RCM wing/fuse jigs

Hey sweet looking jigs. You should edit your post with the web address.

duke.johnson wrote:Hey sweet looking jigs.  You should edit your post with the web address.

Well Duke... here's the deal. The "book" that illustrates these fixtures I built, is one of several; in an "anthology" series that RCM published titled; "R/C MODELER MAGAZINE'S flight training course" with "Don Dewey" being the author... and the original "outline" by Ben B. Strasser. (copyright 1972) containing 34 chapters/239 pgs., covering; basics of R/C aero-modeling, tools/fixtures, set-up of 2 planes; the "RCM Basic Trainer" and the "RCM Advanced Trainer" and basic flight maneuvers.

I also have (by the same title) "Volume 2"... with "Ben Strasser" and "Tom Cone" being the authors. (Copyright 1974) containing 27 chapters/176 pgs., covering; advanced aerobatics almost in entirety. It basically picks up where Vol. 1 leaves off. (400+ pgs. between the 2 volumes)

An inquiry to RCM's webpage does not list any assy. jig plans via their search engine. They "do" list an available book entitled; "Flight Training Course" (2nd edition 304 pgs.) which (by description...) covers the construction of 2 different; more modern aircraft; as well as other subjects, including "building techniques"... I don't know if the "jig" construction articles are included. (see the link below) Roger
https://www.rcmplans.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44&products_id=2161&zenid=07d860da5ae220efc5911103b0b41233

Found an archive/alphabetic listing... scroll down to "R" and look under "RCM" here;

https://www.rcmplans.com/rcmindexes/index-1969-73-1.html

They're both listed... (not together...the "RCM wing jig" is a little further down the page)

Holy smokes, I thought it was going be something easy to post. Sorry.

duke.johnson wrote:Holy smokes, I thought it was going be something easy to post. Sorry.

Hey Duke, I personally enjoy researching topics that interest me... as you have seen; (in several posts/replies...) "I enjoy writing too". I should be more careful, not to get carried away. Some people don't like to read "lengthy" posts.

No apologies needed.
Roger

I don't mind, keep it coming.

That's a nice tool. If you use something like carbon fiber arrow shafts for the dowels, do they ever warp if stored properly?

RknRusty wrote:That's a nice tool. If you use something like carbon fiber arrow shafts for the dowels, do they ever warp if stored properly?

I'd like to try the carbon fiber arrow-shafts for the wing jig... my only experience with carbon-fiber rod; has been with .062" dia. x 12"L. for my RC Trainer's rudder/elev. linkages. Is it "prone" to warping? I didn't think it was. The alum. ones I am very careful with, and they're still straight.

The 1/4" dia. x 36"L. alum. rods is what was recommended back in 1972... (the year that the RCM book containing the plans for the jigs, was published...) This wing jig has a maximum capacity for a 33" wing panel. I've been trying to find a "single" 1/4" dia. Forstner bit for accurately drilling wing-rib stacks. The 1/4" bit only comes in a complete set.

You should have seen me at the "Home Depot"... rolling alum. rods on the floor... to find the straightest pr.!! This reminds me of a story that Dave Cook (N.E.S.T.) told my years ago. He and (I think) Ron Connors found a bunch of old U.S. Army surplus "rafts" that used balsa for floatation. They brought a scale to the store and bought the ones that weighed the least!!!

RknRusty wrote:That's a nice tool. If you use something like carbon fiber arrow shafts for the dowels, do they ever warp if stored properly?

You know Rusty, I was discussing the uses of carbon fiber rod in Jim's F82 twin Mustang thread. It got me to thinking... Why not make a sm. version of the wing jig using them? possibly the 3mm. (1/8" dia.) x 24"L. 2 pcs. Rib templates could have 1/8" locator-holes for the rods... and at 22" per panel, would be perfect for our smaller aircraft.

