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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:11 pm

1/2A Nut wrote:Do you have a pic ?


Not yet. I have pictures of the engine only. I may be able to make pictures of the engine and dynamo. I also intend to make a video.

I am on the cell phone now and cannot easily repost the links to the pictures and videos but they are in the previous posts.
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:27 pm

Oldenginerod wrote:I wonder if you could use something like this to regulate the voltage output.  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Swich-Solar-Panel-Charger-Controller-Regulator-for-Solar-Lamp-Light-PWM-12V-/400695571701?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d4b5134f5
They are common & inexpensive.


I am able to use a voltage regulator as previously posted. For now, I will try to adjust the voltage per constant load by the engine controls. I also have a 12VDC to USB car cigarette lighter charger which would adjust most voltages to 5VDC.

As mentioned I have a schematic with power, voltage and current monitoring which also uses a common collector buffer transistor and a Zener diode to give 12VDC from any higher than around 13VDC. There are losses in the transistor but, because the voltage is somewhat controllable by the engine controls, the power loss can be minimized to a Watt or two.

I can also use switching power supply which will give any voltage output from any voltage input higher than 1.8VDC without power loss.

The advantage of the loss driven common collector buffer is a cleaner voltage with less spikes and switching notice. The switching power supply tackles these by using a very high switching frequency.

The disadvantage of the buffer is power loss which, in this case, can be minimised by adjusting the voltage to, say, 14VDC for a given load. Thus, there will be 2VDC lost in the transistor. In case of 2A current, the loss is 4W.
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Sun Mar 15, 2015 3:38 pm

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:
1/2A Nut wrote:Do you have a pic ?
 

Not yet. I have pictures of the engine only. I may be able to make pictures of the engine and dynamo. I also intend to make a video.

I am on the cell phone now and cannot easily repost the links to the pictures and videos but they are in the previous posts.


Pictures of the Engine, the Dynamo and the Stand : http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/Pictures%20of%20the%20Engine,%20the%20Dynamo%20and%20the%20Stand.doc
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Sun Mar 15, 2015 3:38 pm

http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/Pictures%20of%20the%20Engine,%20the%20Dynamo%20and%20the%20Stand.doc
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make your own reeds - Micro 12VDC Generator with a Cox .049 Sure Start Diesel Engine - Page 10 Empty ELECTRICAL

Post  StevenStanleyBayes Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:03 pm

Please, note : this post contains information and explanations in regards to the electrical pert of the generator only.

There is not much information on the engine and the dynamo. There is not any information on the electronics system for voltage regulation and power, voltage and current monitoring and auto disconnect.

I understand most people here are interested in the engines mainly but I have decided to post this topic because this topic is directly related to the project.

The thesis has been appended with the electrical information and explanations as well as other topics described here. The electrical information and explanations are currently last on the thesis, just scroll down. The thesis, again, is at : http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/Cox%20.049%20SureStart%20Diesel.doc

Here are all of the related to the project links again :

Thesis : http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/Cox%20.049%20SureStart%20Diesel.doc
Pictures of the Engine and the Stand : http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/Pictures%20of%20the%20Engine%20and%20the%20Stand.doc
Pictures of the Engine, the Dynamo and the Stand : http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/Pictures%20of%20the%20Engine,%20the%20Dynamo%20and%20the%20Stand.doc
Video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7FfparKL78&list=UUiFdItymm78mcEB5Qlu67tg
Electrical Schematics : http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/12VDC%20Micro%20Generator%20with%20Micro%20Engine%20with%20Internal%20Combustion.123

The schematics has been made available in .jpg format in the thesis as well as in a PCB .123 format in the link.
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:57 pm

In one of the previous replies, I may have written the starter battery voltage can be measured as a diode drop added to the reading of the voltmeter.

This has been corrected in the last posts. The starter battery voltage is two diode drops higher than the voltmeter readings. The voltage which is applied to the dynamo ( in the role of an electric starter motor ) is a diode drop higher than the reading of the voltmeter.

Sorry. A positional ( combinational ) mistake with not considering all of the diodes ( resources ).

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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Mon Mar 16, 2015 6:51 pm

Changed the pulley on the engine. The engine now has a pulley with an approximate diameter of 1.3cm. The Dynamo has the same pulley but I have reported a wrong number. The approximate diameter of the dynamo pulley is 1.5cm. Thus, the gear ratio of engine to dynamo pulleys is approximately 0.87. The target was approximately 1, this is a close enough ratio.

