Custom 049 Diesel

Great use of a car crankcase and crank.

That's certainly a cox cylinder. The top pictures are kinda squished I think making the cylinder look thin and long.

Maybe that's it. The fin count was correct just looked long and thin like you mentioned.

He has it for sale here: http://bit.ly/1n2aiIL

I'd be interested in the Olympic, but I've got to replenish some funds. Sucks because I'll be up in Ft. Worth next weekend. Wouldn't even need to ship it!  

The large car cranks run OK. Not speed demons though. They do make good diesel conversions or Texaco engines to swing large props. I have 3 in my collection that I converted and another one in the works.

Picture of the 3 I have built. The top one has a 8cc tank, #8 non SPI cylinder and a 5 fin head.

The middle one has a 8cc stunt tank, #8 non SPI cylinder, muffler and 325 glow head.

The bottom one has a 8cc stunt tank, #1 cylinder, and 1702 head.

I also turn a brass shim to take up the crank endplay and to be able to use a starter without grinding away the crankcase.



Here is a video of one I built with a 8cc tank.

Many thanks for the kind replies.

I'm not sure what is going on with the photos, they definitely don't look right I'll see about getting that fixed.

I do have it listed on eBay, had to pay my property taxes yesterday so need to replenish my funds!
I wasn't looking to promote my auction here, honestly just wanted to share but thanks for the plug!
If I get another 09 prop drive I have enough parts to make another and will run that one.

Jason, nice engines, I like the prop drives. I'm assuming you made them.
I got lucky finding that the 09 drive would work. My original plan was to ream out a drive that had too small
of a hole. When searching through a bag of mixed prop drives I put an 09 drive up to the end of the crank.
I couldn't believe it but it was a perfect fit, pressed on just like any other Cox prop drive does.

I wonder if there are other parts will interchange between different sizes of engines.

The prop drives are .09 that I turned down on the lathe to the same diameter as the crankcase. Makes for nice smooth lines. I usually take ones that are plier marked and turn these down.

Nice! Yours has less mass so probable makes for a bit better performance.
I got the photos straightened out. Had selected the wrong size when getting the html.

The previous comment about performance makes me wonder...does the crank have a drill hole up the center? The heaviest part of the engine, and the largest amount of unalterable rotating mass is the crank shaft.

While I expect this is a fine running engine, I suspect a couple hundred rpm will be lost to the crank. As a diesel this is less important since even more rpm is lost to the larger prop that diesels are typically run with. (although the larger prop does provide more thrust)

Best of luck with the sale, I bid and was promptly outbid. I don't need another engine, but that one is nice.

Phil

The weight of the crank is only one factor in the lower RPMs. The size of the crank is too. The more surface area you have, the more friction you have. However in the case of a diesel, as I said before, it's a great alternative to an HD crank and it gives the old car cases a new use once they've lost their original home. And the extra rotating mass will act somewhat of a flywheel effect and be beneficial to the diesel.

Nice engine Tom.

G.O. Stang wrote:The weight of the crank is only one factor in the lower RPMs. The size of the crank is too. The more surface area you have, the more friction you have. However in the case of a diesel, as I said before, it's a great alternative to an HD crank and it gives the old car cases a new use once they've lost their original home. And the extra rotating mass will act somewhat of a flywheel effect and be beneficial to the diesel.

I believe the mass of the crank does not play any role in the rpm. The mass (according to Newton's law) multiplied by the acceleration produces the force of acceleration provided by the piston rod through the crankpin. (We should rather speak about the engine torque that adds polar acceleration to the rotating mass of the shaft, but it boils down to the same result) Once the engine has accelerated to its peak rpm (and this is only a matter of time, with heavier crank it takes longer) and thus acceleration reaches zero, the force from the piston - translated into torque by the crank pin - will only be used to swing the propeller and balance the friction of the shaft in the crank-casing, which is only a small fraction in the equation..

Here is the 4th one I completed this weekend. Has a #0 unmilled top fin cylinder that doesn't have SPI for the muffler.

Hello,
i have to read that for this engine you use some parts of Cox Buick Riviera tether car crank case and crank shaft.
I have to see in eBay Spain one Cox engine for car, but i don't sure that is the engine that have this same parts.
I need you direct email for i send the photo of this engine, for know of you if is the engine with this parts.

Thanks and Regards
Giuseppe - Italy

email direct: giuseppegallegra@email.it

I have several car cases & cranks, but all the cranks have the tapered nose, not the knurling. Anyone know of a prop driver that will work?


Rod.

Oldenginerod wrote:I have several car cases & cranks, but all the cranks have the tapered nose, not the knurling.  Anyone know of a prop driver that will work?


Rod.

I think that only the crank with the knurling will work with the .09 prop driver.

Giuseppe - Italy