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Cox Engine of The Month
Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Page 1 of 1
Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
I`m almost finished with my Midwest Mini Warbird P-40 clone. I couldn`t get a kit but was able to find a photo of all the parts which I enlarged to make the parts as close as I could. It took me a month because I`m a slow builder and like to let the paint gas off to avoid problems and also because I made some of the parts needed like the bellcrank,elevator horn,landing gear wire and the gas tank. It weights 6.8 oz. It could have been a little lighter but I only had clear dope which I used to fuel proof the the plane with a few coats. To seal the wood I used epoxy and using playing cards as a squeege removed as much as I could. I used transtar 4633 white primer because is easy to sand dry. To hold weigh it down I sanded the primer to the point I could start to see the wood. I painted the little plane with duplicolor radiant silver and Taffeta White. The decals used are from the e flite UMX P-51 BL that I bought on ebay. The sharkmouth I painted with a brush. Engine is a surestart with a diesel crank, TD hi comp head and spring starter. Wheels are Perfect 1 1/8. The prop is a cox 5 x 3 three blade I had with a spinner I painted white to match the plane. Here are a few pics.
Juan
Juan
F4D Phantom II- Gold Member
- Posts : 245
Join date : 2019-04-08
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Thank you Juan!
Those teenie-weenie pictures on SH just didn't do this build justice. I love the detail work. I also noticed you completed the back part of the cockpit/canopy frame.
Can you give us any details.on how you built the tank? Did you use a wood form and roll the tin around it? Did you start with a cardboard version to work out the angles/measurements along the fuselage?
Any details.may help the beginner tank builder (me).
Gracias, mi amigo!
Those teenie-weenie pictures on SH just didn't do this build justice. I love the detail work. I also noticed you completed the back part of the cockpit/canopy frame.
Can you give us any details.on how you built the tank? Did you use a wood form and roll the tin around it? Did you start with a cardboard version to work out the angles/measurements along the fuselage?
Any details.may help the beginner tank builder (me).
Gracias, mi amigo!
944_Jim- Diamond Member
-
Posts : 2022
Join date : 2017-02-08
Age : 59
Location : NE MS
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Very nice!!
TLAnderson- Gold Member
- Posts : 243
Join date : 2016-07-21
Location : Northern Wisconsin
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Juan is quite a skilled modeller at tank building. Over the years he's compiled some very good information. Glad he's made it over here. Ken
Ken Cook- Top Poster
- Posts : 5637
Join date : 2012-03-27
Location : pennsylvania
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
That's the nicest finished profile plane that I have seen. Well done Juan.
You hand painted that sharks head..........fantastic.
Bob
You hand painted that sharks head..........fantastic.
Bob
rsv1cox- Top Poster
-
Posts : 11248
Join date : 2014-08-18
Location : West Virginia
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Hello Bob
I thank you for your kind words, It had been a while since I built a 1/2a control line model. I had seen the plans on an AMA Plan Book published in or about early 70`s. It has a membership application for 1974 in the back page. I had not seen a kit or built plane in the internet. The plans in the book only show a side view. I found more information in a book by Dick Sarpolus called building and Flying control line model Aircraft. There was a photo of the kit parts showing the outlines of the fuse,wing and tail, I took it to a copy shop and enlarged it to use making a clone. I enlarged the side view using the wheel size as a guide and I built the plane. I haven`t flown it yet. I will be using steel wire .008 from Brodak ,got the wire but need to make the lines to 35 Ft. lenght. I also want to fly from a smooth surface but haven`t had the chance to out searching for a parking lot. I thought about removing the wheels and flying on grass but I`m afraid it would shift the center of gravity back making for a very exciting first flight. Thanks again.
Juan
I thank you for your kind words, It had been a while since I built a 1/2a control line model. I had seen the plans on an AMA Plan Book published in or about early 70`s. It has a membership application for 1974 in the back page. I had not seen a kit or built plane in the internet. The plans in the book only show a side view. I found more information in a book by Dick Sarpolus called building and Flying control line model Aircraft. There was a photo of the kit parts showing the outlines of the fuse,wing and tail, I took it to a copy shop and enlarged it to use making a clone. I enlarged the side view using the wheel size as a guide and I built the plane. I haven`t flown it yet. I will be using steel wire .008 from Brodak ,got the wire but need to make the lines to 35 Ft. lenght. I also want to fly from a smooth surface but haven`t had the chance to out searching for a parking lot. I thought about removing the wheels and flying on grass but I`m afraid it would shift the center of gravity back making for a very exciting first flight. Thanks again.