This ratio will reduce the rotational ( torque ) resistance to the engine as the previous successful run was with a pulley gear ratio of 1.6, nearly double. Assuming 12VDC at 0 load can be reached of approximately 2500 RPM by the dynamo, this means the engine has to rotate at 2874 RP which is approximately 3000 RPM to provide 12VDC at 0 load.

Assembled the fan to the dynamo.

Changed the engine propeller to the 3.5 inch triple propeller. This may reduce the inertia but will also reduce power consumption. The aeration should probably be good enough.

Secured the engine pulley with a couple of washers.

Used the previously made pulley from 1.5cm sink tap washers ( rubber ) with a pulley canal cut with a knife and a triangular file and this washer super glued to a couple of rims made of approximately 1mm thick plastic.

Must be aware the dynamo fan blows air into the dynamo as supposed to but may also blow some exhaust fluids inside. Castor Oil is OK but unburned Ether, Kerosene and Cetone Booster are not as these are supposed to conduct electricity. Hopefully, this will not happen. Of course, I am able to install bigger shield protectors ( the yellow plastic ones on the pictures ) to be positioned as close to the belts as possible but then I will not be able to use the 8 inch dual blade Cox Texaco propeller. I have not measured the room I have but I may be OK with a 6 inch or lower propeller.

For now, I will attempt a 3.5 inch triple blade propeller and, I hope, I will not have any exhaust fluids reaching the dynamo.

In case of an exhaust pipe as discussed, there would not be any mess. I must make one but not now.




Last edited by StevenStanleyBayes on Mon Mar 16, 2015 7:11 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Mon Mar 16, 2015 7:00 pm

I have been thinking on these questions and I would like to ask you all of your opinions.

1. What happens when the diesel head is replaced by a glow plug head and diesel fuel is used?
2. Will the head provide enough compression without the Teflon protection gasket and the counter piston disk?
3. Will the chamber be of similar size?
4. Assuming the engine starts on compression ignited Ether ( as standard ) can the diesel fuel heat up the glow plug to make the glow plug glow due to the diesel burning and no constant electrical power?
5. What happens when electrical power is constantly present at the glow plug? Will the glow plug constantly glow?
6. Assuming the glow plug would glow, will this help the ignition of Ether and Kerosene? The compression will, of course, continue to be present.
7. Assuming the glow plug glows, can I start the engine with the standard amount of Ether to heat the engine and the glow plug and then switch to a reduced Ether fuel?
8. Can I use an alternative fuel with the glow plug gotten to glow with a standard fuel?
9. Do you have any other ideas on this and related subjects?
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Post  roddie Tue Mar 17, 2015 5:34 am

Hi Steven, I don't know very much about diesel model engines.. but I'm pretty sure that you won't achieve combustion without the increased compression that the Cox diesel-conversion head provides. A standard glow-fuel plug; even constantly "driven" I'm pretty sure wouldn't ignite model diesel fuel. I believe that it's the "Methanol" component alone; found in glow-fuel, that is the catalyst for ignition via the platinum coil-element found in model engine glow-plugs.
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Post  robot797 Tue Mar 17, 2015 5:52 am

I will explain it when I am at a PC again
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Post  Surfer_kris Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:58 am

You can power the glowplug and run on diesel fuel. Many engines will run very smoothly like that. You cannot however disconnect the power to the glowplug as it will not stay lit on its own without methanol in the fuel.
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Post  robot797 Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:37 am

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:I have been thinking on these questions and I would like to ask you all of your opinions.

1. What happens when the diesel head is replaced by a glow plug head and diesel fuel is used?
2. Will the head provide enough compression without the Teflon protection gasket and the counter piston disk?
3. Will the chamber be of similar size?
4. Assuming the engine starts on compression ignited Ether ( as standard ) can the diesel fuel heat up the glow plug to make the glow plug glow due to the diesel burning and no constant electrical power?
5. What happens when electrical power is constantly present at the glow plug? Will the glow plug constantly glow?
6. Assuming the glow plug would glow, will this help the ignition of Ether and Kerosene? The compression will, of course, continue to be present.
7. Assuming the glow plug glows, can I start the engine with the standard amount of Ether to heat the engine and the glow plug and then switch to a reduced Ether fuel?
8. Can I use an alternative fuel with the glow plug gotten to glow with a standard fuel?
9. Do you have any other ideas on this and related subjects?