Afraid of ordering online? I get that the shipping can be painful sometimes...

http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/2020128/2751/114-FORSTNER-BIT.ASPX?refcode=10INGOPB&gclid=CJzR_ILc3bkCFQkSMwod5kUA3g

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FB-001-4-Inch-Shank-Forstner/dp/B00004RK4N/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379808726&sr=8-1&keywords=forstner+bit+1%2F4

Probably a Fastenal nearby if you rather...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products;jsessionid=ffyCS22LYk7T97V3YnvrJ1l0mc2hGRCyLJKGD7SHnQTnKWnK92xQ!-1636193790!-1485307644?term=forstner&searchMode=

Phil

pkrankow wrote:Afraid of ordering online?  I get that the shipping can be painful sometimes...

http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/2020128/2751/114-FORSTNER-BIT.ASPX?refcode=10INGOPB&gclid=CJzR_ILc3bkCFQkSMwod5kUA3g

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FB-001-4-Inch-Shank-Forstner/dp/B00004RK4N/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379808726&sr=8-1&keywords=forstner+bit+1%2F4

Probably a Fastenal nearby if you rather...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products;jsessionid=ffyCS22LYk7T97V3YnvrJ1l0mc2hGRCyLJKGD7SHnQTnKWnK92xQ!-1636193790!-1485307644?term=forstner&searchMode=

Phil

Thanks Phil, I guess I haven't put that "Forstner bit" near the top of my priority list. One of your links listed one for $5.00 which is cheap. I actually like ordering hobby items on line. My last recent on-line purchases were for model stuff.

When you scratch build... (and I figure that you do...) how do you go about building "your" built-up wings?

My last kit I used arrow shafts as a jig. I am planning on ordering some drill rod to use instead of the arrow shafts in the future.

I haven't jigged any of my scratch builds. The upcoming DLG glider I am planning (Mimi) is unjiggable, because the wing is pretty thin.

On previous scratch builds I pinned the TE tight and straighten the LE, glue the LE first

I have a forstner bit in 1/4 inch from a set I purchased. I needed the other sizes, so I haven't used it yet. I plan to do more scratch builds. I have a list of planes I want to build, so a jig is in order.

Phil

pkrankow wrote:My last kit I used arrow shafts as a jig.  I am planning on ordering some drill rod to use instead of the arrow shafts in the future.

I haven't jigged any of my scratch builds.  The upcoming DLG glider I am planning (Mimi) is unjiggable, because the wing is pretty thin.  

On previous scratch builds I pinned the TE tight and straighten the LE, glue the LE first

I have a forstner bit in 1/4 inch from a set I purchased.  I needed the other sizes, so I haven't used it yet.  I plan to do more scratch builds.  I have a list of planes I want to build, so a jig is in order.

Phil

Hey Phil, any progress on putting a wing jig together yet? I still haven't obtained a 1/4" Forstner bit.. but while on Cape Cod last weekend, I was in a large hardware store that a great tool department. I picked up a couple brad-point drills. a 1/4" and a 1/8".



I want to build a smaller jig that uses 1/8" diameter rods. Drill-rods 24" long x2 would be my choice. The RCM style jig uses 2 end-blocks with a "stop" for the front rod to locate.. and a spreader-clamp to secure both rods to the end-blocks. The clamping force provides lateral support of the rods.. so there's no downward bowing. We could make the end-blocks from smaller 3/4" square-stock.. hardwood.. or aluminum (if you had it). 6" long blocks would be plenty long enough for the rod-spacing in a small wing-rib.

You should drill mounting holes in the end-blocks.. and countersink for wood-screw mounting on a flat base-board... which is essential. A nice thing about the RCM design, is that it's portable. When not in use.. the rods can be stowed in a cardboard tube with your other rod/dowel stock, and the two end-block/clamp assemblies on a self or in a drawer.

I made a table-insert for my scroll-saw. Not that it will be handy for cutting through a rib-stack.. but it's nice for cutting small parts, and not having them break-off and fall through the larger hole in the factory insert. You need to cut a T-slot in the center, for the blade/pins to pass through.

Hey All! I was drifting thru the Outerzone plan listing site and found the RCM wing jig....so for all of you who don't have access to a 1967 magazine....here you go:

RCM Wing Jig - Note this is not a full-size plan. This is not a plan at all. This is an article describing in detail how to build a simple wing jig - as requested in the Wanted page. Quote: - "Here is a wing jig that you can make in 30 minutes at a cost of under $2.00 and which will allow you to build perfect wings in half the time of conventional construction ...I believe that wings built on this jig in the manner described are as straight and warp free as any foam wing, have skins that will not loosen with age and are significantly lighter, with no sacrifice to strength. Help stamp out foam wings, start a built-up wing today!" Direct submission to Outerzone.

