knows, I appreciate the advice and suggestions, I really do.  But to answer Ron, I must say, no sir, I have never attempted do disassemble this or any of my Tee Dee engine.  I have never had to as they have been that reliable.  When the parts arrive I'll reach out again, if that's okay!

Jim

Jim,

We can do this a couple ways, my school of thought would be to break it down completely so you can see how it all works together. That way you are better served if the need arises to get into the engine again. The whole TD engine has 15 parts. It’s very simple. It’s really up to you, just know if you botch it up we(I)can get you the parts to fix it.

When you get a chance please post a picture of the engine in question.

Ron

Well guys! I did it! I think I successfully removed and replaced the front housings on both of my Tee Dee 051's. Boy, was I a bit worried trying to remove that pressed on drive plate but doing it the way Rusty said, it came off pretty easily. After cleaning everything up as then putting it all back together, I was feeling pretty good. Now to put'em to the test and fire'em up ! Thanks guys !!

Jim

Good work, Jim. I sure am glad the "Rusty said" method didn't totally botch it up, Lol. They usually aren't all that tight. Pulling the drive plate back onto the splines is the most critical part of the operation.
Now you're a certified 1/2-A&P mechanic.

I wanted him to break it down Rusty...

No worries, he is back in action, after all that’s what really matters