1. when you make it glow it runs
2. yes but it cant run or start on its own
3. no it is bigger the teflon disk makes the room realy small
4. no the platium glows with ethanol fapours and not there fapors
5. yes it will glow like a lightbulp and it will do so for a long long time
6. yes as long as it glow the diesel fuel will burn
7. yes but it cant run without power on the glowplug
8. yes i have run a engine on isopropanol mixed with wd40 (runs normal) and straid white-spirit with 30% castor oil (runs realy realy hot)
9. lose the pullies and go for a direct drive or a gearbox
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 12:29 pm

roddie wrote:Hi Steven, I don't know very much about diesel model engines.. but I'm pretty sure that you won't achieve combustion without the increased compression that the Cox diesel-conversion head provides. A standard glow-fuel plug; even constantly "driven" I'm pretty sure wouldn't ignite model diesel fuel. I believe that it's the "Methanol" component alone; found in glow-fuel, that is the catalyst for ignition via the platinum coil-element found in model engine glow-plugs.  


Thank you for this excellent reply. I am happy you have outlined the importance of Methanol. Cox suggests to use Methanol as the main component of the DIESEL fuel as well. Cox suggests to make the diesel fuel of 70% Methanol and 30% Ether. Than to mix 70% of this fuel with 30% Castor Oil. I also prefer Methanol. The only reason I am using Kerosene is because I cannot find Methanol around. I have found isopropyl ethanol on the pharmacies but I have never tried this yet.
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 12:31 pm

robot797 wrote:I will explain it when I am at a PC again


Thanks. I like your responses and will wait for this one.
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 12:35 pm

Surfer_kris wrote:You can power the glowplug and run on diesel fuel. Many engines will run very smoothly like that. You cannot however disconnect the power to the glowplug as it will not stay lit on its own without methanol in the fuel.


Thank you. This is an excellent idea even without Methanol and will cost less than 5W which will probably be made because of better burning.

Also :

Thank you for this excellent reply. I am happy you have outlined the importance of Methanol. Cox suggests to use Methanol as the main component of the DIESEL fuel as well. Cox suggests to make the diesel fuel of 70% Methanol and 30% Ether. Than to mix 70% of this fuel with 30% Castor Oil. I also prefer Methanol. The only reason I am using Kerosene is because I cannot find Methanol around. I have found isopropyl ethanol on the pharmacies but I have never tried this yet.
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 12:55 pm

robot797 wrote:
StevenStanleyBayes wrote:I have been thinking on these questions and I would like to ask you all of your opinions.

1. What happens when the diesel head is replaced by a glow plug head and diesel fuel is used?
2. Will the head provide enough compression without the Teflon protection gasket and the counter piston disk?
3. Will the chamber be of similar size?
4. Assuming the engine starts on compression ignited Ether ( as standard ) can the diesel fuel heat up the glow plug to make the glow plug glow due to the diesel burning and no constant electrical power?
5. What happens when electrical power is constantly present at the glow plug? Will the glow plug constantly glow?
6. Assuming the glow plug would glow, will this help the ignition of Ether and Kerosene? The compression will, of course, continue to be present.
7. Assuming the glow plug glows, can I start the engine with the standard amount of Ether to heat the engine and the glow plug and then switch to a reduced Ether fuel?
8. Can I use an alternative fuel with the glow plug gotten to glow with a standard fuel?
9. Do you have any other ideas on this and related subjects?

1. when you make it glow it runs
2. yes but it cant run or start on its own
3. no it is bigger the teflon disk makes the room realy small
4. no the platium glows with ethanol fapours and not there fapors
5. yes it will glow like a lightbulp and it will do so for a long long time
6. yes as long as it glow the diesel fuel will burn
7. yes but it cant run without power on the glowplug
8. yes i have run a engine on isopropanol mixed with wd40 (runs normal) and straid white-spirit with 30% castor oil (runs realy realy hot)
9. lose the pullies and go for a direct drive or a gearbox


Thanks for these complete answers of the questionnaire. fully realize the glow plug needs either Methanol or Ethanol or other alcohol based fuels or constant power to glow.

Thank you for stressing on how important this is.

I realize a glow plug and Methanol diesel will improve start ability and performance at freezing temperatures.

I realize the engine will not start unless started externally. I hope, however, the engine will start much easier with a glow plug and will sustain the work much easier.

