2-56X3/4 - a good buy?

Hi Bob, There's a "Fastenal" outlet in Winchester, VA. I believe that it's the nearest to you. (approx. 28 mi./40 min.) I'd give them a call. I recently did some business with my local outlet in Woonsocket, RI.

https://www.fastenal.com/locations

A quick search for 2-56 fillister-head yielded a max. length of .750" (3/4"). Round-head is available up to 1.0" length if you can live with that.

I've never seen crimping-pliers with smaller than 4-40 thread-cutting ability. I wouldn't use that method anyway. A Dremel/rotary-tool with a cutting-wheel/mandrel is better assurance that the threads won't get damaged. Using "two" hex-nuts spread apart to gage the desired screw-length works great for holding in the jaws of a vise for cutting a long screw "shorter".. using a rotary-tool.

Thanks roddie, I will look them up.  Fillister head is the key, necessary to fit the Cox back plates.  I usually buy from Brownell's @ like $5.95 for 12 or from Bernie.  Just got in some from Cox Int. to fit the 5 oz tank, when I really needed for the 8 oz. hence the 100 count buy for the 7/8".  I spread the wealth between EX, MECOA, and Cox Int.  It's costing me to make complete my Cox parts engines, but so what, I enjoy it.  

Got in an ebay buy yesterday along with Bernie's stuff.  $10 for what you see.  I won't need hardware for quite awhile. Oh, yes, got my "free" exacto knife too.



I going to join the fun here and make up some color engines.  

Woonsocket, Tiverton, Newport, Providence.  Lord, I miss NE and RI.  In WV we have Romney, and Capon Bridge.  Who would name a bridge after a chicken...............

Bob

rsv1cox wrote: Fillister head is the key, necessary to fit the Cox back plates.  I usually buy from Brownell's @ like $5.95 for 12 or from Bernie.  
Bob

I was in a similar dilema. I needed screws for my engine quickly, and did not have the filister head screws at my disposal. So, due to my frugalness, I quickly chucked up my rotary tool with a stone and held that with one hand while rolling a round head screw with the other hand, sort of making my own 'filister type' screw. Took only a couple minutes and worked great for me. Just another option.

Get the 1" and cut them down , thats the Only way i have found , last time i used the dremel tool with sir cut off wheel (for metal) they started coming apart WTF i was running the tool too slow when cutting use it at around 25K // mine goes to 30k but the faster the better Quick cut and done with little clean up to fit . Here , there good to 35K https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/409-15-16-cutting-wheels-36-pack

Just for those who may not have done this, or may have forgotten, it is a good idea to thread a nut on the bolt/screw first so you can make sure the threads are good at the end after cutting.

NEW222 wrote:Just for those who may not have done this, or may have forgotten, it is a good idea to thread a nut on the bolt/screw first so you can make sure the threads are good at the end after cutting.

Yes, my SOP.

I have used Dremel cut-off's with varying success, many just disintegrate. My most effective way is to thread on a nut and insert the screw into the 4/40 slot of the VACO crimping tool, position the nut down contacting the tools surface at the point where I want to make the cut. Backing off the nut dresses the threads.

The 8cc machine screws measure 15/16". I'm hoping that the 3/4" screws that I ordered will work. I know that in the past I had to cut back the 1" 2-56 screws to fit or they bottomed out.

Bob

rsv1cox wrote:Thanks roddie, I will look them up.  Fillister head is the key, necessary to fit the Cox back plates.  

Got in an ebay buy yesterday along with Bernie's stuff.  $10 for what you see.  I won't need hardware for quite awhile. Oh, yes, got my "free" exacto knife too.



I going to join the fun here and make up some color engines.  

Woonsocket, Tiverton, Newport, Providence.  Lord, I miss NE and RI.  In WV we have Romney, and Capon Bridge.  Who would name a bridge after a chicken...............

Bob

:lol!:Maybe it was about "playing chicken" when drag-racing to cross the bridge first?.....

Chancey's (New222) mention of side-grinding a "round-head" screw, to make a "sort-of" fillister-head... has merit.

The thin 3/4" diameter non-reinforced cut-off wheels designed for the Dremel/rotary-tools, can benefit from the application of "thin" CA glue to both-sides. This helps to extend the life of these "brittle" cutting-wheels from shattering.



I do this on wax-paper.. and use a toothpick to flip the cutting-wheel over to distribute the glue to the opposite side..



then.. I treat both sides with "baking-soda".. It's a curing-accelerator for super-glue. I keep a box on my bench.. and usually apply it by a "pinch" between the thumb and index-finger. A small brush can help to spread it to where it needs to go.




If you're like "me"........ you have a dedicated set-up "ready to go"... for when you need a cut-off wheel. This requires a "station' for the tool.. because of its fragile nature. A simple solution is a short piece of foam pipe-insulation, to use as a "cradle". Whether you have a flex-shaft.. or not.. the foam-cradle will help to protect the fragile cut-off wheel, while on your bench.

Love this forum!

I would have never thought to CA those fragile cut off discs...great tip... already do the foam cradle thing for the one Dremel dedicated for cutting things....grin

fredvon4 wrote:Love this forum!

I would have never thought to CA those fragile cut off discs...great tip... already do the foam cradle thing for the one Dremel dedicated for cutting things....grin

Roddie!  We’re gonna have to ask Jacob to make a new file under “instructions “ call it Roddies Hobby Hints and Tips, to compile all the wonderful thinks you thing up. I know I’ll never find it again looking for Dremel tips, when it’s in a thread on 2-56 x3/4 thread screws!  Putting CA on the grinding wheel certainly would have won the “tip of the Month” in one of the Modler Magazines I used to subscribe to!  The foam cradle is a (slaps forehead) why didn’t I think of that? Super Idea. Thanks ever so much for shareing

Yes, roddies inventive mind never ceases to amaze.  It's a gift that he shares.

The 100 pack of 2-56X3/4 arrived today, along with some other things.  But darn, those screws need that little extra 1/6" to work securely.  As Jason thought, the 3/4" just catches the first thread or two.  Oh well, they will work cut down on the 5cc BB's among other things.  



MECOA has really improved in the communication, packing, and shipping departs.  Promptly shipped and tracking numbers supplied.

Thanks again roddie for another great tip. I have not, nor would I have ever thought to strengthen a dremel disc. It looks easy enough, and I have a couple on hand I will try it on. Thanks again.

I also thing it would be a good 'sticky' of little inventions.

Good tip Roddie !! I still believe you need to turn up the rpms on the dremail so it will cut and not drag as much

getback wrote:Good tip Roddie !! I still believe you need to turn up the rpms on the dremail so it will cut and not drag as much

Agreed! I am still mostly stuck on the 'slow and steady' approach, but after a few botched attempts, I too find that it does indeed cut better and cleaner at a quicker pace. Thanks for sharing that. Less time fiddling around and more time running these little gems...