Seized Tee Dee .15 New

I would echo what Mud said if you never plan to take it out of the package. Having said that, personally, I like to free up all my engines new or not.

A little heat will allow you to free the engine and then you can take it apart from there. If you are going to take it apart partially, might as well take apart the whole engine and clean it properly. It is a service we offer, if you would like this engine done as well.

Matt

Soaking the engine in original fuel wont do anything? Heat on a NIB motor? Im on the fence ...Agree with Mud on that one but it is nice to have them work as they should.... Im not intending on running any of my engines but having them work as they should is only proper in my books? So in essense...A seized NIB is still worth just as much? Lew

If it's seized, it makes me question if it's truly NIB...

ZACATTACK wrote:Soaking the engine in original fuel wont do anything? Heat on a NIB motor? Im on the fence ...Agree with Mud on that one but it is nice to have them work as they should.... Im not intending on running any of my engines but having them work as they should is only proper in my books? So in essense...A seized NIB is still worth just as much? Lew

I usually use heat, so it will turn over, then take it apart and clean. Fuel is a good option sometimes, but if it has really been sitting for a while it may not do the trick.

WingingIt74 wrote:If it's seized, it makes me question if it's truly NIB...

A fair question Travis, especially if one bought an engine from eBay. However, I have come across a lot of engines that are new and seized. This is usually due to the hardening of the original lubricant Cox used when assembling the engines. Happens a lot actually. Several factors may increase this such as time, temperature, ect.

Matt

Just soaked it fuel for 20 mins as I have been typing and all is well ...It has tons of compression. It is not from Ebay, it comes from a friend who is a collector and unavailable at the moment, you can question whether this engine was new or not, but in defense of my collection, if you seen this engine in front of you, in your hands, you would know exactly what I'm saying and talking about.Anyway, I think it's never been out of the package since new, so when my friend says it's NIB...it's NIB and may be seized!!Im happy again!!...Should I use some after run oil now?..really dont need to take it apart now do I?. Blow out the fuel with compressed air?THANKS!! The prop screw had a hard time coming out aswell...the threads on the end that were mated with the drive plate have a white looking residue on them. I guess it is from the factory lubricant getting gummed up.

ZACATTACK wrote:Just soaked it fuel for 20 mins as I have been typing and all is well ...It has tons of compression. It is not from Ebay, it comes from a friend who is a collector and unavailable at the moment, you can question whether this engine was new or not, but in defense of my collection, if you seen this engine in front of you, in your hands, you would know exactly what I'm saying and talking about.Anyway, I think it's never been out of the package since new, so when my friend says it's NIB...it's NIB and may be seized!!Im happy again!!...Should I use some after run oil now?..really dont need to take it apart now do I?. Blow out the fuel with compressed air?THANKS!! The prop screw had a hard time coming out aswell...the threads on the end that were mated with the drive plate have a white looking residue on them. I guess it is from the factory lubricant getting gummed up.

Yes, factory residue is usually an issue when the engines sit for log periods of time. If you do not take the entire engine apart it may seize up again at some point since the fuel has castor in it.

Matt

Glad you got'er freed up.

What to use to free up an engine is like what hinge to use on your stunter, there's several ways to go and most don't really make a big difference as often they accomplish the same things.

However there are a few things I feel compelled to harp upon:

Don't let a engine soak in fuel for a long time, fuel contains nitro and alcohol, alcohol will absorb moisture, moisture and nitro are corrosive to aluminum. Much like brake fluid, it works great for quick cleans but it can really mess up a engine.

When disassembling a engine always use heat, but on a Tee Dee you got to be care of the plastic. And yes, most 45 year old NIB engines will be stuck.

I would lube it really good with some oil (another debate) but be careful you don't get it on the box...

I used heat for the first time last night... at first it didn't work until it soaked in. Works very well for a super seized engine.

If you wash it in denatured alcohol you can displace the bulk of the castor oil. Then follow up with a petroleum oil, like 3in1 or after run oil.

It will probably gum up again in 10+years.

Put it on paper towel until you are sure the oil won't transfer. This may take several days to make sure.

Phil

Dont use 3in1 oil at all. It will evaproate and leave a glue like substance behind and the motor will be stuck again. I had to go through 150 engines because of the 3in1 glue. Lots of time wasted when you have to completly break down a 4 stroke engine and clean in denatured alcohol to remove the glue then re-assemble again. Most times I had to make new gaskets which I cut by hand on the larger engines.

I use 2 cycle engine oil to lube all of my engines big and small. Never had an issue with it at all so far after 2 years of storage they are all free yet.

Also do not place the engine back in the package with any fuel left behind. It will stain the printed cardboard insert and really de-value your investment. Also any added oil will seep out the front of the crankshaft area and leak out staining your cardboard insert. A stained cardboard insert can subtract $100 on the value of a rare engine instantly.

You should have just used heat to free it up if you wanted to turn it.

Restoring and cleaning engines is the best part of the hobby. Can't believe you are going to outsource that! I get board and I buy engines just to fix them up for something to do.

I never knew 3in1 turned to glue on its own in engines. I have not had problems with it in the past in that manner, and I use it on a lot of things, although not frequently on engines.

Phil

I use this stuff. Have used it for years. It's a paraffin based turbine oil that is non-gumming.

I thought I was the only one until I saw all the CL guys had it in their flight boxes.

Yup, agree.
Bob

Jason_WI wrote:Dont use 3in1 oil at all. It will evaproate and leave a glue like substance behind and the motor will be stuck again. I had to go through 150 engines because of the 3in1 glue. Lots of time wasted when you have to completly break down a 4 stroke engine and clean in denatured alcohol to remove the glue then re-assemble again. Most times I had to make new gaskets which I cut by hand on the larger engines.

I use 2 cycle engine oil to lube all of my engines big and small. Never had an issue with it at all so far after 2 years of storage they are all free yet.

Also do not place the engine back in the package with any fuel left behind. It will stain the printed cardboard insert and really de-value your investment. Also any added oil will seep out the front of the crankshaft area and leak out staining your cardboard insert. A stained cardboard insert can subtract $100 on the value of a rare engine instantly.

You should have just used heat to free it up if you wanted to turn it.

Restoring and cleaning engines is the best part of the hobby. Can't believe you are going to outsource that! I get board and I buy engines just to fix them up for something to do.

Money I got..Time I dont Jason!!...If I were to heat this engine up I would probably melt the plastic housing knowing me!! What I saying is I don't trust myself...When I don't trust myself with something, I give the task at hand to people who know what there doing and sleep good at night, I'm a little poorer the next morning but at least I got a good night sleep.
Lew

Lew,

I find a heat gun works best. However like you mentioned there is a risk of melting the plastic. You could always cover the carb body with a rag to protect it. Just a thought.

Monokote heat gun works the best and there is no risk to melting anything with that. I heat gun yes you could melt a metal backplate with a good one but not with the monokote heat gun.

Jason

I have one of those too Jason, the trimming iron,the regular iron...I have a little RC shop in the basement,I wreck stuff all the time.....My Dumbass put a $4000 Jet in the tarmac before winter!! Im not wrecking my engine collection!! Lots of guys in here, including yourself, that would be more then happy to do my dirty work, make a couple bucks with work that I dont trust myself with. If I get another new engine in, NIB wont turn...I'm leaving that way!!

Lew

Jason_WI wrote:Monokote heat gun works the best and there is no risk to melting anything with that. I heat gun yes you could melt a metal backplate with a good one but not with the monokote heat gun.

Jason

I should have been more specific.... Yeah the monocote one not the one you use on heatshrink for cables.