Video dedicated to Roger Jordan

I think Roddie actually got the ball rolling on the NEW ACE throttle from Cox Inter. so Kudos to him , I have never tried one for lack of need but you never no when you may have the need . 1/2Anut that is one heavy looking engine but the throttle set up is cool looking . Thanks for bringing this out MauricioB! Eric

Hi Mauricio! Thanks so much to "you"! Nice job on building your own version of this throttle. Modern radio equipment is much more compact/lightweight than when Ace originally designed this. Easier now to fit a tiny servo to operate the throttle in a very small airplane. Years ago.. too heavy for Cox Babe Bee to have full radio control.. but not now.

I think that most RC aero-modelers avoided trying this throttle because the model needed to have a "built-up" construction for the nose.. and also be feather-weight (stick and tissue) making it too fragile for the weight of older radio equipment available at the time. Flying without throttle-control was risky.. because of no means to abort a flight. Receiver-packs were the heaviest single component of the model.. so the landing gear had to be extra strong (more weight). LiFe/LiPo Rx packs have changed all that.

Consider the fun you could have (if you like to build..) in building one of these kits for full-radio/throttle control.





Those are all Guillows kits still available.. as well as many others. If building multi-winged is more than you want to tackle.. then build a J-3 Cub!

Something to try for even lower idle.. is adding weight to the crankshaft by using a heavier prop.. and/or installing a balanced "heavy-hub" (spinner) or find small steel "fender-washers" having a 3.1mm center-hole.

Mauricio achieved a good low-idle "without" his glow-driver attached. My experiments were done "with" the glow-driver attached.. which I think accounted for my lower idle. I also used a muffler. Ace recommended the use of a muffler to hold heat in the cylinder at low RPM's. Note that it states this in the "original" Ace instructions.. but not in the reproduction's. Most Cox engine users don't like the idea of running the "Cox" muffler design.. because of the power-loss. That's understandable.. but you can enlarge the opening to be less or "non" restrictive and still retain more heat than running open-exhaust. Running a cowl would keep the engine hotter too.

Hey Mauricio... do you have an airplane plan for the engine yet?

P.S. I especially like your vids closing, with our country's flags!!! Thank you!

That's too cool, Thanks Mauricio for giving due credit to our #1 forum idea man, who never tires of pondering new ways to work with old things.
Rusty

One day walking videos on youtube, and found that Roddie had done, I wrote and he said commenting how it worked sending my personal email, photos of the items.
From internet and the goodwill of many people, it can create bonds of friendship anywhere in the world, learn and share, achieve feel well doing what we like, which is why I think my humble gesture, could not be anything other than thank you for your time.
The same think of each of you participating in this forum, giving life and turning knowledge so useful for many stakeholders.
I feel very comfortable here sharing with you, greetings, Mauricio.-

1/2A Nut wrote:Here are some more ideas (not mine)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1320182&page=2

What a beautiful piece, well made this !, thanks for sharing the photos!
Greetings, Mauricio.-

RknRusty wrote:That's too cool, Thanks Mauricio for giving due credit to our #1 forum idea man, who never tires of pondering new ways to work with old things.
Rusty

I am very grateful that I have received in the forum and make me feel very good. It is a pleasure for me to participate with you. Greetings, Mauricio.-

ian1954 wrote:A video in honour of Roddie! About time!

I steal his ideas all the time!

Another really nice video Mauricio.

Thank you for appreciating In the video, thank you very much.
I hope to receive soon your Norvel .15 !!!!
It seems that the mail makes mistakes like happens here too!
A hug ... Mauricio.-

getback wrote:I think Roddie actually got the ball rolling on the NEW ACE throttle from Cox Inter. so Kudos to him , I have never tried one for lack of need but you never no when you may have the need . 1/2Anut that is one heavy looking engine but the throttle set up is cool looking . Thanks for bringing this out MauricioB! Eric

Eric!, Nice to do this!
I hope your project is on track !, greetings, Mauricio.-

MauricioB wrote:

RknRusty wrote:That's too cool, Thanks Mauricio for giving due credit to our #1 forum idea man, who never tires of pondering new ways to work with old things.
Rusty

I am very grateful that I have received in the forum and make me feel very good. It is a pleasure for me to participate with you. Greetings, Mauricio.-

Hi Mauricio, I am also very grateful for this forum and making new friends from around the world!

I noticed on your video that you stop the engine by pinching the fuel line. You can also shut-down by moving the needle (plunger) all the way forward to block the air-intake-hole. You can set the throttle-servo "trim" on your transmitter to do this when the engine is mounted inside a model. For fine-tuning, you can try a clevis with threaded-rod "stub" locked in-place (solder/loc-tite) and advance/retard by turning the fuel-tubing (flexible-link) in or out.




The effective linear-travel in/out of the plunger is only as long as its taper.. so you will probably want to link to one of the inner-holes on a servo-arm. You can measure this travel with a ruler while bench-running. You can also offset the throttle-servo to the side by using a bell-crank, if you need more area for a fuel tank.

I made this linkage and engine mount to fit in a boat. The bell-crank (horn) has many holes for adjusting.



Lots of ways to try!