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Post  Godsey3.0 Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:47 pm

Today me and my father were going to maiden his Skyray and his RC Bee (Only Maiden for us). When we went to start it it hydro locked and spun the prop loose. We looked in our flight box for a screwdriver and it just so happens we did not have one. We then looked in the truck and still could not find one. We were about to shove off and head home when my dad picked up a clip board and pointed to the tip. It was thin enough to tighten the prop screw efficiently. It took forever but it worked.

So I am wondering, what tool substitutes have you used in your time of need?
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:59 pm

Metal ruler,finger nails,pliers, blocks of wood and clamps.
EVERYTHING
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Post  PV Pilot Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:45 pm

Accidentally locked the keys in my 85 Iroc Camaro once,,with electric door locks.

Walked over to the Home Depot that was close by, bought 5 feet of thick copper grounding wire,, carefully snaked it thru the door window seal and slowly uncoiled it until I could poke the unlock button on the opposite side.

I have a gun sight adjusting tool on my keyring that doubles as a handy screwdriver when in need. Sears usually has the quarter sized screwdriver tool that rides on the keychain,,just a thought for next time.
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Post  SuperDave Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:11 am

PV:

You are very resourceful.

I've always placed a "hide-out" key in my vehicles for that very reason. I also carry AAA insurance for emergency situations like flat tires and getting stuck in the snow.

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Post  John Goddard Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:26 am

As above HAMMER
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Post  PV Pilot Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:36 am

SuperDave wrote:PV:

You are very resourceful.

I've always placed a "hide-out" key in my vehicles for that very reason. I also carry AAA insurance for emergency situations like flat tires and getting stuck in the snow.


Yup. It only took 1 time before I started hiding keys, along with a spare in my wallet.
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Post  SuperDave Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:47 am

As an aside, even a vehicle with "keyless entry" won't start it without a "computer-chipped" key in the ignition.

Additional "computer-chipped" keys are usually available only from dealers specializing in your make of car and run about $75 per copy.
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Post  SuperDave Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:43 am

As to utilitarian tools, it's pretty hard to beat a "Leatherman" which come in a variety of sizes.

Then there is alway the legendary "Swiss Army Knife" which also available in sizes.
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Post  WingingIt74 Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:13 am

Here is what I carry everyday.
Tool Substitutes Victorinox-%20hercules
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Post  dckrsn Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:37 pm

How about the SwissTool. I've been using this for 4 years, 5 days a week at work.

A little pricey, but I've tried most of the others and this one does it for me.

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Post  microflitedude Mon Jan 16, 2012 4:26 pm

Here is my favorite - Leatherman "Kick"

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Post  Jaspur_x Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:05 pm

WingingIt74 wrote:Here is what I carry everyday.
Tool Substitutes Victorinox-%20hercules

Ditto,for the last 30 yrs,I was a MacGuyver before MacGuyver was cool!! lol!
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Post  RknRusty Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:29 pm

I bet Colonel O'Neill carries one too.

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Post  Godsey3.0 Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:34 pm

I know this is not on topic entirely but it was an email from my uncle in Florida.

TOOLS EXPLAINED

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. It is especially valuable at being able to find the EXACT location of the thumb or index finger of the other hand.

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing your hand wide open when you do something stupid.

SON-OF-A-BITCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a BITCH!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Hope you found this informative.
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:54 pm

I've been carrying a Leatherman Crunch for the last 10 years. I find it bettern than the pliers and doesn't cut into your hands.

http://www.leatherman.com/product/Crunch
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Post  RknRusty Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:00 pm

My all time favorite:
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect

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Post  dckrsn Tue Jan 17, 2012 11:50 am

RknRusty wrote:My all time favorite:
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect

Ya gotta laugh when the car lifts off the jack stands. lol!
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Post  John Goddard Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:03 pm

SuperDave wrote:As an aside, even a vehicle with "keyless entry" won't start it without a "computer-chipped" key in the ignition.

Additional "computer-chipped" keys are usually available only from dealers specializing in your make of car and run about $75 per copy.

40 Quid Dave?
Me and you are going to go into business and make a fortune.
You won't get a key for anything with 4 wheels over here for less than 200 bucks
and then there's BMW and hoho Mercedes...........
Very Happy
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Post  nitroairplane Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:05 pm

John Goddard wrote:
SuperDave wrote:As an aside, even a vehicle with "keyless entry" won't start it without a "computer-chipped" key in the ignition.

Additional "computer-chipped" keys are usually available only from dealers specializing in your make of car and run about $75 per copy.

40 Quid Dave?
Me and you are going to go into business and make a fortune.
You won't get a key for anything with 4 wheels over here for less than 200 bucks
and then there's BMW and hoho Mercedes...........
Very Happy



Toyota ones are under £30

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Post  PV Pilot Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:54 pm

No transponder keys here,,I'll hack and slash in a race car button and dead switch before that.

It's easy enought to fab in a regular door key entry,,seen it done.
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Post  John Goddard Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:01 pm

nitroairplane wrote:
John Goddard wrote:
SuperDave wrote:As an aside, even a vehicle with "keyless entry" won't start it without a "computer-chipped" key in the ignition.

Additional "computer-chipped" keys are usually available only from dealers specializing in your make of car and run about $75 per copy.

40 Quid Dave?
Me and you are going to go into business and make a fortune.
You won't get a key for anything with 4 wheels over here for less than 200 bucks
and then there's BMW and hoho Mercedes...........
Very Happy



Toyota ones are under £30


What coded ones?
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Post  nitroairplane Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:12 pm

Think so.
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Post  microflitedude Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:21 pm

I remember my dad getting one made for an '87 Corvette. I think it was about 75 - $85.
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Post  Ivanhoe Tue Jan 17, 2012 4:46 pm

Those coded car keys are brilliant! Friend of mine bought one of the first Fiats to use them, drove it to work from the dealer. We all went out to admire it at lunchtime and it wouldn't start. The dealer sent a mechanic, who also couldn't start it. Ended up being removed on a low-loader, reason was, it suddenly decided it didn't recognise it's own coded key! My friend decided there was no way he was accepting a replacement of the same model, and had it replaced by one with a standard key! Just another of the numerous joys of computers!
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