Make a control line model out of this???

There is slow cure foam safe epoxy you can warm up the bottles in hot water so its runny and paint it on with a foam brush.
If your feeling hardcore cover it up in balsa or glass it should be very strong then and able to handle IC for seasons.

Is the electric motor mount sturdy enough to use one of these in the picture? I know you have the additional consideration of the engine weight and vibration. Some epoxy and fiberglass reinforcement might get the job done.


This is a nice plane, I'd love to see a successful conversion.
Rusty

that is a nice looking plane for the money I think the epoxy would be the trick as Chris was saying , 09 would do it as not to get out there slamming you around It is hard to tell if the if a mount and engine would fit without to much mods , sounds like fun .

Thanks Phil, I answered this last night but as happens it vanished. Me thinks that 1/2A and I hit the send button at the same time and he won. Anyway.....

I will just lock the rudder slightly off center and the ailerons on center. I may retain the throttle adding a servo and receiver (tiny bit of weight) and hang the transmitter around my neck for throttle control.

and 1/2A, epoxy sounds like it could work as a barrier. I will have to epoxy in a firewall and add one of the mounts that Rusty pictured. I have several of those round Tatone mounts that should fit.

And yes, Eric, I think an Enya .09 would do the job, low and slow like me.

Bob

I'd think all of the fun would be in it being electric.
The idea I've had, and have yet to do, is to remove just the elevator servo from a model with all of the components and fly it with the radio as the control head for all but the elevator which would be controlled with a handle and bellcrank as normal for a C/L model.
Throttle, flaps, speed brakes, retracts, canopy, rudder and aileron for pefect trimming, would all be there for your use. The Skyraider is a perfect example too, with all of the moving stuff. Just imagine, approaching to land, gear down, hook down, flaps down, milking the speed brakes, canopy open, a little scarf on the pilot flapping, and then pulling the power at the "cut" paddles from the LSO! There are even sound cards available to make the thing sound like a Wright. I think that kind of thing is too cool.
I have several foam R/C models, an FMS Cobra II, Park Zone T-28, Radian 84" power glider, PBY, Arcus biplane Pattern ship, Staggerwing Beech, and they are some of the finest made, best flying models I've ever had. These types are a real change in the RTF mindset. These are better looking, more capable, and fly way better than anything that has come before in RTF and certainly far ahead of any 60's Cox, Comet, Wen Mac, Aurora RTF ever was or could be because the foam has replaced the plastic.
Chris...

P.S. I have just started flying my FMS Cobra II and it's a super flying model. It comes with installed electric servoless retracts with metal trunnion nosegear with servo steering, flaps, all servos and a four bladed prop and is a fast model so is a little small at 39 inch span and is for 4S batteries. It hauls the mail with the scale prop, guys are flying them with 12x12 APCs and around 110 mph. Though the speed stuff isn't much use to C/L guys, the fact that it is so capable, and so well made and flies so well with all of the high quality components that are necessary like the nose gear being metal is really a bargain at 180 bucks when on sale. I paid 209 and still feel it was well worth it. For a Scale competition model in the Fun Scale category it AMA contests, even the Nats, I think it's a real winner. Not only this one, but it seems FMS and Dynam have come out with really excellent models lately. My Staggerwing is very similar, retracts, flaps, steerable tailwheel, scale looking big ole prop, very nice and good flying too.

Strong statement Chris, but true. These foamies fly really well.



The electronics are light, tiny and reliable, and easily transferred from plane to plane and yes, they are quite inexpensive. I am starting to agree, while I would love to try a glow engine the practical choice is electric but my mind is still open. I do have another A1 with a motor but no electronics, I may keep the subject plane as parts replacement and fly that C/L.





I haven't flown this B-25 yet, chicken I guess. Maybe it's waiting for my son with calmer nerves.



Great looking Cobra BTW.

Bob

What are you waiting for rsv?

Yes I came over from the other thread .... how exciting to set this up as throttle controlled Fun Scale!!

Just my opinion ... I can see it as electric for sure ....

Its a fighter plane .... Fly it!!

larrys4227 wrote:What are you waiting for rsv?  

Yes I came over from the other thread .... how exciting to set this up as throttle controlled Fun Scale!!

Just my opinion ... I can see it as electric for sure ....

Its a fighter plane .... Fly it!!

Courage Larry, courage....or the lack of it.  Dizzyness caused me to dump my last C/L escapade after only a few laps.  My son was there to capture the moment on camera.  Me laying on the ground.  25' lines and a 35 year hiatus from C/L got me.

I have several examples of this model (I was in a Skyraider Squadron back in the '60's), the one pictured at top is a stripped replacement parts plane.  Yes, when I do it I will run one of the electrics with the servos and electric motor already installed similar to your tail dragger project and set up the same way, only electric not fuel.

I'm learning techniques from your thread.

Bob

1/2A Nut wrote:There is slow cure foam safe epoxy you can warm up the bottles in hot water so its runny and paint it on with a foam brush.
If your feeling hardcore cover it up in balsa or glass it should be very strong then and able to handle IC for seasons.

I was going to suggest the same thing. I have used Zpoxy and Fiberglass to seal foam, and it works pretty well. The only issue is that you will increase the weight and cover the decals, etc. I think you might be able to get away with just sealing it with Zpoxy, but I am not sure. Andy

anm2 wrote:

1/2A Nut wrote:There is slow cure foam safe epoxy you can warm up the bottles in hot water so its runny and paint it on with a foam brush.
If your feeling hardcore cover it up in balsa or glass it should be very strong then and able to handle IC for seasons.

I was going to suggest the same thing.  I have used Zpoxy and Fiberglass to seal foam, and it works pretty well.  The only issue is that you will increase the weight and cover the decals, etc.  I think you might be able to get away with just sealing it with Zpoxy, but I am not sure.  Andy

How about very thin Elmers white glue, wouldn't that be lighter than Zpoxy?
Rusty

Thanks guys, I have decided to go electric with this project, I still prefer fuel, but electric is so much more practical with no engine or fuel tank install.

I will however need to seat the wing line guide in a secure fashion. RTV, epoxy, white glue, are options. Maybe an upside down T made out of poplar/bass wood coming up through the foam would ensure that it would not come loose.

I don't see that any C/L modification to the plane would prevent it's return to R/C.... other than me dumping it that is.

Bob