I understand the bigger chamber will allow for more mixture thus the energy of a single combustion will be greater. I hope this will not overheat the engine.

So far, I am happy with all the answers which look like pointing out a glow head on a diesel sounds like a marvellous idea.

I have outlined the advantages and disadvantages of pulleys. I will not get rid of them because they allow reprogrammability and start without a belt. Of course a standard car like transmission with a clutch is the best. I doubt anyone has ever made such and I do not think I can make one easily. In case you know of such, please inform.

Also :

Thank you for this excellent reply. I am happy you have outlined the importance of Methanol. Cox suggests to use Methanol as the main component of the DIESEL fuel as well. Cox suggests to make the diesel fuel of 70% Methanol and 30% Ether. Than to mix 70% of this fuel with 30% Castor Oil. I also prefer Methanol. The only reason I am using Kerosene is because I cannot find Methanol around. I have found isopropyl ethanol on the pharmacies but I have never tried this yet.
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Post  robot797 Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:01 pm

i dont see why you would want a hybrid

i mean the diesel can start with only fuel
a hybrid can only start with fuel and power
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:09 pm

robot797 wrote:i dont see why you would want a hybrid

i mean the diesel can start with only fuel
a hybrid can only start with fuel and power


For now I do not. I may see what I can do with such in the future.

I think I can bring some more energy with a glow plug as well as an easier start.

I do NOT know, however, whether Methanol contains more energy per volume than Kerosene. In case anyone knows, please inform.

Also, in some countries, pure Methanol is very inexpensive becausecause this is made of garbage. More inexpensive than Kerosene.

Again : I agree with you totally. I will use the standard pure diesel engine.
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Post  robot797 Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:12 pm

if you go back to glow you lose a lot of power
a cox diesel has more power then a cox glow
no matter the fuel
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:17 pm

robot797 wrote:if you go back to glow you lose a lot of power
a cox diesel has more power then a cox glow
no matter the fuel


I cannot see how this is possible unless there is a lack of compression because the head does not have the Teflon gasket and the counterpiston but I will consider your word.

I will be happy to know the reason, though. In case anyone knows why, please, inform.
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Post  robot797 Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:22 pm

kerosine/parafine (in holland you can get this as lampoil and it costs 1.50 euro)
has more power but burns slower
the longer burn gives the piston a longer and harder push
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:35 pm

robot797 wrote:kerosine/parafine (in holland you can get this as lampoil and it costs 1.50 euro)
has more power but burns slower
the longer burn gives the piston a longer and harder push


Thanks you for this excellent clarification. I need slow and powerful burn because I doubt the engine can reach high RPM with a load which, obviously, depends on the load.

I will stick to Kerosene.

How much is Ether in Holland? Can I have a ticket to Holland, please? : )
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Post  robot797 Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:42 pm

100ml ether (pharmasutic grade and easy to get) 3.29 euro
casor oil 120ml (pharmasutic grade and easy to get) 3.41
casor oil 1l (engine shop) 11.29


i also have to correct my statement lamp oil is 2.89

so 3 L of fuel is

32.29+11.29+2.89=46.47

per 100 ml that is
1.549

that is i bit more expencive then nitro here
but it does rung longer
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Post  StevenStanleyBayes Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:51 pm

robot797 wrote:100ml ether (pharmasutic grade and easy to get) 3.29 euro
casor oil 120ml (pharmasutic grade and easy to get) 3.41
casor oil 1l (engine shop) 11.29


i also have to correct my statement lamp oil is 2.89

so 3 L of fuel is

32.29+11.29+2.89=46.47

per 100 ml that is
1.549

that is i bit more expencive then nitro here
but it does rung longer


So, when I come to Holland, I have to go to the UK occasionally, to get these big tubes of Ether someone have posted on this topic of the forum and then go back to Holland to get Kerosene and Castor Oil.

Hope the Dutch customs would not suspect drug making and neither will the Dutch mafia. : )

Meanwhile, can you not get less expensive John Deere Starter Fluid or any other Ether based diesel starter fluid for less in Holland?
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Post  robot797 Tue Mar 17, 2015 2:05 pm

weel actualy
quick start spray is not common here and hard to get
a 200ml can (50% ether max) is 7.95
so 100% pure ether for 3.29 is kind of cheap

but i can contact the maker of it to ask if i could but a component for cheap
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