Juan
F4D Phantom II- Gold Member
- Posts : 245
Join date : 2019-04-08
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
What did you do to back end of engine? NV looks like a Super Tigre and it looks like you modified air intake/choke tube from a sure start. I'm interested in engine performance with those modifications. I concur with all other comments about your modeling skills.
ticomareado- Account Under Review
- Posts : 1089
Join date : 2013-10-03
Location : NC
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Hello Tico
The idea to cut the intake tube at a 45 degrees is to help with air intake to the engine. The intake is at a 90 degree angle to the airflow as it hits the inlet tube some air spills out but portion of the airflow goes into the tube providing a little supercharging. It might be minimal but like I used to say when I was drag racing I will work on every area even if I only get a little bit of improvement because a little bit here and a little there might be the difference at the track. You can see what I`m talking about using a straw, cut one end at 45 degrees place it under a water faucet at 90 degrees to the water flow and you can see how the water flows out of the other side.The needle valve is a Cox surestart item that I turned down on the lathe and then I bent the tip. All cox engines are a lot of fun. Treat them with care and you can get the best out of them. thanks for your kind words.
Juan
The idea to cut the intake tube at a 45 degrees is to help with air intake to the engine. The intake is at a 90 degree angle to the airflow as it hits the inlet tube some air spills out but portion of the airflow goes into the tube providing a little supercharging. It might be minimal but like I used to say when I was drag racing I will work on every area even if I only get a little bit of improvement because a little bit here and a little there might be the difference at the track. You can see what I`m talking about using a straw, cut one end at 45 degrees place it under a water faucet at 90 degrees to the water flow and you can see how the water flows out of the other side.The needle valve is a Cox surestart item that I turned down on the lathe and then I bent the tip. All cox engines are a lot of fun. Treat them with care and you can get the best out of them. thanks for your kind words.
Juan
F4D Phantom II- Gold Member
- Posts : 245
Join date : 2019-04-08
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
The plane looks amazing Juan , Good detail on the build and products used !
getback- Top Poster
-
Posts : 10441
Join date : 2013-01-18
Age : 67
Location : julian , NC
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Two thumbs up Juan !! A very neat and well thought out build . I just love seeing these Cox builds , brings back good memories of the good old days .
Mike1484
Mike1484
Mike1484- Gold Member
- Posts : 303
Join date : 2011-10-28
Age : 76
Location : Northern Ohio
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
One itsy bitsy aesthetic refinement suggestion: Find a way to protect upper tank vent from flip overs, put an exhaust heat shield on back plate and lay cylinder flat to outboard.
ticomareado- Account Under Review
- Posts : 1089
Join date : 2013-10-03
Location : NC
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Hello Tico
I placed the engine upright because I wanted the plane to look like in the drawing. I have done models with the engine sideways to place more weight on the outboard side. I had been looking at this model for quite a few years until I just had to do it. I think I will be doing a bigger profile with a TD.049 and built up wings but not for a while. Congratulations on your engine of the month win. That is a nice model airplane attached to it.
Juan
I placed the engine upright because I wanted the plane to look like in the drawing. I have done models with the engine sideways to place more weight on the outboard side. I had been looking at this model for quite a few years until I just had to do it. I think I will be doing a bigger profile with a TD.049 and built up wings but not for a while. Congratulations on your engine of the month win. That is a nice model airplane attached to it.
Juan
F4D Phantom II- Gold Member
- Posts : 245
Join date : 2019-04-08
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Juan, have you ever mounted cylinders inboard? I have a few done in this fashion and have discovered positive results in doing so. I find the engine doesn't load as bad in the outside maneuvers. The Hyper Viper used this configuration as well.
Ken Cook- Top Poster
- Posts : 5637
Join date : 2012-03-27
Location : pennsylvania
Re: Midwest Mini Warbird P-40
Hello Ken
I have never tried to mount engines to the inside of the circle. I might have seen one or two planes built that way but they were old models. I have not built many 1/2a airplanes , mostly profiles with sheet wings with the exception of a little Satan and the Veco Tomahawk. I have been thinking about making a bigger built up wing profile with flaps but not for now. I`m working on the Queen Bee .074 and a .049 reedy engines. I`m waiting on a reamer to try bushing a new black crankcase which has the hole .001 oversize. The diesel crankshaft wiggles to much and I`m going to try to cure that. I looked at my stash of .049 and found some crankcases that might work too. I was looking for information on engines and I think I read that you recommended replacing the 3 screws that hold the cilinder on a Stels .049 combat engine. I have one NIB in my collection of engines. Is a cool looking engine with that big bathtub intake.
Juan
I have never tried to mount engines to the inside of the circle. I might have seen one or two planes built that way but they were old models. I have not built many 1/2a airplanes , mostly profiles with sheet wings with the exception of a little Satan and the Veco Tomahawk. I have been thinking about making a bigger built up wing profile with flaps but not for now. I`m working on the Queen Bee .074 and a .049 reedy engines. I`m waiting on a reamer to try bushing a new black crankcase which has the hole .001 oversize. The diesel crankshaft wiggles to much and I`m going to try to cure that. I looked at my stash of .049 and found some crankcases that might work too. I was looking for information on engines and I think I read that you recommended replacing the 3 screws that hold the cilinder on a Stels .049 combat engine. I have one NIB in my collection of engines. Is a cool looking engine with that big bathtub intake.
Juan
F4D Phantom II- Gold Member
- Posts : 245
Join date : 2019-04-08
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