Sandable Filler Material

KariFS wrote:"Traditionally", before paint, you first sand the balsa as smooth as you can, with 240 or even 400 grit, then apply a coat of 30-50% thinned dope or clearcoat (compatible with the paint you are going to use), sand, apply another coat, sand and repeat until you are happy with the surface. After maybe two coats of clear you can use filler to fill dents and such. The filler I have used is not water soluble, it is meant for outdoors and can be painted with almost anything.

TDbandit wrote:MicroBalloons, Dave Brown products used to make it other companies make it too Alumilite is one which can be gotten at hobby town and ther like. It's very light and all you do is mix it with what ever resin or material you are using by volume. You can use balsa dust too as well. (Bandit)

... Sig Skyray wrote:Epoxy doesn't seem so sandable.

Sig Skyray wrote:...
Gee, after all this input and research, hope I don't nose dive the Skyray to splinters the first day out.  Learning a lot and plan to build more so it's all good.

Greg

Ken Cook wrote:        In the event that most aren't aware, the Skyray is tail heavy. It requires about 3-4 nose breaks before it flies correctly when glued back on with CA. I wouldn't be overly concerned with a fillet at the cheek block. The block already is making a stress riser right at that intersection and it will snap the nose off with the engine directly behind the cheek block. The solution to fixing that is to provide a piece of 1/64" ply with the grain running the same direction as the fuse and notch it out to slide back onto the wing about 1 1/4" then apply the cheek blocks over it. For added strength and reinforcement a strip of 1/2 oz glass cloth can be laid over that joint with slo cure epoxy or finishing resin. This is structural and not cosmetic like a filler.

Sig Skyray wrote:Didn't you mean to say tail-heavy Rusty?  And now I do remember you mentioning that.  I failed to jot that in my notes.

Thoughts... Why not find and adjust the CG before the first flight?  I will investigate how to do this but can't it be found fairly close by trying to balance the fuse (with engine attached of course?) on a pencil or something round?

We could use a wiki so you experts don't have to keep typing the same advice to us newbies.  I find the search function built into the site many times gives me zero results for what I know is there.  Tried both buttons, search inside this site and search this site by Google.

So next investigation topic is how to trim a plane.  As always, many thanks to all.  Greg

RknRusty wrote:I did mean Tail Heavy. I edited it so it's right now. You can build with the CG in mind. Of my last three planes, the Yak-9, Osprey(Skyray35-Flite Streak bash), and ARF Oriental, two have needed no weight anywhere to balance, and the Osprey took some lead in the nose, though my flying buddy didn't think so. But his hand is much steadier than mine. On 1/2A I put round head sewing pins in the wingtip where the CG, measured at the root, should be. I can pick it up by the pins as I adjust. But it'll never be true until all the finish is on it and dry.
Rusty

Ken Cook wrote: One thing I would pay close attention to is the single screw control horn provided with the kit. A poor design which can result in a crash if not closely inspected. The horn will just rotate on the screw vs moving the elevator. There's no footprint on that horn so tightening it usually crushes the wood not to mention pull through the wood. I dislike that horn due to it's size and I use a medium Dubro horn . A small drop of epoxy on the mating side of the horn to elevator can prevent it from turning.