Log in
Search
Latest topics
» Duende V model from RC Model magazine 1983.by roddie Today at 9:57 pm
» Free Flight Radio Assist
by MauricioB Today at 9:33 pm
» Roger Harris revisited
by MauricioB Today at 9:30 pm
» A Little 400 Mile Hop for Some Memory Lane Stuff, and to Hit a Swap Meet.
by MauricioB Today at 9:20 pm
» Happy 77th birthday Andrew!
by Kim Yesterday at 9:18 am
» Promote the forum with flyers!
by Admin Yesterday at 1:35 am
» Engine choice
by GallopingGhostler Mon Nov 25, 2024 4:03 pm
» My N-1R build log
by roddie Mon Nov 25, 2024 9:19 am
» Night flying at Walters RC park
by 1975 control line guy Sun Nov 24, 2024 7:29 pm
» Cox films/videos...
by GallopingGhostler Sun Nov 24, 2024 7:07 pm
» Cox 020 PeeWee rebuild questions
by LooseSpinner99 Sun Nov 24, 2024 6:13 pm
» Did you spot the Cox engine in this NASA research video?
by balogh Sun Nov 24, 2024 5:08 pm
Cox Engine of The Month
flat framed construction
Page 2 of 2
Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
thread-bump for Bernie
Hey ya'll. I hope some of you had a chance to go-over this thread. Bernie (Cox International) is willing to publish this concept in their quarterly e-magazine.
Richard (RKflyer) applied the concept.. to a couple of builds in this thread. I think you'd agree that they look great!
Just another point to make.. There are lots of sheet-wing (flat-wing..) 1/2A (as well as 1/4A..) airplane designs out there to build. Framing that wing can save on balsa. It also affords the application of a spar. Multiple clean-fitting frame pieces, make a flat-wing (frame) less-resistant to warping.. because of multiple grain-direction between the pieces. My flat-wing panels were all covered with TF Mono-Kote.. which is still drum-tight after 25 years. I can't speak for other covering-methods. This construction-method wouldn't warrant a doped rubbed-out finish any more than any little solid sheet-wing build would. It does provide for a different-approach to just butting two sheets of balsa together.. and trimming the perimeter to form the wing-profile. I installed a 1/8" x 1/2" stub-spar made from dark hardwood (walnut possibly) in my Rare Bear's wing. It was basically the leading-edge of the wing. I needed a scale/wing-mounted landing gear. This required making separate right and left gear-blocks.. also from hardwood.
The blocks were mounted to the bottom of that hardwood spar, to absorb the shock of a hard landing. I used to have a "one-method" approach to attaching 1/2A landing-gear. It was a single inverted "V-bent" music-wire gear, running-through the front of the wing-slot in the fuse.. and anchored by straps with screws through the ply fuse-doublers. That's the age-old approach to gear-installation on a c/l profile model.. that has gear. Plenty of flyers don't want landing-gear on their model. That's fine. A hard strip-wood spar in their wing will provide rigidity.. and could also serve as the ultimate bellcrank-mount.
Richard (RKflyer) applied the concept.. to a couple of builds in this thread. I think you'd agree that they look great!
Just another point to make.. There are lots of sheet-wing (flat-wing..) 1/2A (as well as 1/4A..) airplane designs out there to build. Framing that wing can save on balsa. It also affords the application of a spar. Multiple clean-fitting frame pieces, make a flat-wing (frame) less-resistant to warping.. because of multiple grain-direction between the pieces. My flat-wing panels were all covered with TF Mono-Kote.. which is still drum-tight after 25 years. I can't speak for other covering-methods. This construction-method wouldn't warrant a doped rubbed-out finish any more than any little solid sheet-wing build would. It does provide for a different-approach to just butting two sheets of balsa together.. and trimming the perimeter to form the wing-profile. I installed a 1/8" x 1/2" stub-spar made from dark hardwood (walnut possibly) in my Rare Bear's wing. It was basically the leading-edge of the wing. I needed a scale/wing-mounted landing gear. This required making separate right and left gear-blocks.. also from hardwood.
The blocks were mounted to the bottom of that hardwood spar, to absorb the shock of a hard landing. I used to have a "one-method" approach to attaching 1/2A landing-gear. It was a single inverted "V-bent" music-wire gear, running-through the front of the wing-slot in the fuse.. and anchored by straps with screws through the ply fuse-doublers. That's the age-old approach to gear-installation on a c/l profile model.. that has gear. Plenty of flyers don't want landing-gear on their model. That's fine. A hard strip-wood spar in their wing will provide rigidity.. and could also serve as the ultimate bellcrank-mount.
Re: flat framed construction
You may discover you can actually make rolling landings without the usual 1/2A nose-over if the grass is reasonably smooth. I'll be interested to see how that works.
Rusty
Rusty
_________________
Don't Panic!
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
RknRusty- Rest In Peace
- Posts : 10869
Join date : 2011-08-10
Age : 68
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: flat framed construction
RknRusty wrote:You may discover you can actually make rolling landings without the usual 1/2A nose-over if the grass is reasonably smooth. I'll be interested to see how that works.
Rusty
What...and abandon the traditional "bounce 'n flip" landings made famous by "hollow logs" being flown over grass?
George
gcb- Platinum Member
- Posts : 908
Join date : 2011-08-11
Location : Port Ewen, NY
Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Similar topics
» *SOLD* Walt Musciano Scientific "Red Tiger P-40" kit
» My N-1R build log
» tank construction
» Multi cylinder Valentines
» Space Bug Jr. box construction
» My N-1R build log
» tank construction
» Multi cylinder Valentines
» Space Bug Jr. box construction
Page 2 of 2
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum