The Holland Hornet is whole again

You might consider switching to a wood prop to decrease chances of bending the crankshaft.

George

That's a nice engine. I've been looking for one to build a FF plane. I'd like to have a one with a tank. Your looks to be in great condition.

Just run the engine, when it breaks then admire it on the shelves. I see no logic in watching it sit there. There's plenty of them still out there. While it does yield some good rpm numbers, modern engines are even superior so just use it. What is typically the rare part is the glow plug itself. Doug Glabreath makes a Nelson head adapter for about $14 and get some Nelson plugs and run that engine. You will see a better run with Nelson plugs and longevity and no need to find stock glowheads which are drying up quickly. Ken

There is a smoothness in design of this engine that I like. The intakes squareness balances the streamlining from the backplate to spinner.

The yellow prop came on the engine. I haven't even wiped the previous owners dust off it yet. I think I will look for a tank, wipe it down with RemOil and look at it for awhile.

Thanks for posting that. Gone up a bit, $22+ now.

I booked it, but don't know if I will join in. Got to rein in this obsession somehow.

Little more than $40.00

Well, I couldn't resist it, dropped a bid on these Holland parts and "won." It was the timer tank that intrigued me.



Question was - am I going to open that package that was stapled some 50/60 years ago. You bet.





I may or may not use it. Seems like it would be really good for free-flight or timed control line flight. Anyone ever use one or something similar?

No never used one, but they are pretty simple. Just depress and when it pops up it cuts the fuel.

I think you can move the clip around to adjust the run. Only seen one demostrated once, so going off of memory.

I see you received the locking bar. Those are hard to find.

Hey guys, its actually the other way, you lift plunger, fill tank, fire it up, set needle and when you're ready to launch you pull retention spring and plunger comes down, closes off bottom of tank that engine draws off of for pre-measured run.

Thanks for the responses.

I will mount the tank and take some pictures. If I do try it, i'm hoping for a good seal between the tank and the engine. Unless it's machined really well it could be a leak problem with only those two screws ensuring tightness.

There was a NIB identical Holland on ebay a week or two back, I gave up when the bidding reached around $133.00. I would have been more inclined to fire up this one had I bought it.

Nice score !! I don't think that's high $ for something that hard to find. Eric

Mark Boesen wrote:Hey guys, its actually the other way, you lift plunger, fill tank, fire it up, set needle and when you're ready to launch you pull retention spring and plunger comes down, closes off bottom of tank that engine draws off of for pre-measured run.

Sounds to me like you can overcome the "timer" part of the tank by simply not letting the plunger down.  For control line you'd have to figure out your internal plumbing to ensure you can draw enough fuel one centrifugal force comes into play.

Rod.
(I'm back )

I guess this card explains the procedure best, it came with the timer tank.



This one is an .051.  I have found two more in .049.  One is missing the spray bar and needle valve assembly, both on order from MECOA.  This other is complete but missing the outer edge of the back plate when the mounting screw goes.  Not a problem as the timer tank frees up a spare back plate.







I'm not sure how the back plate mount goes  (Center of first picture on package opened display).  It has dimples on one side that I believe should dig into a wooden firewall.  I have it backwards in the picture.

rsv1cox wrote: I'm not sure how the back plate mount goes  (Center of first picture on package opened display).  It has dimples on one side that I believe should dig into a wooden firewall.  I have it backwards in the picture.

You are correct. The plate goes behind the firewall and is held in place by the screw in front of the firewall. The dimples dig into the firewall to prevent rotating.

This is used in place of nuts being glued behind the firewall. If you have ever tried to mount the engine and push the nut loose from the firewall so it rattles inside the fuselage you will understand how nice these plates are. :-)

George

Thanks for posting the info sheet, I was going to ask you if you could.
The Hornet is one of my favorite 1/2a engines.

Thanks George & Mark, I'm glad to see that others like these little engines too.

I have become sort of a HH nut with two more on the way. I have a Musciano Cyclone kit that I will build and mount one of them on. I believe the hollow log fuselage will house a small gas tank ok, but positioning it within that confined space will be critical, balance etc.. I'm just so used to hanging a integral tanked Cox out front.



Nice picture Mark. Home built modified Hornet? As I mentioned, a NIB Hornet sold last week on ebay for $138.00. I should have bid if for nothing else than the instructions. I have searched the net for a copy to no avail.. I checked with MECOA thinking they might have a copy as they stock Holland parts, but they don’t. Where did you find those neat decals?

That is a Hornet .051 with the factory two stage carb (high/low speed) much like the two needle venture/carb early Cox engines used.

Those are scans of a swap meet find years ago.