CA glue and nitro?

RknRusty wrote:It's my understanding that fuel will debond the CA. I don't know about exhaust goo. Castor alone probably won't bother it, but the synthetic oil might.

what about epoxy? how would you know what one to use?

Epoxy is strong and more resistant to vibrations too, but you'll need to have overlapping parts so it has something to bond to. And you should rough up the area where the glue will be applied.

Two part 30 minute is my favorite general purpose epoxy. It gives you plenty of time to get your parts positioned and time to clean up. Before I start working with it, I always soak a rag with denatured alcohol for cleaning around the joint and my fingers too. I use Great Planes brand 30 minute, but there are lots of good brands. Get some mixing cups with measuring marks on the side. Equal parts of each mix are essential to making a good bond, and mix very thoroughly.

CA is not 100% fuel proof, exhaust oil residue will not hurt it directly, making a fuel tank using CA is not a good idea...problem is CA does not bond that well to some plastics and oil will likely get under the glue and separate it. i'd look at some of the new plastic glues that have come on the market the last 2-3 years.

Devcon plastic welder II has some really good reviews.

Ron

yep, i've heard of that. Here's another:

http://www.supergluecorp.com/pacer-industrial/special-plastic-bonders/plastic-fuse

Thanks guy's I have some 2 part gorilla glue epoxy I will look at

Well I CA glued it down then I went ahead and drilled 2 small holes in the part and put a screw and nut on to make sure even if the glue debonds it will still hold the part on that is used to hold the antenna tube.


all RC equipment now hooked up .... antenna holder worked out great!

Looks good and professional. It's not at all what I was trying to imagine you might be doing.

RknRusty wrote:Looks good and professional. It's not at all what I was trying to imagine you might be doing.

Thanks since I got you here maybe you can help me out ... I break in normal RC nitro motors with running them rich and so forth... so what I am asking is how do you go about breaking in a .049 any standard method?

Thanks

Typical Cox .049 do NOT need any serious break in for NORMAL use... fire it and run the car, boat or airplane

That said for best life span a modest break in with good fuel and a few heat cool cycles seems to give best long life potential

Cox motors prefer high Castor oil content and will run OK on about any nitro...My experience is 25% nitro and 20%~25% oil is best...others here will claim 10% nitro and 10% oil is good enough and they will not be wrong... The Cox .049 is intended to be super user friendly and has a very wide range of acceptable fuels

I am in the camp that sez heat cycling is better than long rich runs.... Breaking in mostly relates to properly mating the piston to cylinder....a long rich run seems to me to produce too much VARNISH from the Castor Oil and does not really bring the piston Cylinder pair up to full operating temp so metal on metal wear can burnish the parts to a conforming dimension

The truth is both methods are equally valid as we all have engines that wore out in ten hours and others that lasted from manufacture to present day with hundreds of hours of use

So I say just fuel it up and use it...break in is a exercise for old men with nothing better to do

VERY HOT VERY LEAN and TOO LITTLE OIL are the recipes for short engine life no matter .049 CI or 409 CI

Found this stuff should work like a charm!
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm






Seal-All® —

Gas & Oil-Resistant Adhesive

The contact adhesive and sealant that's the Mechanic's Choice. Seal-all adheres with superior strength to all substrates and materials except paper, cardboard and Styrofoam™. In a class of its own, the "repair-kit-in-a- tube” is ideal for automotive and garage repairs. Available in 2.0 and 1.0 fl oz carded packaging.
• Practical: Seal-All is resistant to gasoline, oil, paint thinner, and most solvents.
Seal-All is also water resistant immediately upon application.• Thin Formula: Seal-All is a thin adhesive.• Quick Dry: Perfect for all your craft needs. Sets in 2-3 minutes.
Fully cures in 2-6 hours.• Waterproof: Use to decorate craft projects in and around water.• Paintable: Paint over for UV-resistance.
Seal-All Uses
• Distributor caps, interior panels, radiators, gaskets, transmission carburetor
floats, body and trunk leaks, battery cables and terminals, generators, tools,
and much more. • Repair and maintain oil pans, gasoline tanks, oil lines, golf club grips, fletching
arrows, fishing rod tips and guides, tents, canoes, boats, outboard motors,
fishing lures, woodworking, model kits, glass, china, crockery, leather, metal,
porcelain, fiberglass, plastics, ornaments, figurines, linoleum, oilcloth, furniture,
knobs and drawers, screens, tile, plumbing, gutters, and much.

Sounds good although I'd be a little worried about the weight when building smaller models.