Out of ideas - Help :(

Have you tried hot glue? Not sure how well it will stick on the plastic in question, but it fills gaps really well and after cooling it is somewhat workable. You can also "build up" structures with it, just apply some, let it cool, apply some more, let cool and so on.

Snow !? already ... anyway what a mess it is , this is some interesting looking stuff https://www.jbweld.com/products/plastic-bonder-syringe If it were me i would get it back as good as possible and run the crap out of it till your or its tired !! Did u get the trans-axle repaired ?

I have had good luck with the Loctite plastic binding epoxy. It does chemically fuse to the plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastic-0-85-Fluid-Syringe-1363118/dp/B0044FBB8C

What about using a brass insert nut? They are knurled on the outside and are meant to be either molded into plastic or using a soldering iron to melt down into a plastic boss. This is what I used in the knobs for the reproduction Cox battery boxes.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IZ1RN0A?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Or a shorter version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IYWTCWW?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I have both sizes so if you need a few of each let me know.

WOW 7" To early for that here , been cold and wet!!! 53f today 58f sat and sun.

Do you know the height and diameter of the boss? I could 3D print one out of red ABS and it could be fitted then glued in. Would look better than wood.

1/4” diameter x 5/8” tall with a .068” hole in the center to a depth of 1/2”.

Ok I added one with a .090" clearance hole for #2 all the way through. No need to drill and keep center when its only a few mouse clicks to make a new part.

Hey Robert! Congrats. on the new W-196. I didn't read all the comments.. but your need for plastic screw-bosses.. and the correlation with the round-stock/plastic clothes-hangers for a possible fix, piqued my interest.

I'm almost certain that you or Mark have a machinist's drill-index containing fractional/letter/number drill-bits. If so; you should be able to make stand-offs from the clothes-hanger stock.

Using a vernier/caliper; take some random-measurements of the diameters of a few of the different round-stock/plastic clothes-hangers. If the stock is of consistent-diameter, you can then cut pieces to the required length.

Using your drill-press; clamp a wood-block for drilling a "pilot-hole" of the stock's diameter.. deep enough to support it for center-drilling a hole to accept your fastener. Put the cut-off piece into this bore.. and check for tightness. If loose; wrap tape around the O.D. and re-insert until snug/tight. You don't want the plastic-piece to "spin".. when drilling-out the center. Once you achieve this fit; you can then accurately center-drill holes with the correct drill-diameter for tapping the screw-threads.

Some thread-sizes to consider are; 4-40/5-40/6-32 machine-screw threads. 4-40 and 6-32 are common.. and readily available at most well-stocked hardware stores.

Since it appears you are having posts reproduced, I suggest.they be made with a boss that slips into the holes in the body. Make the shoulder back far enough to allow the new post to bottom out plus a bit. You can fine tune the male end to have the shoulder make good contact with the remained in the body.
Just a suggestion...hopefully not too late.

rsv1cox wrote:

And roddie, it's Jason to the rescue with his 3D posts.  If I'm careful with the vertical alignment it should work.  

That seems like your best option Robert. Kudos to Jason for stepping-up. I marvel at the capability of those 3D printers.. and the people who have and use them.

I liked 944jim's comments on getting a snug fit on the posts too! Good stuff! Best of luck with the surgery on the model.

Jason,
What are you modelling in?

TIA!

www.tinkercad.com

It’s free and online based so nothing to download or install.

Ok so I added an 1/8” x 1/8” step on two of them. One with the hole all the way through and one solid. These are printed out of PETG which is similar to water bottle plastic.

The reason for so many is cooling between layers. If I just printed 4 they would be a molten blob.

I will print a set out of red PLA which is harder than PETG. I don’t have red ABS. I have black and white I can print out of.

That is so cool , Jason to the rescue !! That will make it much easier and look good to .

Wow. That's some serious purty restoration work. Have you ever thought about working in the Smithsonian?

Or the Federal Prison Bureau? I have a neighbor friend whose son is a warden in a Texas unit.