covering material?

Ian I have used it. Excellent product but it is heavy if your trying to acquire a decent finish. It takes LOADS of dope to fill the weave. I brushed on 3 coats, and sprayed 3 coats of clear prior to going to color. I burnished the clear with a Scotch Brite scuff pad because you can't sand on top of this as it will snag and fuzz up the area making it almost non repairable. This product has a weave and if the substrate isn't properly sanded and ALL edges radiused it will cut along the weave. A big negative for me as I found out the hard way but once resolved, I found it to be pleasant to use. Stix-it the recommended product to install it works well but it's horribly heavy easily adding over an ounce and it wicks through the weave making the covering slide and it creates shiny spots which don't go away and it follows all the way to final coat. Installing this product with nitrate from start to finish is best. This product doesn't cut across grain and it starts to pull the weave. I place it between light paper top and bottom and tape it down to cut it. Pinking shears doesn't cut it either. It makes the most beautiful and free cloth hinges which are almost invisible and incredibly strong. I use the scraps for this. Once Polyspan was introduced, it makes this product non existent for me at least. I highly recommend the stuff for sport flying as it can strengthen and keep hangar rash away. Ken

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the reply. I have had the stuff sitting around for a while and was impressed with the strength but the weave was putting me off.

There are a few models I intend to build that need assistance from the covering for strength.

Thanks for the tips.

Is there a right side and a wrong side to it? On the sample I have - one side looks weavier than the other.

Well I see there has been a big response to the question on coverings.I think I have been given quite abit of information to consider.
thanks all
jim

Ian, I haven't had a problem with installing it upside down and right side up. The one thing I didn't mention though, when cutting for size prior to application, give yourself a substantial amount. It shrinks a lot. When you cover the top wing panel and wrap it over the bottom, you must provide adhesive for the overlap. This is why I liked the dope method. Any fraying that took place during cutting can be doped over and some mild sanding will break the frays off. When installing, don't pull too tight as this distorts the weave. A heat gun just like for Monokote will shrink any problematic wrinkles out. Watch especially at areas of intersection like fuse to wing joint. If not properly stuck down, the covering will shrink back. I put my fillets on prior to shrinking and this insures it won't pull back. Ken

Thanks Ken. I am getting to the stage where I have a few models to cover and want to try new materials without ending up with a grotty finish or distorting the model (like I did with the P51).

I used this material on my Lil Satan 1/2A. It did distort the model. However, I can easily tweak the wing with a little heat and it generally keeps for months. I always twist it a bit prior to flying giving it the old eyeball method and go fly. Even with paint on it, it can easily be tweaked with the iron.