mitsubishi zero .010-.020 size .

It's 14.5" I used what seems to be B grade balsa it sands off very easy , I am thinking assemble sanding sealer 2 coats then spray all one color to speed things up , I have got 3 other planes to build one started the others in my mine . And I would like to fly sometime !! Getback

I am working on it took 3 day to glue the wing on fuse ,, to keep the glue from running while I wasn't watching !?!         Just stuck the rear end on its not ready and made my own parts  1.5 " bellcrank a 1/3 of that size control arm / elev. ii changed the firewall to round the plans were for a PeeWee ....,    I am thinking Olive Green the whole thing and put some Zero's on it so when we shoot skeet !! just kidding , I am looking forward to fling my first .020-.010size plane that I built . Need to clean and run one soon that 's a first too . Eric

Update on the Mitsubishi Zero build ,, wood is thin and small CA. 30 min. epoxy and a little tite-bond , sewn hinges with carpet thread had a pull through and had to mix up some balsa dust / glue / spit rub, smoothed on nice, sand r down and I should bee ready for some clear hot dope proofing tomorrow ,  here's where I am nowwwwww          weight now 20.5 gr. Eric

It's looking good Eric. Hinges look nice and even. Got a color scheme picked out? Or just olive green?

Lookin' good man remember to keep it light! I'm hoping to maiden my micro ring in a day or too and it's gonna flat move out when I do. The way the engine pulls it it's gonna out run my goodyear lol. (Bandit)

Hey Eric, did you by chance make paper templates? I'd love to borrow them if you did. Or a copy of the templates or plans. If you can scan it and open the image in Microsoft Word, and save it as a PDF and e-mail it to me, that would work. Nice little plane, and I need something to bolt the TE to also.
Rusty

Yea I am getting excited about it , I am trying to stay with one color if I can get my gun to spray the old aero I picked up some time back and maybe put some 0 's on it . I am trying to keep weight down as much as possible we will see after doping /sanding sealer / paint , just need to add lead outs and ply bellcrank /wire I made for it .o stuff the landing gear I forgot about that the plan ones want work ?? Rusty Shoot me your e-mail and i'll send you what I have its in Spanish I think but you will get it LOL the engine mount was for a Pee Wee so I had to make something diff. any way Thanks Guys I can always use the boost . Eric

Ok I have very little offset in the rudder and am going to be nose heavy with a tanked TD .020 , I am thinking a penny as wing tip weight 1.5 gr. would bee enough ??? and should I place it in the middle of the WT or at the rear since I am nose heavy . may need some advice on the lead outs also when I get were I can hang the plane from them . Thanks , Eric

Excellent, Mark. Haven't seen the Zero-sen modeled in .020 size yet for CL.

GEORGE ,,,, Mark ???? its Eric wing weight .

getback wrote:GEORGE ,,,, Mark ???? its Eric wing weight .

Eric La Mark? Oops, sorry, Eric. Still a nice plane.

That's OK I have been in the moment's a lot lately myself , but I would be proud to mirror Mark , Thanks , now that wing weight ?? Eric

Well here is my bassactward progress the hinges stiffed up after dope and sealer , the wood is so thin that it broke in a couple places at the stitching so I cut it out yesterday , raining next few days good time to build /// this plane is made for the PeeWee and a TD is too heavy for it no CG so I had to back up and regroup but ......Its all good just note to self always dope /prime/paint before hinging  any way here it is waiting for me   I just hate that I have to cut the rudder to get the elev. back in there Eric

Yes, I've done stuff like that before. Made a mistake on my Berkeley Impulse build, not careful, caused cowl pinch to be too narrow so I couldn't use either the A.C. Gilbert .11 Thunderhead (similar side port to Fox .09 Rocket on plans) or Enya .09-III TV. To make apple sauce out of miscut apples, I'm going with a 1966 OS Max .10R/C.

You might be able to rig a joiner wire or hardwood joiner by drilling or cutting a hole. Assemble elevator carefully using slot and holes. Then install stabilizer. finish by carefully hinging both once glue dries.

Or, with a clean cut from a razor sharp knife, may be slightly away from the glue joint, would allow installing the elevator. Once glued, could be repaired such that no one would know.

Hey Eric.. This is a little "out there".. but, you could build a half-hinged elevator, like some of the guys were doing on their speed models.

This is CryHavoc (Mike's) Yak.

and Remy's Polecat


It's not likely you'll be doing any overheads with 15' lines.. right? It's a ZERO.. set-up a balloon-bust and have at it!

Not into the 1/2 elev. Thanks though , hea got in a hurry George , I was on a roll and thought I could get by with painting just one color I could shoot it and bee done Just cooked a lemon cake going with cream cheese frosting , had plans for HM BBQ opened the ham up and smelt like ass so now I have to go to the store to return and get another cant get that smell out of my nose ... mite have to get out the glue sooner than I had intended The razor blade sounds good maybe can slit it and get the thing through there , I am going to glass that connection wire on the elevator this time and am thinking of going up to 3/32" and I just measured the pieces were I cut out the stab/elev. before and they were thinner than that called for 2mm I don't have mm wood !! I still don't like the Metric system after 30+ years . Eric

getback wrote:Ok I have very little offset in the rudder and am going to be nose heavy with a tanked TD .020 , I am thinking a penny as wing tip weight 1.5 gr. would bee enough ??? and should I place it in the middle of the WT or at the rear since I am nose heavy . may need some advice on the lead outs also when I get were I can hang the plane from them . Thanks , Eric

Sorry about the ham.. I wrote this before your last post.. and am just throwing some ideas out there. Since no one's commented on the tip weight.. A penny seems a lot to me.. although the new issues aren't copper and weigh less .. I don't recall what sizes of balsa sheet you're using throughout. I imagine 3/16" sheet fuse and 3/32" sheet wing/tail? I think this model is a better candidate for that .010 that's coming.. than an .020.. What's the wing area? I'm guessing less than 45 squares. A 14" span x 3" avg. chord would be 42 sq. in.

You'd have more adjustability if you used a single-eye lead-out guide for both lead-outs to thread through. I used two safety pins for guides in this example, but you could use just one and have more linear area to adjust at the tip.

Update time, a few decals and a spray cover of lUSTREKOTE clear > was going for more pilots but didn't  like the white back ground on the decals and the rudder half I cut out to replace the elev/stab. assy got lost ? if I find it I'll put it on .. I have a Pee Wee I want to mount to test fly before the .010T/E gets here ... To day was not a good day to spray but I been in side for a few days because of the rain and after the first pic I turned it over and sprayed then picked it up after a few mint. and had picked up some of my box at the cockpit . So here it is without the engine and control lines ...         getback