Line Connectors and Lead-Outs

Hey there Rusty. Could you please share a bit more detail about the jig you got there. It looks like a good little project. Thank you.

I forgot to mention that for me, I am using standard fishing leaders for my ships. I would also like to mention that I fly only 1/2a size planes.

Luxon clips are still used. I still use them but I will say from experience that they can open. I had them rip out of the slider and straighten resulting in the model flying away. The first time it happened I figured it was a fluke. The second time, I knew that they're just not strong enough. Too many times I see modelers hook up their lines, check the handles and never slide the clip to lock it. I go and assist to help return the model to the pits only to find not just one, but both clips are unlocked. Use the other clips and this isn't an issue. I use them only on low powered models and smaller stunters. They do work on 1/2A, but the clips Roddie shows to the right are superior to them. If tangling is a concern, slip tubing over your clips. I use button bellcranks on speed and combat planes which takes many of the concerns out of the picture not to mention the low drag they provide.

RknRusty wrote:

These are the ones I use on all my planes ... non-staggered ..... never had a problem.  I also exclusively use hard point handles.

Ok i'll bite what are Hard Point Handles ?? I cant seem to find anything out there on this item . Eric

Looks just like this .... as a matter of fact, this type is my favorite.  Love the biased configuration.  It helps my wrist stay at neutral and I find it very comfortable

The full page and description can be found here:
http://stunthanger.com/hobby/product_info.php?cPath=24_45&products_id=127

Thanks Larry I kind-A thought that was what you were talking about , Nice looking handle , it don't say what the adjustable spacing is too can you tell me if its not too much trouble . Eric

I believe the narrowest spacing would be the 3" range .... I'm at work and can't give a precise figure ....

This is what I had in mind.


I'm not flying at a level that requires this precise trim. I'd bash a plane into the ground sooner than I got perfect trim(I'm on a roll) They are more precise than the cable handle's I use.
Rusty

So, with hard point handles, how do you adjust the neutral position between one plane and another when you switch?

This is the handle I use and I really like it, thinking of getting another.

https://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm

Since we are on the subject of handles, though that I would post a pic of my Raco hard point handle as another example. (Bandit)

I'll second the RSM style handle, great handle, that's what i used back in the day and for decades its was probably the most common, but it seems the Hard point type have become more popular in recent years. As far as neutral position you'd need to adjust for what feels comfortable to you and how the plane turns inside verses outside. I'd adjust the airplane first, then the handle to increase or decrease throw movement.

badbill wrote:So, with hard point handles, how do you adjust the neutral position between one plane and another when you switch?

Personally ... I have a separate handle and lines for each airplane. Once its set up .... its always perfect.

badbill wrote:So, with hard point handles, how do you adjust the neutral position between one plane and another when you switch?

You use different length line clips to adjust neutral. That's where the jig for bending your own clips in 1/16" increments comes in handy.

Jim

To heck with that, I think my handle will suit me for a while to come

I made some mods to this "Sagan" handle.. and found a cracked crimp-barrel in the process.



My dad had given me the handle a few years ago. I'd never used it.. and wanted a special handle for my CEF Reed Speed model. I drilled and chamfered the frame to add more narrow line-spacing options. The cable-clamp "had" a button-head socket screw for a threaded-hole in the frame.



I installed a longer screw from the outside-in.. and have a wing-nut/lock-washer on there now.

larrys4227 wrote:

badbill wrote:So, with hard point handles, how do you adjust the neutral position between one plane and another when you switch?

Personally ... I have a separate handle and lines for each airplane.  Once its set up .... its always perfect.

Yeah, that's an advanced flyer thing, dedicated handle and line sets for each plane. Not for me, and not for sport flyers. I use cable handles temporarily dedicated till I kill its plane

roddie wrote: It's said that staggering the lead-out eyes can avoid tangles.. especially with combat models.

I always stagger my leadout eyelets. Always. Of course, that's because I tie them freehand and can never make lines match perfectly...

The Uneven Mark

RknRusty wrote:

larrys4227 wrote:

badbill wrote:So, with hard point handles, how do you adjust the neutral position between one plane and another when you switch?

Personally ... I have a separate handle and lines for each airplane.  Once its set up .... its always perfect.

Yeah, that's an advanced flyer thing, dedicated handle and line sets for each plane. Not for me, and not for sport flyers. I use cable handles temporarily dedicated till I kill its plane

LOL! I hope your not saying I'm advanced .... Nooooo .... I dont wanna be!! LOL!

Even as a kid, I remember separate handles and lines for each plane. Back then, we would roll up the lines/handle and rubber band it to the inboard wing.

Say it with me .... SportFlier .....SportFlier .....SportFlier .....

With the RSM type you could just swap out the bar, but yes most people just use a dedicated lines and handle for each plane.

I am with Mark On the uneven lines , just so happens I made a set of 35' yesterday lines looped through the handle from Roger Harris (where the heck is he anyway ) for adjustment and to many fishing lures on a set of independent lines so they were not one long loop through the handle and all my planes have swivels on the lead outs . 1.5 hr. later . I just cant get the knot they recommend but keep tring , never was a big fisherman so didn't tie that kind of knot was in the scouts though Need to make a set of 15' now and I can put them to this handle or maybe just loop through the handle since there so short > Eric

batjac wrote:

I always stagger my leadout eyelets.  Always.  Of course, that's because I tie them freehand and can never make lines match perfectly...

The Uneven Mark

Mark, There was some discussion awhile back, on this. I think it had to do with chamfering all holes where the line will thread-through.. to help prevent abrasion. Do you use "Spectra"-type braid with a nylon bell-crank? How about the guides? I like the thought of using a safety-pin eye for a guide(s) because they're smooth all the way around on both sides.

getback wrote:I am with Mark On the uneven lines , just so happens I made a set of 35' yesterday lines looped through the handle from Roger Harris (where the heck is he anyway ) for adjustment and to many fishing lures on a set of independent lines so they were not one long loop through the handle and all my planes have swivels on the lead outs . 1.5 hr. later . I just cant get the knot they recommend but keep tring , never was a big fisherman so didn't tie that kind of knot was in the scouts though Need to make a set of 15' now and I can put them to this handle or maybe just loop through the handle since there so short > Eric

Yea Eric, I was wondering the same about Roger. Hope he's just busy with other stuff..

"Never was a big fisherman"... (me either..) and I too have trouble with that knot.. You're using fishing lures though.. and (OMG) "swivels" on some of your planes?    I was told to never use swivels. Maybe they'd be ok for that 15' line-set you're making.. but I wouldn't get in the habit of using them for anything larger than 1/4A flying. Just my