Marleysky wrote:Hey All!  I was drifting thru the Outerzone plan listing site and found the RCM wing jig....so for all of you who don't have access to a 1967 magazine....here you go:

RCM Wing Jig - Note this is not a full-size plan. This is not a plan at all. This is an article describing in detail how to build a simple wing jig - as requested in the Wanted page. Quote: - "Here is a wing jig that you can make in 30 minutes at a cost of under $2.00 and which will allow you to build perfect wings in half the time of conventional construction ...I believe that wings built on this jig in the manner described are as straight and warp free as any foam wing, have skins that will not loosen with age and are significantly lighter, with no sacrifice to strength. Help stamp out foam wings, start a built-up wing today!" Direct submission to Outerzone.

I can tell you that the RCM wing-jig design builds a LOT faster than their fuse-jig does........  but then again; it takes me longer to build anything... than it does anyone else.

A smaller version of this wing-jig would be fairly compact; depending on whether you want to build separate "panels" (having dihedral for instance).. or whether you want the jig to accommodate a full-span frame.  Either way.. when disassembled for storage; the jig takes up very little space. The most important thing, is to store the two "rods" in a safe place where they wont get bent. If you decide to build this style wing-jig; check the rods before you use/buy them; for straightness.. by rolling them on a smooth flat surface. Don't use a rod that is even slightly bent.

I used 1/4" (6mm) diameter solid-aluminum rods for my large wing-jig.. (shown at the beginning of this thread) but a smaller version that I'd like to build would use 1/8" (3mm) diameter rods of either steel or carbon fiber. These would accommodate a very thin airfoil section if desired. As long as the rod-holes in the ribs are uniform (drilled in a "stack" using a drill having the rod's diameter).. and the leading edges of the ribs all line-up with each other; then they will all have the same incidence during assembly as well as even leading-edge attachment points. A "jig-block" can be used between rib-stations for squaring-up as well as establishing the required spacing.

I haven't built anything in a while Roddie. A proper wing jig is on the list... still.
Phil

pkrankow wrote:I haven't built anything in a while Roddie.  A proper wing jig is on the list... still.
Phil

Phil, you're still a new "daddy"... so I can certainly understand where your priorities need to be! A "list" is a start!

I have 2 ready to cover. They are painted and everything.  Been sitting like this for MONTHS now...

Funny thing rattle cans take about 10 minutes per day, yet doing a wing in monokote takes a 2+ hour undisturbed time slot!

1 year in a couple weeks for the younger, 7 in a couple days for the older.

Phil

I like that idea Marleysky anything to make it easier , just read and printed it out may be able to pick up the rods today / have the wood just need to cut . Got a couple plane wings I need to get started on soon . Thanks ,Eric

RknRusty wrote:That's a nice tool. If you use something like carbon fiber arrow shafts for the dowels, do they ever warp if stored properly?

  Got me some old arrows form a good friend , Carbon ones I will cut to as long as I can and make a long needed RCM Jig Looks like 24" is all I am going to get , I searched for the alumn. dowel ,and our state don't carry  such a animal ?!?!?! if they did it would be $$$$$ so I 'll deal with what I can get and its FREE , I got hard wood

getback wrote:

RknRusty wrote:That's a nice tool. If you use something like carbon fiber arrow shafts for the dowels, do they ever warp if stored properly?

  Got me some old arrows form a good friend , Carbon ones I will cut to as long as I can and make a long needed RCM Jig Looks like 24" is all I am going to get , I searched for the alumn. dowel ,and our state don't carry  such a animal ?!?!?!  if they did it would be $$$$$ so I 'll deal with what I can get and its FREE , I got hard wood

Even if you lose a couple inches off the "24" with the two hardwood end-blocks.. it will still permit building a 20 some-odd inch "panel".. (x2 panels; builds a 40 some-odd inch wing..) I got my 1/4" solid aluminum rods at either "Lowe's" or "Home Depot" in the hardware dept. (where they stock the threaded-rod and angle-stock) You'll be fine with the arrow shafts though. When they're "clamped-down" to the end-blocks, they'll be good and rigid. Another option if you want longer rods.. is to use fiberglass snow-plow markers/reflectors that you stake in the ground along the driveway.. and they're cheap too!