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Post  JPvelo Thu Oct 24, 2013 10:22 am

After breaking the rod on my .051 TD I exchanged the piston/cylinder for a different .051 set. The engine is now a little more difficult to start when cold. The problem comes if it gets any more than slightly flooded when warm, it becomes almost impossible to start. It took forty minutes last week, yesterday I gave up after about that long. When it runs it screams along as good as ever.
Any ideas?

Jim
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Post  SuperDave Thu Oct 24, 2013 10:31 am

JP:

And your fuel tank arrangement?

SD
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Post  JPvelo Thu Oct 24, 2013 11:02 am

SuperDave wrote:JP:

And your fuel tank arrangement?

SD
Bladder, fine thread needle, same setup I've been using for almost a year.

Jim
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Post  SuperDave Thu Oct 24, 2013 11:09 am

Jim:

Have you tried pinching off the bladder, starting the engine on prime then removing tne device you used to irrupt the pressurized flow?

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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Oct 24, 2013 11:55 am

I know you know what you are doing Jim. Your starting procedure would be helpful info
though.

I also assume you have verified correct operation of the battery/glowhead?

The TD can flood very easily under normal tanked running methods. With a bladder it is magnified even more. I have yet to be figure out a way to start one on bladder while holding the plane, flipping the prop and releasing the clamp. I am just not fast enough.

What I do is either fire it off on prime and quickly open the needle or prime and then slowly open the needle until it fires and runs screaming lean at which point I open the needle more and set for optimum launch.

I prefer the first method, but both work and it doesn't take long to get really good at it.

Ron


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Post  pkrankow Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:43 pm

Stock or bored out intake? A bored out intake makes these more prone to flooding, in my experience.

Phil
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Post  JPvelo Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:54 pm

Plug is good, batteries are good. I pinch the fuel line by hand and let go when it fires, starting off prime when cold. The engine goes rich at the end of the flight and floods slightly. It has never been a problem to restart, flip a few times, burn off the flood and let her rip. For some reason with the new cylinder it does not like to restart. Start/restart procedure is the same as I have always done. The only thing that has changed is the piston/cylinder.

Jim
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Oct 24, 2013 2:22 pm

Ahhhh,

Now I see. Sounds like the cylinder is not creating enough vacuum. How low is the compression after it's hot?

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Post  JPvelo Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:50 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Ahhhh,

Now I see. Sounds like the cylinder is not creating enough vacuum. How low is the compression after it's hot?

Didn't think to check that, but I have a suspicion it could be a compression issue.
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Post  roddie Thu Oct 24, 2013 4:56 pm

any cylinder shims involved?
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Post  JPvelo Thu Oct 24, 2013 5:34 pm

roddie wrote:any cylinder shims involved?
No
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Post  Ken Cook Thu Oct 24, 2013 7:13 pm

Jim, I haven't been following the thread but I do recall the old piston failed. Is this a new piston and cylinder? Did you reuse the old head gaskets? Have you tried to flatten the mating surface of the plug on a piece of glass using 400 paper and a bit of oil? What I'm leaning towards is the possibility that the plug keeps coming loose or not sealing properly and this could cause hard starting and light compression. If the old plug is being used, is it up to par. Although it may light, does it show any signs of white deposits on the first coil? I've found that this could also be a contributing factor in hard starts. Another thing to check is the backplate. If that comes loose, you will be certain to have problematic starting issues. Ken
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Post  Paulgibeault Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:53 am

Jim,

Hard (hand) starting (ASSUMING ALL ELSE IS CORRECT), is often a problem of poor piston to cylinder fit. In that case, either a larger replacement piston OR newer piston/cylinder ass'y will be the cure.
I have to assume you've tried a new plug & new properly installed gasket (not rolled or 'crunched' on installation). I'm discounting fuel & most everything else, as you said it runs fast when it runs, that's primarily why I suspect your top end.

Good Luck!

Cheers, Paul

p.s. I may have a .051 replacement if you're stuck...
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Post  JPvelo Fri Oct 25, 2013 7:27 am

Paulgibeault wrote:Jim,

Hard (hand) starting (ASSUMING ALL ELSE IS CORRECT), is often a problem of poor piston to cylinder fit. In that case, either a larger replacement piston OR newer piston/cylinder ass'y will be the cure.  
I have to assume you've tried a new plug & new properly installed gasket (not rolled or 'crunched' on installation). I'm discounting fuel & most everything else, as you said it runs fast when it runs, that's primarily why I suspect your top end.

Good Luck!

Cheers, Paul

p.s.  I may have a .051 replacement if you're stuck...
Pm sent
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Post  balogh Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:12 pm

Not exactly a reply to the flooding thread but maybe interesting for some of TeeDee049/050/051 fans like myself: The fuel nipple on the TeeDee carb is relatively short with a small shoulder that will not safely hold, and more importantly, seal the silicone fuel tube connection. It may thus happen that air will leak into the carb through the untight fuel tube-to-nipple connection. The symptoms are loss of peak engine speed, engine overheating, limited response to needle valve setting, and finally, a lean fuel-air mixture that, if prevails through many flights, will kill the piston/cylindert fit.

I therefore apply a small spring clip around the fuel tube end that presses it to the nipple and prevents air leak-in.

For similar reasons I always pull a silicon tube on the threaded end of the carb where it accommodates the niddle valve as air leak-in will occur here as well.

Took me some time before I diagnosed this issue as the minimum air leak-in at these points is not easy to discover, but will already have a massive impact on the TeeDee performance and longevity.
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Post  RK Flyer Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:27 am

Balogh, I have the same problem on my Tee Dee & I am thinking about soldering on some type of extension for the fuel nipple to connect the line. But before I do this must be a problem with all the Tee Dees so has anyone found a fix for this?

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Post  balogh Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:41 am

One solution is to pull a small dia silicone tube of half inch kength on the nipple that will harden in contact with nitro...like the yellow duesel fuel tube of COX Int'l.http://coxengines.ca/diesel-fuel-line-for-cox-engine-049-051-yellow.html. Then this will function as an extension of the nipple and will hold the nirmal dia fuel tube tight.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:09 am

RK and Balogh, try some of the red fuel line like Brodak sells. It's got a grip like no other and if not removed, gets tighter and tighter with time. Better than the blue silicon line.
http://brodak.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=fuel+line&x=9&y=14

Balogh, I don't know if you can conveniently use Brodak. I wish I could give you some better way to identify this tubing besides the color.

Rusty

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Post  JPvelo Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:15 am

I use the smallest silicon tubing I can find and haven't has any problems.

Jim
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Post  RknRusty Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:21 am

JPvelo wrote:I use the smallest silicon tubing I can find and haven't has any problems.

Jim
Yeah, Jim I didn't think you did. If yours leaked it would be dripping or spewing anyway. I was just posting that for the other two guys. I just learned about the red stuff recently and figured I'd spread the word.

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