Priority mail and us.....

Nice Looking Kit , Glade it got to you OK !! That seems the way everthing is that's good starts out a really good thing while just getting started and then INC. comes in and helps out   Yeah you think u could copy and save then print those decals  You know what I am saying with todays tech-nollagie u can about do it if you can dream it  Just thinking (I don't know how )   Eric knows you like those decals and are hard to get

I could copy it, but sticking them on would be a problem.  Wonder if this would work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-x-ADHESIVE-PHOTO-PAPER-QUALITY-LABEL-STICKER-PAPER-WHITE-GLOSS-4-x-6/111370337167?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25215%26meid%3D3a9f23856ae04529adbbcf103e07c4ca%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D10628%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D110747128033&rt=nc

Maybe this would be better, all depends on how thick it is and whether it would accept some sort of protective finish.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LD-LD-Glossy-Inkjet-Photo-Sticker-Paper-8-5-X-11-100-pack/311170610800?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25215%26meid%3D9119dbcbeb864a959be2562115b2a0b3%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D10628%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D111370337167&rt=nc

These graphics are all made from laser-printable full-sheet clear adhesive shipping labels. Inkjet prints might possibly "bleed" when a sealer coat is applied.




I had to re-size the images to suit my tiny model.. but you wouldn't have to, since you already have the correct scale artwork. You could just scan it.. print it... and put the original away for safe keeping. There's 3-4 coats of Top Flite crystal clear Lustre-Kote sprayed on over them.


Incidentally.. I have a Sterling P38 kit S-17.. (un-built.. I know you're a P38 guy too!)

Yes, the P-38 my all-time favorite.



Battle scared and judged by the standards shown on this forum, clumsily built. But after many years it’s back together and waiting for a holder and a nice day to go flying. Definitely not a stunter, won’t even do a loop, but looks great doing circles.

That’s a beautiful kit and undamaged box. I would hide it away and find a less pristine example to build.

Don’t you love those Sterling plans. Nary a space wasting paragraph as one thought blends into another. I got to drawing a vertical line when events changed.



BTW I love that "Rare Bear". I researched it when I saw your previous post about it and discovered that it's kitted. Got a cowl and all.

rsv1cox , the water slide is what I used http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=decal+paper&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2632.R2.TR3.TRC2.A0.H2.Xink+jet+decal+paper&_nkw=inkjet+decal+paper&_sacat=171961 it comes in clear and white background easy to use . Definitely want to spray over to fuel proof ! like a DA I painted over mine and it was starting to run away Getback

I wouldn't say it was clumsily built!

Cribbs74 wrote:I wouldn't say it was clumsily built!

Your kindness is appreciated Ron, but look at those engine covers.



Among other things.....

That decal paper looks like a winner Eric. Ordered some.

Cribbs74 wrote:I wouldn't say it was clumsily built!

Definitely NOT! I can't remember if you said you scratch-built it.. or modified a kit?.. but I love it.. and I love that it sports twin Golden Bee's! I'm a reed-valve guy.. and have two GB's myself. They're different in the power-making area though. I posted on another thread here (Killer Golden Bee?) that I recently noticed that one has an .082" venturi "stock".. gold anodized.. I'm thinking it was a later; pre-Black Widow variant.

My Sterling P38 kit I had given to my Dad.. many years ago.. but his last model was a beautiful Sterling C1-kit Monocoupe.. and he doesn't build anymore. He gave the P38 back to me recently. Notice in the open-box photo, that I had added a parts-bag with most of the stuff he would need to complete the model.. less engines. In the mid-90's when I gave him the kit, he had the option of running twin OS FP-S .10's or.15's. At this point.. I could make templates of the kit parts, and scratch-build one. It would be a good candidate for my wing-building jig. I have a pair of early Fox .15's.. but one needs a piston. It would be nice if OS still made the FP-S's... and for the $55.00 they were selling for new in 1994.

Roddie, the LA's or the Fp's are far too much engine for the Sterling P-38. It would go like stink in level laps and then it would crash into the ground once the power cuts. A cinder block would have a better glide ratio. Even the Fox .15's are heavy for that plane but would work superior to the modern .15's. Engines that are anemic like the Gilbert or OK engines or the OS Max .10 are great choices for a twin. They're light and when combined together yield good power. I have one OK .14 for mine here. I tried the Max .10 but the bearers are a bit wide and they just make it. The OK .14 fits terrific. Aside from the worst needles ever made for a model airplane engine, the OK .14 seems to do "OK" on a 7" prop. These engine are generally always on the Bay if that's your thing. They do make good choices for these old models . Ken

Ken Cook wrote:Roddie, the LA's or the Fp's are far too much engine for the Sterling P-38. It would go like stink in level laps and then it would crash into the ground once the power cuts. A cinder block would have a better glide ratio. Even the Fox .15's are heavy for that plane but would work superior to the modern .15's. Engines that are anemic like the Gilbert or OK engines or the OS Max .10 are great choices for a twin. They're light and when combined together yield good power. I have one OK .14 for mine here. I tried the Max .10 but the bearers are a bit wide and they just make it. The OK .14 fits terrific. Aside from the worst needles ever made for a model airplane engine, the OK .14 seems to do "OK" on a 7" prop. These engine are generally always on the Bay if that's your thing. They do make good choices for these old models . Ken

I wonder if kit-bashing a more constant-chord wing would help.. and/or "flaps" for that matter?

Nice (and entertaining) analysis Ken, but what am I missing here Cox guys.  Why wouldn't a pair of Cox 09's or 15's be perfect?

And roddie, kindness abounds here!!!  Yes, scratch built.  Built up wing covered with wet 1/32 sheet. Fuselage a series of squared blocks, hollow, sanded to shape.  Wing loading astronomical but super fun to fly.



If I remember correctly, at one time it had landing gear doors. Probably lost those first flight.

The Cox .09's would be absolutely fabulous. Good power, lightweight, but they won't fit in the stock doublers without making them smaller. Easily done, I wish I could go that route but my plane is already built. The Medallions would be perfect. The .15's would certainly be overkill. The main problem with twins is that they tie up 2 engines. Ken

Ken Cook wrote: The OK .14 fits terrific. Aside from the worst needles ever made for a model airplane engine, the OK .14 seems to do "OK" on a 7" prop.

I've been thinking about the needle valve assemblies made by Texas Timers for the Cubs.  They're cheap and the makers use the Cub as an example of a good conversion.

http://www.texastimers.com/


Rod.