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"Cox TD09 R/C Beast of Burden featuring Kamtechnik head and DIY metallic fuel nipple"



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Post  ebeneezer Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:59 am

Hi, just putting the finishing touches to my PeeWee powered Gulliver. This is my first I/C powered model since I was a schoolboy. Can someone advise me on what fuelproofer I should use here in the U.K..

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Post  RknRusty Wed Mar 06, 2013 11:18 am

Have you painted the wood at all yet? If not, I don't know if Rustoleum spray enamel is available in England, but it's very fuel resistant as long as you let it cure for a week. I use the Automotive if I can get it, but I don't know if that's better or not. The lighter colors are said to be somewhat more fuel resistant than the darker colors, but they've worked just fine for me too. The metallic colors are NOT fuel resistant. Castor goo doesn't bother it much at all. The same goes for Krylon brand spray enamel paints. Maybe someone in the UK can recommend equivalent brands.

If I have a new model, I usually seal the firewall and vicinity with 30 or 60 minute epoxy, thinned with acetone so it can be brushed on. It may leave a bit of a wavy finish if you lay it on thick, but it's impenetrable to fresh nitromethane and alcohol. It's too heavy to do the rest of the plane with though.

The spray paint looks best on balsa and soaks up less paint if you spray on some light gray Rustoleum automotive primer and lightly sand it before putting the colors on. For added protection I usually use Top Flite Lustrekote clear gloss. Wait until the paint is fully cured before applying the clear. It's heavy too, so sometimes I only spray the front end. On areas that you don't use it, you'll see some faint color come off on your alcohol rag during your post flight cleanup. But it still looks good and so far I've never rubbed all the way through it. I hear the Rustoleum clear is just as good too, but never tried it. Only do light coats of clear until the last glassy coat, or it may craze the paint, making it bubble up. Seal the water slide decals with it too, but be even lighter handed and let it dry fully before the final coat.

Just keep in mind, go slow and be patient so it takes less paint weight to get that pretty finish.

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Post  ebeneezer Thu Mar 07, 2013 2:47 am

Thanks for all that, now copied to my modeling folder. Unfortunately I've already used colored dope onto tissue. I wanted an authentic vintage look.

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Post  ian1954 Thu Mar 07, 2013 4:40 am

Like me, you probably remember Humbrol Fuel Proofer - now no longer available!

However, there is

http://www.hobbystores.co.uk/default.asp?WPG=HOB_HomePage1&itemid=S-SE26A

and this

http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=28006

http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/list.php?ExpandRef=H103&subcat=138&cat=Dope - Sealer - Thinners&Navmain=Paints, Dope, Brushes#H103

Matt and gloss finishes.

The last thing I fuel proofed was with Humbrol Fuel Proofer - I had a large tin which lasted years so I cannot say whether or not the above works. It does seem easier than epoxy/alcohol mixes.
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Post  RknRusty Thu Mar 07, 2013 6:30 am

I've read a lot of guys that say they use automotive clearcoat, so maybe one last coating of that is all you need. If there's a body shop nearby, maybe they would let you have a pint for a couple of quid.

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Post  ian1954 Thu Mar 07, 2013 7:03 am

There are two main types of clear coat.

Urethane Clearcoat and Acrylic Lacquer Clearcoat.

Most of the cars in the UK use the acrylic clearcoat and I doubt this will survive hot glo fuel.

The urethane clear coat is a two part mix and would be much more resilient.
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Post  pkrankow Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:09 am

I thought DOPE was already fuel proof!

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Post  fredvon4 Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:41 am

Not all DOPE is dope...

The first coats for sealing balsa and adhering tissue/silk is usually Nitrate dope... not hot fuel proof

Top color or clear coats usually are Butyrate dope that is fuel proof

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Post  pkrankow Thu Mar 07, 2013 9:08 am

fredvon4 wrote:Not all DOPE is dope...

The first coats for sealing balsa and adhering tissue/silk is usually Nitrate dope... not hot fuel proof

Top color or clear coats usually are Butyrate dope that is fuel proof

I learned something new today.

There is clear butyrate dope that is fuel proof available (SIG, Brodak, Wicks... via Google.)...don't know about the availability in the UK but I am sure it can be had.

Phil
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